Rome, Italy Report of what it's like to live there - 05/08/13
Personal Experiences from Rome, Italy
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No. Madrid, Spain; Quito, Ecuador; Sao Paolo and Salvador da Bahia, Brazil; Mexico City Federal District, Mexico.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
WDC: approx. 9 hours direct
3. How long have you lived here?
5 years.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Family.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
You get what you pay for. Think big-city, US prices (i.e., high costs per square foot to live in the historic center, cheaper the farther you get from downtown). During rush hour, from one end of the city to the next could be a two-hour commute. In non-rush hour, the same distance could be covered in, say, 20 minutes.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
The farther from the historic center you get, the larger and slightly less expensive the grocery stores get. Generally, groceries and household items cost more than in the US. There is a large assortment of outdoor markets available everywhere which sell fresh produce and small household items at relatively inexpensive prices. Fruits and vegetables are seasonal, so don't expect to find all produce at all times, and if you do, expect to pay dearly out of season.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
I can't think of anything you can't get locally or online via amazon.com or ebay or the like.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
McDonald's and Burger King have US-comparable prices. There are many Italian pizza and panini places, both fast-food and restaurant-quality, where you can expect to pay between €10-€40. There are decent Japanese, Chinese, Indian, Vietnamese, Asian fusion, etc., available at prices ranging from €20-€50 per person.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
The mosquitoes, especially in locations near the Tiber river, are vicious. Otherwise, there are very few insects.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Local post offices and packaging services similar to FedEx are plentiful. Expect long lines at the post office.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Readily available at fairly high costs (€8-€10 per hour if hired without a contract, €700-€1200 per month if hired with a contract, including taxes, fees and other official contributions).
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There are plenty of small and mid-sized gyms at decent prices, some running trails, and bike rentals around the city.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Cash still rules. ATMs are plentiful but generally have high fees associated with them. Credit cards are widely accepted for purchases larger than €10 (low-cost purchases are often impossible without cash), but smaller stores often don't accept them at all.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Yes. Mostly Roman Catholic and the like. Not sure of other denominations.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Newspaper stands are all over the city on every corner, and most have a few English-language publications. Expect to pay between €3-€7 for each.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
The more you know, the better. A smile goes a long, long way.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Many! Rome is full of cobblestoned streets and uneven or broken sidewalks which are usually blocked by motorcycles, cars, dog poop, construction sites, restaurants that set up tables willy-nilly outside their establishment, etc. Handicap/stroller ramps are largely non-existent, and when they do exist they are often blocked or broken. Often, if a building has an elevator (not a given!), it is usually small and cramped (certainly no room for a wheelchair or stroller). Again, where the physical facility is missing, Italians are generally willing to help a person in need.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Yes and yes.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Small, safe, and already-dinged is best. Otherwise, be prepared to circle the block a few times to find a parking spot and to find a scratch or two upon your return. Double and triple and vertical parking is common! Be prepared to be blocked in in the busiest places. The roads are often terrible (broken, filled with debris, closed off, full of potholes, etc.) but there are many parking garages that are generally safe. And they generally cost much less than in , say, NYC, Boston or Washington (€1-€2 per hour!)
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Fairly high-speed internet services are available at prices similar to those in the US and are usually offered in package deals (TV-phone-internet) by the provider.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
All the latest makes and models are available, accompanied by a wide range of service providers at reasonable prices both by fixed and pre-paid contracts.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No.
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Italians love their animals and, as in many European cities, dogs can go almost anywhere! Vets are available everywhere and generally offer good care. Boarding is generally available mostly in private homes and one-on-one services.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Unemployment is currently around 35%, so adjust your expectations accordingly. The US Embassy has a dedicated Global Employment Advisor who has been known to be helpful to spouses of US employers. To work on the local economy you must have fluent Italian, otherwise the chances of finding a job are slim to non-existent.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
At work, suit and tie for men, suit or professional separates for women. In general, the code in public is a bit more formal than in the US, and the more well dressed you are (and the better your shoes!), the better you'll be treated everywhere (think Julia Roberts in PRETTY WOMAN). Women tend to be much more revealing and/or clad in tighter clothes and higher heels at work than in the US.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
As in any major city, you don't leave your belongings unattended! Muggings and personal assaults are fairly rare, put petty theft/pick-pocketings and home break-ins in the more affluent neighborhoods are not uncommon.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
No major health concerns to speak of. Medical care is readily available and good. The doctors are highly skilled and mostly accommodating. Support staff (nurses, orderlies, etc) are generally rude and unaccommodating. Rest assured your body will be very well taken care of, but your spirit maybe not so much. Private clinics treat you very well but are not necessarily as well equipped as hospitals. Italians tend to use more medicines than in the US, most medicines are available over-the-counter (at a higher price if) without a prescription, and Italian doctors tend to prescribe medication without performing clinical analyses (lab tests and cultures, etc.) first!
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Moderate to poor. If you suffer from allergies, be prepared to self-medicate often!
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Very humid and unbearably hot in late July/August, but otherwise fairly mild compared to, say, New England weather.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Easily available in English and French. There are also Spanish and German private schools. I am not sure about the availability of international schools in other languages. If you're paying out of pocket, expect to pay similar prices to private US schools/colleges.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Readily available in multiple languages. Italian preschools and daycare centers are also very good, and Italians love children.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
They are readily available through private schools. Otherwise, private swimming, soccer, tennis, and horseback-riding are also offerred through non-academic institutions in the many country-club-like structures (circoli) outside the centro storico.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Extremely large.
2. Morale among expats:
Depends on the day. Rome and Italy are great, but as with any country not your own, living here takes some getting used to.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
If you have the time to look for and experience it, it's out there!
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
It is pretty good for singles and couples with means in every respect. There are many social events and restaurants and cultural events of which to take advantage. Facilities for families (parks, children's libraries, paved sidewalks for strollers, etc.) are woefully lacking. The main large parks are Villa Borghese (like NYC's Central Park), Villa Ada, and Villa Pamphili---and there are a few dog parks. Some restaurants are starting to offer more kids' menus. Italians love children, so where they lack in facilities they make up for it in willingness to accommodate you and your children.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
I haven't heard of any particular problems to speak of.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
There is some racial prejudice and some intolerance to foreigners. Gender prejudices are seen more rarely, and pregnant women are mostly given red-carpet treatment everywhere.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
The food---you can't go wrong! The language---beautiful! The awesomeness of the ruins in Rome---mind-boggling every time.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Ruins, museums, concerts, opera, theater, movies (a couple of theaters also have films in original language), day-trips, okay beaches nearby, people-watching, and Italian restaurants.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Period furniture, art, haute couture, specialized food items.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Fantastic food, great travel opportunities to interesting sites in and around all of Italy from mountains to beaches and everything in between, easy and quick connections to most other European cities, great history and historic sites within Rome, vast differences in culture between north and south. The cost of living in Rome is, in many respects, as high as in NYC or WDC or Boston, and foreigners pay more than Italians to see some historical sites---so if saving money is a priority, be prepared to be very frugal indeed.
11. Can you save money?
If you choose to stay home and do nothing, yes. Otherwise, very little.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Come here, yes. Live here? Maybe not!
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Expectations of order and civic-mindedness!
3. But don't forget your:
Love of chaos and adventure as well as an ever-ready smile.
