Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Report of what it's like to live there - 07/19/24
Personal Experiences from Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
I have been posted in AF (Addis Ababa) and EUR (Paris) prior to my assignment in HCMC.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
I am from the DMV, and the trip home is a long one. It’s about 24-27 hours with at least one layover.
3. How long have you lived here?
So far, I have lived in HCMC for just short of four years.
4. What years did you live here?
I’ve been here since late 2020 and will leave in the summer of 2025.
5. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
I moved here to work the consulate.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
My housing is fantastic. I have a spacious 3-bedroom newly renovated apartment in a serviced apartment/hotel. We have daily housekeeping (or less depending on how you schedule it), a good gym, sauna, and pool. Housekeeping provides fresh linens and toilet paper each time they come. Our Wi-Fi is also provided by the residence. I am located in District 1 (D1) which is walkable and surrounded by amazing food options. My residence is also right next to the Consulate so I could not have a better commute unless I lived on the compound. I can leave my door and be at my desk within 10 minutes.
If you do not have kids or a pet, you will likely live in one of the serviced apartments in D1. If you have kids or a pet, you will likely be moved into a house or apartment in District 2 (D2).
The D2 houses are on a lovely compound with multiple pools, tennis courts, playgrounds, gyms, etc. but they are not serviced. The apartments in D2 are serviced apartments and are typically larger than the D1 apartments. They are also on a compound by the water.
The biggest difference for me between D1 and D2 (besides the commute which can be up to 45 min on a bad day between the office and D2 ) is that D1 is in the middle of the city surrounded by local shops and local food options, and D2 is the expat area so many things are very westernized.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
It depends. If you shop locally, things are incredibly cheap. If you buy imported items, it will be more expensive than back home, but you can also just buy that stuff online and have it shipped.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Most things can either be procured here or shipped. Since liquids can’t be shipped in large amounts and aerosols can’t be shipped at all, I recommend looking at what items you use that fall into those categories and bring them with you. Some are difficult to get locally or can be expensive.
For example, if you like to drink wine, bring your own supply. Vietnamese people don’t really drink wine so it’s hard to find good wines, and the terrible wines they do sell here are really expensive. There’s also a lot of mosquitos in Vietnam and the buy spray here does not contain deet, so I wish I brought lots of stronger bug spray with me.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
I could write a book about the food of HCMC, and a series of books if we include all of Vietnam. Vietnamese food is so good and so inexpensive. Beyond Vietnamese food, there are a plethora of other options including: Japanese, Korean, Thai, Taiwanese, Chinese, Indian, Italian, French, Mexican, American, Moroccan, Brazilian, Spanish, Mediterranean, Georgian, Russian, Greek, Turkish, vegan, vegetarian, fantastic steakhouses, so much seafood, and more. In fact, there are so many options it can be overwhelming, but it’s a great problem to have. You can dine-in, takeout, or get it delivered.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Inside our housing, no. There are some geckos but that is normal for this region, and they eat bugs if they do come inside so they are nice housemates. I had a few ants after a party where some crumbs where on the ground overnight.
Outside though… I mean it’s the tropics. Mosquitos are a problem. It’s also a big city so you will see roaches and rats around (stay away from the parks if this bothers you).
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
We have DPO. Also, local mail is so cheap but maybe not the easiest to manage if you don’t speak Vietnamese. Vendors around Vietnam will ship things to my residence and the staff are nice and hold it for me until I am home.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Domestic staff are reliable and inexpensive. Those of us who live in the serviced apartments have free housekeeping. Families in D2 houses will often employ housekeepers. Many families also have nannies. Also, many of us also employ cooks and personal trainers.
3. Do you feel that it is safe to walk, run or hike outside? Are there areas where bike riding is possible? What is the availability and safety of outdoor space for exercising? Are these easily accessible?
I walk around the city quite often and it's completely safe if you are aware of your surroundings. Sometimes motorbikes will use the sidewalks because there is traffic or it's a one-way street. A couple of people ride their bikes to work from D2 daily. I would never do that but they have been fine.
