Rome, Italy Report of what it's like to live there - 10/14/14
Personal Experiences from Rome, Italy
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Yes.
2. How long have you lived here?
2 years.
3. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Government (not USA).
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
On the local economy, can be expensive. Several young/trendy/local areas. From Embassy area to the centre of Rome, 30 minutes by car (45 during rush hour) not including parking. Scooter recommended but only if you are competent on one before coming.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Fresh produce is very affordable (especially in city markets) and of high quality. Organic products are popular. Frozen foods are scarce (rightly so). Finished goods (toiletries, furniture, electronics) are very expensive compared to North America.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Almost everything is available here, just depends on how much you want to pay for it and how much effort you want to put in to get it (peanut butter, maple syrup). Bring toiletry items you like such as anti-perspirant and toothpaste.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Large number of fantastic Italian restaurants at varying prices, however, many are surprised that much like in North America, for every good place, there are at least 2-3 bad ones. Not every place you will eat here will blow your mind. Important to go on recommendations. Variety and quality of ethnic food is very, very low.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Mosquitos as in North America.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
The Italian Post office is easily the worst place on earth and where people's dreams go to die a horrible, slow death.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Cleaning help is readily available at 8-10 Euro/hour. Many people get someone to come in weekly or once every two weeks for 4-5 hours.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Yes, but expensive. 400 Euro for 3 months gym. Tennis, soccer, squash, basketball are available.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Cash-based society. Stores don't want to pay CC fees or do the accounting associated with it. And, cash is just... easier... for many reasons...
Only some shops will accept cards, but usually with a stink especially if your transaction is under 100 Euro. Sometimes the credit card machine will be "broken." Shops often ask for exact change, then give you attitude if you don't have it.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
The level of English in Rome and Italy is almost non-existent outside of tourist areas. Italian is necessary especially since you have to argue to get anything done here.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Moderate. Most buildings have at least small, ancient elevators but not all staircases are ramped. In the city, difficulty with blocked sidewalks, cobblestones, curbs, etc.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Public transit is cheap (1.50 Euro for a ride) but nearly useless. The metro is two lines that don't go anywhere useful. Strikes are frequent. Buses just don't show up. Taxis are many (but only available by calling or at cab stands) but taxi drivers WILL take advantage of the unsuspecting. Cost is high if you call or take a cab at night, otherwise not bad.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Small but solid, otherwise you will not ever be able to park. Driving is a survival sport and parking is a jungle. Your car WILL get dinged and scuffed here... "Romanized." Major highways are private, therefore very good, but tolled per km.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, although set-up times are long and god forbid anything goes wrong, dealing with the internet companies is an exercise in futility. 50 Euro/month.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Bring your own unlocked phone and get a SIM card here. Monthly plans are cheap (as low as 10 Euro per month).
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
No. The economy is depressed. Youth unemployment is 30%+. Work visas are impossible to get unless it's to teach English.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Very few.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Fashion-forward. Classic slim-cut suits and ties for men, dresses or pantsuits with accessories for women. Advice I heard: "It's all about the shoes!"
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Petty theft rampant (mostly by Roma people aka "gypsies" on public transit). Physical security in the centre not bad - normal precautions. Apartment break-in rates are high. Organized crime filters down to many levels (harassment by street vendors etc) and goes uncountered by the police.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Very good if you're on the private system. Doctors do house calls and ambulances are private.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Pretty good, although due to amount of cars and scooters, fumes can get bad especially in summer.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
Hayfever and seasonal allergies exist here, both in spring and fall. OTC meds are available.
5. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Scorching hot and humid July/August (35C degrees) to wet and rainy (5C degrees) winter. Spring and fall are long and pleasant. Due to construction and cost of energy, Italian buildings tend to minimize use of both heating and A/C.
Schools & Children:
1. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Mostly soccer.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Huge. Most people have a short honeymoon with Rome until they realize it's impossible to get anything done here, and Romans are generally really not very nice people to strangers.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Most activities are centred around long, lingering three-hour dinners with friends. Excursions to various concerts/shows and art events (there's always something), trips out of town. Hanging out in the piazzas.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Lots of activities for singles and couples. However, it's surprisingly difficult to connect and form friendships despite the large expat community (there are too many expats, especially if you're in international organization circles, so people stop expanding their circles at some point). Romans do not seem to have much interest in making expat friends.
4. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Yes. 90% people of brown/black people you will see are migrants who may not be here legally and may not make their living legally. Older generations are still not accepting of immigrants. Banana peels still get thrown on soccer fields. Women should be prepared to be looked at on the street.
5. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Gained 20+lbs. Extensive travel in Italy. Great food, wine and fun events. Italians know how to "do life" (which is admittedly fun when you're out drinking wine until 1am on a schoolnight, not so much when everyone is on perpetual coffee break the next morning when you need to get things done).
6. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Huge array of day/weekend trips out of the city. Rome also has reasonable skiing nearby. Music and cultural events every night of the week.
7. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Clothing, art, food, a vintage Fiat 500.
8. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Food, culture/art/music, local travel, weather... food!
9. Can you save money?
I guess, but spend it instead on good meals and travel opportunities. Otherwise why are you coming here?
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
That Rome is large, chaotic city that barely functions and that Romans are generally not very nice people. Here, one day some rules don't apply at all, and some rules apply always, and then the next day it's all reversed. You will catch yourself saying "that makes NO SENSE" several times a day. This place will get to you, especially when people say things like "you're so lucky to live in Rome, you must just eat pasta and drink wine all day!". But coming in with your eyes open will help. Drink some prosecco and move on.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Expectations of La Dolce Vita and Romans as kind, warm people. That's over.
North-American tailored clothes.
4. But don't forget your:
Attitude and elbows.
