Rome, Italy Report of what it's like to live there - 04/13/12
Personal Experiences from Rome, Italy
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
This is my fourth tour overseas. I've also served in Casablanca, Morocco; Athens, Greece; and Fatako, Guinea.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Pensacola, Florida, is my home. PNS-ATL-FCO takes about 14 hours.
3. How long have you lived here?
I've been in Rome for 20 months, since August 2010.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
I am a US Government employee.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Housing is mostly apartments in various locations in the city. Most people are pleasantly surprised with their housing arrangment, and unpleasantly surprised with their commute. If you are looking at a map and think, "that's only 10 minutes away", then double or triple your original time expectation.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Groceries are readily available at grocery stores, kiosks, and outdoor markets. Everything is 20-40% more expensive that you'd expect, except wine. In many cases wine is cheaper than water and Coke.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
I should have shipped my mountain bike (for Villa Borghese, Villa Ada, etc). I'm glad I shipped my assortment of water guns.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
I think this question needs to be changed for Italy as fast food is the polar opposite of decent restaurants. This is where slow food was born! There are excellent Italian restaurants in every neighborhood. There are also a lot of ethnic restaurants of various quality. Pick one out and make it your own.
5. What kinds of organic, vegetarian and allergy-friendly foods are available, such as organic produce, gluten-free products, meat substitutes for vegetarians, etc?
There are organic grocery stores in most neighborhoods. Italians are a healthy bunch. Rome is vegetarian-friendly. In Tuscany and Umbria they are a little more carnivorous.
6. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
There are suprisingly very few insects. In July and August the stealthy tiger mosquitoes come out. That's about it.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
There is a DPO post office at the Embassy. I also get letters and magazines delivered to my Italian apartment address.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Domestic help is available, but expensive.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There is a decent gym at the Embassy. Private health clubs are expensive.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
There have been reports of some restaurants skimming credit cards, so make sure they swipe any credit cards in front of you at the table. Check around yourself before you use the ATM and you should be fine. Yes, the ATM itself will still rob you with transaction fees.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Yes. I'm pretty sure Catholic services are available, as well as others.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
We have internet and CNN here. Do people still read printed newspapers?
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
For daily living, you need to know zero Italian. But, the more Italian you know, the better person you will be. It's a beautiful language, si?
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Rome is horrible for wheel-chairs and strollers. It is hilly, lined with centuries-old cobblestones, and pedestrians fight with motorinis and parked cars on the sidewalks.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Trains are awesome. Buses are entertaining. Taxis are taxis. The Rome metro is a little sketchy. I think they all are affordable and one can easily get around Rome with the annual ATAC Card. The card costs 230 Euros/year.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Bring whatever vehicle is easiest to park in small spaces, paid off, or already dented. We brought a Chevy Impala, which at 200 inches long and 70 inches wide is too big. But it's paid for, already dented, and great for road trips. Also, car insurance is ridiculously expense, so research that ahead of time. You may decide to not bring a vehicle at all. If you do bring a vehicle, buy a GPS. I recommend a Garmin Nuvi, and don't forget to load the European map ($100 software?).
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
High-speed internet is available. Costs vary depending of the provider, but subscription rates seem reasonable. Most encounter problems when canceling subscriptions, so do that 3 months prior to leaving Rome. Also, suggest you bring your own wireless router due to issues with dynamic IP addressing.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
It is good to have a cellphone. Various plans abound.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No.
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
We have an excellent vet, so I would suspect vets in other neighborhoods to be good as well. We've not used a kennel, but have been able to get dog-sitters at a reasonable price. Many hotels in Italy accept dogs as well.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
I'm not sure, but the job market seems difficult and requires specific skill sets and fluency in Italian.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
I think there are two dress codes in Rome...Italian and tourist. At work a suit and tie or suit jacket and jeans seems to be acceptable for men. I don't know how to discuss women's dress code except that I like whatever it is. Fashionable shoes are highly important. Wear scarves in the fall and winter. If in doubt, just wear something Italian.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
If you act like a tourist, expect to get pick-pocketed.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Medical care is good. Kidney stones are a concern if you are prone to them and drink the local water. I drink from the local fountains and so far so good.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
I would rate air quality as moderate. It varies widely based on weather and traffic...some days are just spectacular in either direction. Spring allergies are potent here.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
The weather is superb in the spring and fall. Summer in Rome reminds me of a little Florida. Winter is generally rainy and overcast beginning in November.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
My daughter is in elementary school at AOSR. It's ok. I feel there is a lack of structure or discipline at the school compared to her previous school in Fairfax, VA. I think all the schools struggle here due to financial constraints and pressures. Expect to pay out of pocket for extra-curriculars.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
I've not experienced this first-hand, but I beleive the general attitude would be one of accommodation.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Preschool/daycare is available, but I believe it is very expensive. Our preschool-aged daughter stays at home and has frequent play-dates with her peers, which fits our situation.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Yes. Soccer is popular and I recommend the new Italia Select Academy. All the schools have good sports programs, but expect to pay out of pocket. There is a whole range of activities in the city if you know enough Italian as well.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Huge. Some days I just can't get away from Americans, even when on vacation in a remote hilltown.
2. Morale among expats:
I think most people are happy here. People who aren't comforable with chaos or cling to silly ideals of order, structure, and timeliness seem less happy. Count to ten, chant serenity now, embrace chaos, and hopefully that will work for you.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
I find life in Rome very entertaining and sociable. If you enjoy eating food, talking to people, and talking slow walks, you'll fit right in.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
I think Rome is great for anyone willing to experience it and embrace it. Who knows, maybe Rome will embrace you back.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Yes, Rome is very progressive in some areas.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
I've not encountered much prejudice here in Rome. Being Filipino-American, I've actually encountered less discrimination here in Rome than I did growing up in Florida. However, I do get tired of Italians asking me for directions as if I were a native Roman.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
We enjoy going to Festivals or "Sagre". So far we've been to Chocolate, Strawberry, Grape, Carnivale, Chestnut, Truffle, and Archery festivals. We've also enjoyed touring Tuscany and wine country.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
There are the everyday fun things like enjoying cappuccino, eating gelato, sitting in a piazza, drinking wine, and seeing the sites. There's also the theatre, concerts, karaoke bars, catacombs, throwing lock keys into the Tiber, and seeing the Pope.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Italian food and wine, clothes, leather, ceramics, naked statues of David, photos of Gladiators, and Venetian masks.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
There are numerous advantages to living in Rome. If you like Italian food, pasta, pizza, and gelato, this is a pretty good place. There are a few famous sites to see, as well, and most of them are free. The weather seems always better than expected. In general, you will become better-looking the longer you stay in Rome, or at least more fashionable. Also, there are enough day-trip and weekend-trip opportunities to fill a lifetime, so I suggest you make a list and prioritize it.
11. Can you save money?
It is possible to save money if you have access to the commissary in Naples or if you don't like to eat Italian food.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes, I would still live in Rome again and again.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Friends, family, friends of friends, friends of family members, distant cousins, and Facebook acquantances, because they will all probably visit you anyway.
3. But don't forget your:
Water guns.
4. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
Euro Trip.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Get the Rick Steve's app or visit RickSteves.com.