The D2 homes have an outdoor workout space with outdoor equipment. We also do boot camp weekly outside with the Marines. There are also plenty of parks that locals work out in, but parks have rats in them and they are not scared of people and come out during all hours, so I generally avoid them.
4. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
All of us have access to gyms with our residences. Some are better than others, so some folks also have gym memberships. Prices and quality ranges. There are all sorts of classes and studios around town too. Many folks do yoga, Pilates, dance, HITT, boxing, and CrossFit.
5. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Credit cards are easy to use at many places, but I always have cash on me for local places. Many local vendors prefer money transfers to credit card which you can’t do unless you have a local bank account.
It’s best to get cash from the office cashier. I do not trust the ATMs as sometimes they “eat” your card and you have to wait until the bank is open to get it back.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
You do not need to know or speak Vietnamese to live in HCMC. Locals love it when you try though. Just don’t be upset if they don’t understand you when you try. Vietnamese is a very tonal language and it’s hard to learn. I’ve noticed that folks with a background in Chinese are much better at learning Vietnamese. You can take lessons and they are affordable but limit your expectations.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
This city is not accessible. Our office is not even very accessible.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Yes, local transport is safe and very affordable. I use Grab (which is like Uber) on a daily basis. Motorcycles and scooters are less safe than cars, but many of us take them anyway as it’s the main mode of transportation for the vast majority of the population in HCMC. Traffic can be daunting, but it’s really not that bad.
2. What kind of vehicle(s) including electric ones do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, infrastructure, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car or vehicles do you advise not to bring?
I would not bring a car to HCMC. Parking a car in HCMC is a nightmare. Some folks who live in D2 drive to work so they don’t have to take the work shuttle, but they are the exception. I know coworkers who would drive to the beach for the weekend on occasion, but I would much rather hirer a car and driver so I can relax since it’s not expensive.
Vietnam also has strict requirements for cars that are shipped here (must be newer), and no car will survive the swarm of motorbikes for a few years without getting a few scratches and dents.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
My apartment comes with free Wi-Fi so it was ready from the moment I arrived and logged in. Each apartment has their own log-in but I wanted to manage my own network, so I set up a Google mesh network and that made things run faster too.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
I use a local provider. I highly recommend Viettel as it’s run by the Ministry of Defense, so it works really well. Just know that you have no privacy while on your phone. Even if you go with another provider, you will still have no privacy and the service is less dependable.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
I don’t have pets, but I have heard both good and bad things about pet ownership here.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
There are plenty of EFM jobs in HCMC, to include EPAP positions. There are also many EFMs that work from home for companies outside of Vietnam. There is no bilateral work agreement.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Plenty of volunteer opportunities. You just have to know where to look. Get to know the local staff and they will tell you all you want to know.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
It’s the tropics and it is hot and humid all year long, so we are business causal most days unless you work in a job that requires you to meet with government officials and business contacts. Some newcomers are shocked by how casual most of us dress, but that wears off quickly and those folks soon join us. We are professional but comfortable.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
It’s a city with lots of motorcycles, so be aware of your surroundings so you don’t get hit by one or get your phone/purse snatched (not very common but it happens).
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Dengue is a concern for some, but if you use bug spray to keep from getting bitten then you’ll be fine. If you have a serious medical condition that needs contact care, I would reconsider moving here. The medical care here is fine but for anything more than a cold/flu, I would prefer to go somewhere else to seek medical assistance.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
We have an air quality monitor at the office. We are usually yellow or green. Every now and again it goes orange (more so in the dry season) so everyone complains about how bad the air pollution is but it’s way better than most major cities in the region.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
Allergies… I have those and it’s not easy but it’s manageable. For me, I went from spring and fall season allergies in DC to no environmental allergies here. Some folks have said they have mold issues in their place, but I don’t think that is allergies as much as it’s just unhealthy. It’s the tropics. Check your place for mold and get it dealt with as soon as possible. Also, use the dehumidifiers the office provides for you. I have had zero issues with mold, but I empty all four dehumidifiers twice a day.
