Rome, Italy Report of what it's like to live there - 02/28/08
Personal Experiences from Rome, Italy
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No. I was born in Puerto Rico where my father worked for the U.S. Government. My mother is from Puerto Rico, so I was not a true expat, but I have lived both lifestyles simultaneously.
2. How long have you lived here?
13 months.
3. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
I work for the government.
4. Travel time and best routes to this city from Europe or the US:
Many routes are available but it's generally a 9-hour direct flight from the East Coast.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Everyone lives in apartments. Garage space is always provided for U.S. Government employees. The further out you live, the more likely you will get garage space colocated with your apartment. Commute times can range from 15 minutes to over an hour. Many people use public transportation, but I see lots of people drive cars, motorini (Vespas), bicycle, walk, etc. Housing gets larger the further away you live; however, commute times also get worse.
The only real advantage to living further out is that you are closer to schools. Also note:most residences are not supplied with a lot of electricity. In my house, I cannot run the washer and dryer at the same time without tripping a breaker. Because these appliances are also on the same circuit with the kitchen, we cannot run the dishwasher while doing laundry. This can get pretty frustrating with a larger family!
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
It depends on what sorts of foods you rely on. If you stick to the Mediterranean diet, it's fairly inexpensive. If you try to stick to your American diet, it will be more expensive than maintaing that in the U.S. For example, olive oil and wine cost about half as much as they do in the U.S. However, canned corn costs twice as much. Pre-packaged foods are also considerably more expensive. But fruits and veggies, especially those in season, are very inexpensive. If you work with the U.S. government here, you have access to all the military commisaries, and the embassy commisary as well. However, the embassy commisary is fairly expensive. If you need peanut butter, it's your best bet, but everything else can be had on the economy at a fair price - and without all the preservatives and artificial sweetners and colors.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Between Amazon, the internet, the APO, Netflix and the commisaries, we can get anything we need here. EXCEPT: Fun craft supplies for the kids, and yourself if you are an arts & crafts enthusiast. I never find that stuff on the local economy or on the base.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Italy is all about food: food for every budget, every taste and every need for speed. All food is very fresh, as preservatives are rarely used and Italy is all farms and hill towns. But if you want McDonald's or Burger King, there's plenty of that here too! It runs us about 25 Euros (over $30), though to feed a family of five... not the least expensive way to feed a family in Rome at all. There is a coffee bar on every block with wonderful premade sandwiches and assorted goodies at much more reasonable prices - and fresher food. For my food dollar, that's a better choice than McDonald's any day.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
We have APO. Using the local mail is a crapshoot. I don't recommend it.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
About 10 euro/hour. Not cheap.
3. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
As with all other major cities, be careful which ATM machines you use and when. ATM's (they call them 'Bancomats' here) are available every few blocks. It's best to use those attached to banks. Aside from that, it is 2008 and there are still a lot of places that will not accept your charge cards. Get used to carrying cash! Also, your bank will ring you every time you take cash out, and may not give you the best exchange rate. Then again, they might. Check with them ahead of time. Or do what we did, experiment! It turns out are bank doesn't hit us too terribly hard, compared to some of the credit cards. Just the same, cash is king here.
4. What English-language religious services are available locally?
It's called Roman Catholic for a reason! There are many different Christian denominations available, but not all are available in English. There is an English service Baptist church and Anglican church (aside from Santa Susana - Catholic). I have not heard of any English Jewish services, although there is certainly a Jewish (orthodox) synagogue in Rome.
5. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
The International Herald Tribune is the English language paper of choice. You can find anything in Rome, actually, but you'll pay dearly for it! I've seen American magazines run as much as US$10. You can get them for a third off the cover price on military bases, though - even cheaper if you subscribe. You can get SKY Italia satellite service here for about US$50/month, and it allows you to set foreign programs to their original languages. This is great for the little ones. If you are a U.S. Government employee, and can get your hands on an AFN box, you won't have to miss another season of American Idol.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
You can't skip it. Italians do not feel comfortable speaking English - for the most part. They learn it in school, but most never become fluent. Many will know a few words relating to their work, but not enough to hold a conversation. Learn as much as you can before you arrive.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
As a mother of a toddler in a stroller, I really feel for the wheel-chair bound in Italy. As I said before, sidewalks are narrow, ramps are rare, elevators are tiny, doors narrow, and Rome is very hilly. It's rare to find restrooms that are properly equipped for the wheel-chair bound. I can't even imagine grocery shopping, as all the aisles are pretty narrow. Having said that, there are handicapped parking spaces in parking lots, and some traffic signals for the visually-disabled. Also, Italians love their dogs, and probably would not be in the least offended by service animals. Just the same, it's a tough town to get around in if you have any mobility issues at all.
