Rome, Italy Report of what it's like to live there - 08/14/10
Personal Experiences from Rome, Italy
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No. Europe and Africa (2 previous tours)
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Washington, DCIts about a 9 hour non-stop overnight flight from Dulles.
3. How long have you lived here?
2009 - present
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Government, US Embassy
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Apartments. Old and small in the center of Rome, near the Embassy. Old and a little larger as you go out. Not anything to write home about--typical European lack of storage or counter space, and doors to every room and hall. Tend to be dark and chopped up. With marble floors, crown molding, and high ceilings.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Everything is expensive here. But, between the commissary and the local stores, you can get almost anything. The hardest part is getting to the local stores when they're open and then packing your groceries home--because you usually can't park by the store and end up walking to and from. It takes some organization. We often order things from amazon, just so we don't have to fight it.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Carpets. The apartments have wood and marble floors that are cold and noisy. I'd like to buy carpets for the people upstairs, too.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
You can find pizza, panini, and pasta to your hearts content. You can get lunch for 6-10 euro or spend 30-40 if you go upscale.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Flies and mosquitoes. Homes don't have screens on their windows and doors in Europe.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
DPO or pouch.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
We have someone come in twice/week for about 10 euro/hour.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
The embassy has a fitness center. Others have outside memberships, so I know they're available.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Be cautious. We prefer cash and many places outside the main tourist areas just don't take credit cards.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Yes.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Yes.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Basics are important. The Italians love it when you try.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Getting anywhere. Walking through cobblestones, potholes, debris, broken sidewalks, and deteriorating roads is hard enough for the able-bodied. Sidewalks are also covered with urine and feces of various species and you wouldn't want to roll a wheelchair back into your home after an outing without first sanitizing it.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Great public transportation, although if you're out in the Cassia area, it can take an hour to get into the Embassy. We drive the 3 miles and it takes us about 30-40 minutes.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
The roads here are narrow, the traffic makes them worse, and then people double, triple park or vertically park their little cars which makes just getting down the street a workout in spacial perception and driving skills. Even though we have underground parking, it takes about 10 minutes to jockey our car in and out of the ridiculously tight space. Bring a small car that you don't mind getting dinged, scraped up, but that would be safe in a collision.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes. Its not too bad -- once it gets set up -- which can take quite a while. The billing is loony, so I haven't a very good idea of what it costs per month, but I'm okay with what we pay. Ours includes 1000 minutes of phone calls to the US for 5 euro, SKY TV, and internet.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
The embassy provides them. You can also buy pre-paid fairly cheaply.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No.
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Yes. But unless you live close to one of the big parks (Villa Borghese or Villa Ada) you might not have any green space for your dog. We go about 6 blocks to the nearest grass. Our dogs have begun to be comfortable eliminating on the concrete, but we think it's gross. Inner city living isn't great for dogs.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Not unless they're fluent in Italian. Many of the local staff positions at the embassy require fluent Italian, which usually leaves out the spouses.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
More formal than in the US. Ties at work for men, dresses or suits for ladies. You'll notice, however, that women dress in a more tight, low cut and suggestive style than Americans are used to.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Pickpockets, home burglaries. The Italian police just arrested a band of Romanian acrobats who were burgarizing apartments--using scaffolding and railings to ascend up the buildings!
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
I think its up to Western standards, but you have to watch where you go. Check with the health unit for referrals.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Unhealthy. There are lots of pollens in the air, dust, and garbage. The Health Unit dispenses Zyrtek and Sudafed for whatever ailment you have.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Unbearably hot and humid in the summer. Cold, damp and windy in the winter. Spring and Fall are nice.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
I've heard they aren't the greatest, but don't have personal experience with the schools.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Yes, I've heard of several families who travel all over Europe to their kids' sporting events, in particular soccer and wrestling.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Huge! I can't believe how many of the local staff at the embassy are Americans living in Rome. Plus, the embassy itself is pretty big.
2. Morale among expats:
The Americans who live here permanently love it. Some of the diplomats posted here love it. Others are curtailing to anywhere they can, just to get out of here. If you're not into inner-city living, you might have a hard time. Its noisy, dirty, smelly, decaying and the driving is insane -- and Romans can be quite rude. On the other hand, I love the people I work with and know personally. It will be heart-wrenching to leave them.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Not a lot of entertaining. It's a very dispersed group.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
I think this is a good place if you are into nightlife, be it singles or couples. I can't imagine having kids here. Restaurants don't open for dinner until 7:30 or 8:00 pm. You can't drive anywhere quickly because the traffic is brutal and to find parking is a miracle, so hauling your kids to activities would be excruciating.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
By count, I'd say its an excellent place.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Not that I'm aware of.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Going for a Sunday drive and discovering ancient places by accident.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
It's Italy--ruins, agriturismos, olive orchards, vineyards and winetasting. Lining up at the beach if you're into the crowds.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
All the Italian souvenirs and products you want--pottery, Murano glass, olive oil, wine, etc.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Italy survives on tourism. You can be a tourist and never run out of places to go.
11. Can you save money?
No. We get COLA (currently at 50%), but it goes pretty fast on groceries, gas, internet.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
No. We're just not the European life-style types.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
big car, lawnmower, gardening tools, outside toys.
3. But don't forget your:
comfortable walking shoes, GPS, comfy slippers to wear in the house (like Crocs) so you can take your shoes off at the door, mosquito repellant, bookshelves, carpets, etc.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
6. Do you have any other comments?
This review may sound negative, but we're just not the right people for this place. Some of my colleagues love it and extend their tours. Many others are back for a second tour. It just depends on what you like.