Food allergies can be difficult. I am severely allergic to peanuts in a city that loves sprinkling peanuts on top of their dishes. I knew this before coming here, so I was fully prepared. I keep two EpiPens on me as well as an arsenal of Benadryl. While people here don’t understand allergies and may just think you are being picky, I remove all doubt by providing them with the allergy card the Medical Unit created for me, and I learned how to say “I will die if I eat peanuts” in Vietnamese to drive the message home.
I eat out at local joints all the time and it really isn’t a big concern for me anymore. Out of habit, I still dig through dishes that typically have peanuts in them to make sure there aren’t any. I’ve found a surprise peanut in only three different dishes after almost four years of living here. They are always super apologetic, but I still won’t return to those places as there are so many other places that will make sure my dishes are peanut-free.
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
No, we get plenty of sun.
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
It’s always hot and humid. December to April is dry season and May-November is wet season. Wet season just means there will be a downpour at some point in the day, but it’s not typically for it to rain all day.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
I don’t have kids, but the families seem happy with the schools here.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
Not sure but the CLO should know.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Not sure but the CLO should know.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Not sure but the CLO should know.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
The expat community is huge, and I would say the morale is typically really good.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
There are lots of meetups around the city. For ladies, the Female Expat Group of HCMC and HCMC Girls Gone International are great groups to meet other woman both locals and expats. I am very social and play board games as well, so I met most of my friends at local board game events.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
I think it is a good city for anyone, but it really depends on what you are looking for. If you are a single woman and you prioritize dating in your life, then this may not be the place for you. Single men seem to have a great time dating here regardless of their sexual preference. This seems to be a great place for our LGBTQI+ colleagues. Families and couples really thrive here too.
4. Is it easy to make friends with locals here? Are there any prejudices or any ethnic groups who might feel uncomfortable here?
I have more local friends than expat friends in HCMC. It is easy to make local friends if you are willing to go out to local places and be open minded.
I have heard that people of Chinese origins might not be the most welcome. There is a very strong anti-China sentiment in Vietnam.
I should note that Vietnamese people are not accustomed to seeing people of color. Some of my colleagues are often asked about their hair and some locals will want to take random photos with them. I find it to be super awkward and uncomfortable, but my colleagues are usually really kind about it and said it doesn’t bother them.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
We have a very large population of LGBTQI+ coworkers (both American and local) and they all seem to love it here.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Yes and no. The government has issues with ethnic racial minorities of Vietnam and religious prejudices, but the local people not so much.
Again, there is a strong anti-China sentiment in Vietnam so that may be an issue for people of Chinese descent. And people of color may also face some odd interactions with locals but it’s never mean-spirited.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
People: Vietnamese people are lovely if you give them a chance.
Food: The food here is amazing. So much so I need a personal trainer to keep me in shape.
Travel: It is ridiculously inexpensive to travel in country and around the region.
Work: Although this is likely because of the people. I have enjoyed my work here so much.
Tailoring: I am leaving with a while new wardrobe because tailoring is inexpensive and good here. I have gotten to the point where I design my own clothes and the tailors bring them to life. Hoi An is my favorite destination for tailoring.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
There’s too much to list. I will share my google map pins with the CLO and you can get it from them.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Yes! Tailored clothing is a must while you are here. I also have a great carpenter who has made me more furniture that I can take with me. And I also have a great guy who does framing so I have so I may have overdone it with framing things too.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Life is easy and wonderful. If you get the opportunity to move here, do it!
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
The concerns that people have about HCMC are so outdated. I have friends that are too scared to visit here because it’s a communist country. Our governments have a good relationship; safety is not a concern. I will acknowledge, however, that you do not have any right to privacy, so if that concerns you, then maybe think twice before moving here.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Absolutely. I am not allowed to stay longer or I would, and I am coming back as soon as I can.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
worries. Life here is wonderful. Embrace it and enjoy it for as long as you can.
4. But don't forget your:
sense of adventure, and a positive attitude.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
No. Most western depictions of Vietnam are so one-sided and outdated.
6. Do you have any other comments?
This is by far my favorite assignment and having traveled all over Africa, Europe, and Asia it is also my favorite city. I went on a 3-week TDY to another city in the region, which is modern and beautiful, but after two weeks I was already ready to head back to HCMC. I will miss it dearly when I move to my next post.
