Caracas, Venezuela Report of what it's like to live there - 09/15/10
Personal Experiences from Caracas, Venezuela
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
This is my first expat experience.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Washington, DC. About 8 hours by plane with one stop. Flights to Caracas connect through Miami, Atlanta, Houston, and Puerto Rico.
3. How long have you lived here?
I have been living here for 1 year.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
U.S. Embassy.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
All apartments. Practically the entire embassy community now lives in Valle Arriba, due to security concerns and issues those that the other side of the freeway have been having with water and security. The embassy is phasing out units in San Roman. Most members of the community have a commute of 5 minutes or less. The embassy does a terrible job of maintenance of the apartments. I've heard of a few families having major issues with mold, with very little action by the embassy.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Caracas just became a consumables post due to running shortages. Supplies have been good leading up to the election, but that is likely to go away again here shortly. Things that have been difficult to find/buy in the past: milk (boxed/UHT and fresh), butter, toilet paper, paper towels, eggs, basically all dairy products. Any specialty items are imported (if they're available at all). Many embassy community members end up using Amazon grocer, Netgrocer, or CVS.com for basic non-perishable items.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Consumables: paper goods, non-perishable items. Anything you're tied to in the States.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
McDonald's, Burger King, Wendy's, Dominos, Papa John's, Pizza Hut. All are about 1.5-2x what you would spend in the US.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Lots of mosquitoes and a recent rise in the chipo population. Mosquitoes carry dengue, and chipos carry mala chagas. Neither of which will kill you, but you're not going to feel so hot for a couple of weeks.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
The embassy does have a DPO system and Pouch. About 2 months ago the DPO system was ransacked, and most items being shipped to Caracas were stolen before reaching the embassy. Both systems are unreliable. Locals use FedEx or DHL to send to/from the U.S.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Cheap. About $12.50 a day for someone to come to your house to clean and sometimes cook. I've heard live-ins cost about twice that.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
The embassy has a decent gym with all of the basic equipment. Private gyms are available, but are very expensive.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
DO NOT use credit cards or ATM cards in Venezuela. There are currently about 5 exchange rates (3 official, the airport rate, and the black market). This is a cash economy. Most people who have access to dollars exchange offshore to be able to get access to local currency. The embassy operates on the lowest exchange rate, which would be impossible to live on.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
There are a few, mostly non-denominational. Otherwise, in Spanish you can find just about anything: Catholic, Lutheran, Evangelical, Mormon, 7th Day Adventist.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
There are none locally. The embassy has access to DirecTV Puerto Rico. It's about $40 per month.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Everything is done in Spanish here. While most Venezuelans learn basic English in school, they do not use it. You cannot survive here without knowing Spanish.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
This is not an accessible city and it is not safe to walk anywhere outside of the neighborhood where the embassy is located. You will drive everywhere you go. Sidewalks (and roads for that matter) are very poorly maintained.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
You will drive your personal vehicle everywhere. There are 3 companies the embassy trusts for taxi service due to security concerns. You will never take a bus or train while you are here.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
You need to bring an SUV. Road maintenance is terrible, there are many rough patches on roads, and speed bumps are everywhere. You'll also want the darkest tint you can put on your car, as drive-by robberies on motorcycles are common if they see something they like in your vehicle.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
DSL is available through the government-owned telecom company, CanTV. It's fairly slow and unreliable, but some streaming can be done on a good day.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
The embassy provides each employee with one cell phone. The local companies make it hard for family members to get prepaid phones, but with a little work it can be figured out.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
None whatsoever. It is nearly impossible for expats to work on the local economy without some special reason or connection.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
This is the Caribbean. Venezuelans are very casual. Embassy dress is usually business dress.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
A recent New York Times article listed Caracas as more dangerous than Iraq. 16,000 - 18,000 murders last year. This is not a place you can walk freely, and you are always at risk because the majority of crimes are those of opportunity. Many members of the embassy community have been victims of crime. One member even has a bullet hole in their car as the remnant of an assassination of a parking attendant that was helping them back out onto a busy street.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Medical care is above average. There are some American-trained doctors, and the embassy does keep a list of those recommended and those that speak English.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
The air quality would likely be considered moderate. There are times of the year where the heat keeps the pollution in the valley (where the city is located) and during the dry season fires cause smoke to hover around the city.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
80-90 degrees everyday. There is a wet season (May-Sep) and a dry season (Oct-Apr).
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
ECA is the school where the majority of children go. It is a good school, and families seems to be very happy with the education their children are receiving.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Medium. Mostly diplomats and those in the oil industry. All international companies have started to pull Americans and other non-Venezuelans out. Procter & Gamble pulled it's final American out earlier this year.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Going out to dinner is fairly cheap (at the black market rate). American first-run movies are often available.
3. Morale among expats:
Among the American community, low. We are isolated from the rest of the expat community, so it is hard to say where morale is for them.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Families seem to be happiest here. There is a large community now of families with small children. Apartments are large and get-togethers are frequent, keeping families from having to deal with the urge to go out; and thus not having to deal with the security situation as often.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
My few homosexual friends tell me that being "out" in Venezuela is still quite Taboo. Regardless, there are still clubs and gathering spots for them to meet.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
There are sections of the society that are anti-semitic, but there's also a sizable Jewish population. Other than that the country is typical Latin America, Catholic, but for the most part secular.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Visiting parts of the country outside of Caracas. Angel Falls, Canaima National Park, and Morrocoy National Park have been some major highlights.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Angel falls, Morrocoy, Canaima National Park.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Glass art, paintings, and woodwork. These are 3 of the few handicrafts that can still be found.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
This is one of the most beautiful countries in the world, it's just too bad the Venezuelans don't take care of it.
11. Can you save money?
Yes, if you're able to exchange at the black market rate, you'll be able to save some money. Many Americans end up shopping online a lot, and spend what they could save as a way to cope with what we deal with here.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Not a chance. I'd rather go somewhere where I knew what I was getting into. Venezuela is never the same, everyday presents a new challenge, and it's nearly impossible to ever reach the plateau stage of culture shock because something is always changing here.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
idea that this is like the rest of Latin America, and the thought that you'll be safe here. This is a hardship post, and you will be ready to leave by the time you're done. Also, leave behind your American credit cards, dollars, and jewelry.
3. But don't forget your:
Don't forget those activities you like to do inside. You'll spend a lot of time in your apartment and those of others. Also, beach gear is a must, as that's one of the few good reasons to get out of Caracas.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
Secuestro Express.
