Caracas, Venezuela Report of what it's like to live there - 03/24/10
Personal Experiences from Caracas, Venezuela
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
8 hours to DC area (includes 1 stop).
3. How long have you lived here?
Roughly 1 year.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Spouse of a US Embassy employee.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
All apartments. Most embassy apartments are close (5-10 minutes) to the embassy. There are a few across the highway from the embassy--these can take over an hour to get to from work. Apartments are usually nice and spacious with a good view. Many apartment buildings have pools or at least a playground. Many people have serious issues with landlords and maintenance.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Plentiful veggies and fruits, although some are quite expensive (apples, avocadoes). Massive shortages of staples like sugar, milk, flour, rice, paper towels, and toilet paper happen frequently. People tend to horde these items when they are available.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Good beer, toilet paper, paper towel, detergent, dog food, baking goods (particularly white and brown sugar, specialty flours, cooking spray, evaporated milk, canned pumpkin and cranberries for the holidays), healthy/organic foods, maple syrup, very good tupperware, clothing and emergency supplies
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Plenty of the standard US fast food chains but very diminished menus and very inflated prices. Crappy Chinese food can cost up to $100 for 2. Dominoes has 2 for 1 on Mondays and Tuesday, but it's still like US$20 for a single pizza.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Not too bad, though some people have problems with ants and "animalitos" in flour and other grocery items if not kept in the fridge/freezer.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
DPO and pouch
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
About $15 a day and generally very good. Most of the domestics are from Colombia.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There is a small but functional gym at the embassy. There are also very expensive athletic clubs.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Don't use credit cards and ATMs because of widespread cloning. The airport is notorious for this.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Most people use DirectTV Puerto Rico for about US$50 per month, depending on the package
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
You need a lot, if you ever leave your apartment.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
This is the least walkable city in all of Latin America in our experience. Sidewalks are spotty and, when available, are in such poor condition that even people without disabilities have problems walking on them.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
We're not allowed to take the metro, trains and buses. We take only approved taxis and only rarely since they often charge you the gringo price. Note that taxis can be very dangerous here too.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
The biggest 4x4 that you can find that isn't 8 cylinders. Gas is incredibly cheap here; you can fill a small SUV here for under US$1.Parts are poor-quality and expensive, so bring your own.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Bad speed, unreliable and expensive
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Embassy employees get issued a phone. Spouses use pay-as-you-go. Purchasing them is a pain, since you can't get one until you're accredited which can take anywhere from 1-6 months.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No.
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
It's okay. There are some very good vets, unfortunately they are not on the list the embassy recommends.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
No.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Business.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
YES. This is one of the most dangerous cities in the world. Crime is rampant and the embassy community is not immune. Crime happens everywhere, all the time in Caracas. The embassy community has even had an employee killed. In the area where most embassy families live, there are armed robberies of apartment buildings, kidnappings for ransom, shootings in frequented restaurants, etc. Crime is no joke here, and the police are completely helpless or even complicit on some occasions.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Doctors are good but nursing standards leave much to be desired. Waiting anywhere from 1-4 hours at a doctor's appointment is standard. There is no public ambulance service--you can purchase private service.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Usually good. Now it's very bad due to fires on El Avila, which usually happens every 2-3 years.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
It's like a pleasant summer day year round. There are rainy and dry seasons, but this year the dry season has been very long (which, in turn, is causing a serious water and electricity crisis).
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
ECA and another school. Most people use ECA and are generally happy with it, but we can't speak from experience. With the new education law, we wouldn't be comfortable keeping our children enrolled in school here.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Most people use nannies--they are cheap and usually good, with a few bad apples. A few people use daycares. Some have expressed concern about the children to adult ratio.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Don't know but it's shrinking
2. Morale among expats:
Terrible. This is a tough post, as evidenced by comments above.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Mostly in apartments. There are a few decent restaurants, though customer service is poor.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
It used to be a good place for singles but, with rampant crime, singles tend to stay in the "bubble." Since it's not so safe to go out, it's become more family-oriented as people tend to entertain at home. In general, this is not a good city for anyone.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Venezuela is generally not that good for gays/lesbians. There have been reports of hate crimes, even perpetrated by members of the police force.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
No serious racial or gender problems that we're aware of. But, this society has become very anti-semitic. The Jewish population has been severely diminished during the last 10 years. It's also not a good place to be from the United States, Israel, many European countries and even Canada of all places. If your country has ever criticized anything about Venezuela, you're marked.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Los Roques and Morrocoy National Park for beaches. Before the devaluation, travel anywhere was cheap. Now it's rediculously expensive to travel anywhere.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
El Avila (do the Teleferico once in a large group, but go back again in a 4x4 and visit the restaurants) in the Caracas area, and Los Roques, Angel Falls, and Merida outside Caracas
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Chocolate, rum, Murano-style glass, wood from Lara state
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Nice beaches (but terrible tourist infrastructure to enjoy them) and great weather but honestly not much else.
11. Can you save money?
In the past, yes. Now, no.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Never.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Winter clothes and expectations that this is like the rest of Latin America
3. But don't forget your:
Flashlights and emergency supplies(for power and water outages), stuff to keep you entertained at home
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
6. Do you have any other comments?
I am typically a positive person, so it pains me to write such a scathing review. Caracas and Venezuela beats the positive out of you.