Transportation:
1. Do you drive on the right hand side of the road or the left?
Legally, on the right. In reality, whatever gets you from point A to point B so long as no one gets killed. Good to luck to you.
2. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Absolutely. One euro buys you 75 minutes of bus/metro ride. Taxis aren't super cheap but they're not prohibitive. Unfortunately, some cabbies will take advantage of non-Italians by taking them somewhere via a longer route, etc. But then again, if you are female, sometimes you get a little price break. You take the good with the bad, I guess.
3. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
I have a minivan. It does fine, but when it comes time to parking it, it's a bit of a bear. It's great when we're travelling between towns, but in the city it's tricky. I would discourage bringing a vehicle bigger than that. Also, there are not too many mechanics willing to even *touch* a U.S. vehicle.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
ADSL is available from all the major telecom companies. I get mine from Infostrada and pay about US$50/month. It's fairly reliable, but not 100% reliable. Occasionally it goes out for no reason for a few days.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Don't bother bringing your old ones from home. Just bite the bullet and buy them here. If you are lucky enough to work for the government, buy yours at the Vonage store in Naples. The firmware will be in English, and the sales reps speak fluent English and will help you set it up. Whatever company you choose to buy sim cards from, get it for the whole family. Vonage to Vonage calls are cheaper (or free) compared to Vonage to Tim, for example.
3. What is the best way to make phone calls back home?
I have vonage. Before I had my internet hooked up though, a 10-euro calling card bought me 1000 minutes.
Pets:
1. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
They love their pets as much as their kids here. Quality pet care abounds. Finding English speaking services may be a bit more difficult.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
No. None. Do not come here thinking you will just find a job, because you won't. The locals can't even find a decent job here (unless they are nicely connected). This goes double if you are the spouse of a U.S. Government employee. NO. JOBS. AT. ALL. No one can fix that for you, either. Resign yourself to a period of unemployment or find another option. If you manage to get something - anything, you are among the lucky few.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Italians have a distinctive style: very urban, classic. Women prefer dresses and skirts and funky tights and tall boots. Men dress fairly conservatively. You won't see men at office jobs wearing football jersey's or t-shirts although I do occasionally spy some jeans! Women love to wear make-up, but you don't see many with manicures. It is perfectly acceptable to go out wearing jeans.
Health & Safety:
1. Pollution index (Good, Moderate, Unhealthy, or Very Unhealthy)?
Moderate to unhealthy especially for those with allergies.
2. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
There are no major security concerns. Rome is known for pick-pockets but not really for violent crime. However, break-in's are also somewhat common. For the most part, using common sense will keep you safe.
3. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Asthma and allergies are a problem here. The water is clean, but heavily calcified. If you drink nothing but tap water, you'll eventually get kidney stones. Doctors are somewhat old school here, in that they may not be interested in what you think is wrong with you, because you're just a patient, what do you know? However, the Embassy refers to American trained doctors, so we employees don't generally encounter those problems. You have to pay your bill when you go to the doctor, about US$150 and then submit your claim to your insurance company, who eventually send you a check back. No biggy if you're very healthy, but a problem if you're sick and require many visits. Children of embassy families are treated free of charge on site.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Just listen to Vivaldi's Four Seasons. Okay, fine... hot and dry in the summer, cold and somewhat rainy in winter. It rarely snows (I haven't seen snow in Rome), and although summer afternoons are very hot, the evenings cool down nicely.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
I only hear good things regarding all of the international schools. The three principal schools are American Overseas School of Rome (AOSR), Marymount, and St. Stephens. All these schools have a web presence. The only thing I have heard that is discouraging is that Marymount is not as welcoming for special needs kids. I have met a few people who initially intended to send their kids to Marymount only to change their minds once they came to Rome. My son goes to AOSR and loves it. He really likes the individual attention and he is impressed with the teachers' abilities to get the kids excited about what they're learning. His grades have improved since he started attending school in Rome.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
I know a family with a little boy who has an autism-related issue (highly functioning) and AOSR was very accomodating. They even have a speech therapist come in on a regular basis to work with him. The parents are very pleased with the results and feel that their son is actually thriving. Having said that, I'm fairly certain that the schools only take kids on case-by-case basis. I don't know at what point they are no longer capable of accomodating special needs children. Another collegue sent his kindergardener to AMBRIT. His child had speech issues and Ambrit gladly took the child in and the child's condition improved during their time in Rome. Marymount is definitely very reluctant to take on such kids. I don't have any information about any other schools.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Preschools and daycares are very good here, and if you go with the local options, very inexpensive. If you send your child for Pre-K at any of the interntaional schools (AOSR, Marymount, AMBRIT, etc.), you will pay through the nose. All charge upwards of US$10,000 a year just for the half-day program. They will offer discounts if you have other children in the school, but it's still pretty expensive.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Pretty big. Even bigger if you mix in the Brits and the Aussies.
2. Morale among expats:
Most people love it, but some hate it here. Those who love it, love the food, the travelling, the museums, etc. Those who hate it are upset because it's an expensive town, very chaotic by American standards, and it's painfully difficult to find a job here. We all complain about the same things, but in the end most of us all really like the wine and the olive oil and beautiful country side.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
It's what you make of it. If you want quiet evenings at home, that's easy enough. If you want to go paint the town red every night, that's easy too. Drinking here is very cheap compared to the U.S. Dining is not. You have been warned!
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
This city is hardest for families with children still in diapers & strollers and for single men. The sidewalks are too narrow, cracked, and bumpy for most strollers (ramps are really hard find, too), and diaper changing stations are RARE in restrooms. Don't get me wrong - Italians LOVE babies, but it's really difficult to get around town if you have a little one.
Single men used to American women often find that single Italian women have very different standards than American women. Most men simply do not have the patience to pursue the local women, and the local women apparently find American men too... impatient?cI reallydon't know. I just know what my single male friends have told me. It's a great city for everyone else!
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
It appears to be. I haven't heard otherwise.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Italians are sometimes very old fashioned regarding women although the situation appears to be improving. Men are somewhat condescending towards women - more so than we're used to in the U.S. Having said that, however, they're often super nice to women in a way they won't be towards men. As for racial prejudice, well, it seems that the less you look like an Italian, the harder things will be for you.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Goodness. It's Rome.... Italy...Europe!! If you love ruins, there's the Collosseum and the Forum. If you love museums, there's the Vatican museums and Galleria Borghese. If you love to hike, swim, go to the beach, ski, it's all within an hour's drive of Rome. There's no shortage of things to do here. And when you get bored with Rome, there's the rest of Italy, or Europe, or even Northern Africa.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Murano glass, wine. olive oil, leather goods, travel....maybe a groovy motorino (motorbike)?
9. Can you save money?
At US$1.51 to the Euro, no.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Only if my husband could get a job here, too. Or if he had the job and I could stay home.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Chevy Suburban, and sun-blocking curtians. All apartments have shutters that block out the sun.
3. But don't forget your:
Rugs, they don't have wall to wall carpeting here. Also, find the best GPS you can afford, then blow the budget and buy the more expensive model. Make sure you buy the map for Europe for it. Get this well ahead of time and really learn to use it. It may be the best investment you make.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
6. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
La Dolce Vita
7. Do you have any other comments?
As far as personal safety goes, this is a very safe town. I've never felt threatened by or frightened of another person here. Just the same, watch your purse and wallet. It's no fun to spend a day out of your vacation sitting in the consulate waiting to get a provisional passport because yours was stolen. Before you come on vacation, read up on what to do if your passport is stolen and find out the consulate hours of business. The consulate does not open on local or American holidays.
