Nouakchott, Mauritania Report of what it's like to live there - 12/30/24
Personal Experiences from Nouakchott, Mauritania
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Yes.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
USA. Direct flights to most cities from either Istanbul or Paris, which are direct flights from Nouakchott.
FYI, Nouakchott is very constrained flight wise; it feels like an island. There are no direct flights to Dubai and no direct flights to any other European city outside of Paris and Istanbul. There is a direct flight to Casa Blanca and some other north-African locations, but these are not major flight hubs.
3. What years did you live here?
2021 - 2023
4. How long have you lived here?
Two long years.
5. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic mission, first tour in the Foreign Service. The vast majority of people scrolling this page along with the vast majority of American embassy employees in Nouakchott were/are first tour Foreign Service in Nouakchott, with a smattering of second tour.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Gargantuan houses that are impractical with many problems. Some are within walking distance to the Embassy; ask for these! Many homes have extremely tinted windows, which depresses people.
The Embassy flipped the housing pool and it helped, but be prepared for a lot of strange stuff from windows that are not sealed, to pests, power outages/fluctuations, etc...
FYI, Nouakchott has no sewer system, period. Ponder that.
Nouakchott rarely has blackouts but cannot maintain constant voltage, so your generator will turn on and disturb you or your neighbors. Neighbors have gotten belligerently angry.
The Embassy often delivers raw water because it runs out from the city's pipes... your non-potable raw water comes via an aqueduct from the Senegal River. Yes, there have been days' long outages.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
If you can shop in the local meat store, local vegetable store, etc... it is fairly cheap, but spoils quickly.
There are no real full service supermarkets. The closest things to that sell fairly expensive, niche imported foods.
People lost weight because they could not figure out how to shop, cook, eat out, etc... for the first weeks or months. There is no delivery service like Grubhub.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
I utilized my consumables shipment and so should you. While you can find household cleaners, paper towels, flour, etc... the products are often of much lower quality, in much lower quantities, for the same or higher prices.
It is so inconvenient to drive around town due to the bumper car style of driving, lack of paved roads, lack of parking, not finding what you need, heat, dust, etc... that it behooves you to stock up in your consumables.
Remember, if you don't consume it, the vast majority of consumables, like spaghetti sauce, or olive oil, can be shipped to your next post in your HHE!
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
French style brunches are nice. Paul's opened up and it was an event... then I found out Paul's is just a normal French chain.
Anyway, the restaurants come and go, often going out of business. Strangely, they are often closed when you visit them. Then, when you do visit them, it takes half an hour or more to get food.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Those little lids surrounding your house and that big cistern with a lid on top that you park your car over... they're full of your poop.
The embassy does their best to clean out the very shallow system draining your waste into your cistern, but given the heat and proximity to your drains, roaches are a problem.
Oh, and let's not forget mosquitoes! Good God, there are more mosquitoes in Nouakchott than Louisiana, despite the desert. Absolutely awful and highly recommend installing mosquito nets and purchasing mosquito killing tennis rackets.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
The Management Team made DPO work, but either DPO or Diplomatic Pouch.
No local postal facilities, lol!
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Affordable but all hosed up. Your helpers are Africans that are often not from Mauritania.
There is an inexplicable lack of ability to cook something as basic as fried chicken or pasta. Helpers should be closely supervised and trained.
However, having someone clean your home at least a few times a week is mandatory! Your home will fill up with sand, ants, and bugs otherwise, not to mention your porch/sidewalks. There is simply too much sand and filth in the air.
3. Do you feel that it is safe to walk, run or hike outside? Are there areas where bike riding is possible? What is the availability and safety of outdoor space for exercising? Are these easily accessible?
Walking around during the day is okay... but there is only one place to walk to, the embassy. Walking at night is prohibited and for good reason.
Look, it will feel like a two year, minimum security prison sentence with only two places to go to, the embassy and Sultan Beach. Sure, you can go to some restaurants and a cute market on Saturdays, but that is about it.
I personally wandered around the sole neighborhood in town that has paved roads/sidewalks, but it was eerie. I was one of the only people walking and half the homes seemed vacant. The main streets get lively in the evenings, so I liked that... but until you get to the 'Chott, you simply cannot imagine it.
4. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Only the embassy gym.
5. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
No. Cash is king. I would not use a credit card in this country.
6. What English-language religious services are available locally?
None really. There are some Protestant bible studies/praying sessions, but these come and go.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
You need French, and even then, sadly, the use of French is declining. Sad because the Arabic that is spoken in Mauritania is barely understood by any Arab from the Arabian peninsula or even North Africa.
I digress; point being, you need French or will be completely isolated.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Of course.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
They are off limits. The local taxis looked like burned out, bombed out 80s Mercedes from Black Hawk Down. People share these things...
2. What kind of vehicle(s) including electric ones do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, infrastructure, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car or vehicles do you advise not to bring?
You can get by with a sedan, but won't be able to go on sand. Sedans can handle the potholed, mashed up, dirt roads.
If you're an expat with money, ship in a Toyota SUV.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, all residences have fiber internet.
In my opinion, this is an awful posting, with the flip side being that the embassy seems to hold people's hands much more. So the Embassy facilitated/facilitates fiber activation.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Google Fi, keep it. The embassy will provide a work phone and help your EFM subscribe to a personal phone.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
People bring dogs, and I suppose it keeps them sane. That said having a pet looks challenging.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Plenty of unfilled jobs at the Embassy.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Probably, but you'll be getting worked to the bone because you'll probably do the job of two to three people in an extreme hardship environment where nothing makes sense.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Islamic Republic of Mauritania... what does that mean?
The place is the closest I have seen to an anarcho-libertarian country with an Islamic twist. Some women do show skin, and the beach can get pretty wild compared to the Middle East, but overall, cover the shoulders and the legs.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
10 feet tall concrete walls with double strand concertina wire and a security guard for every house must be there for a reason. Locals report armed home invasions and when it gets ugly, it gets ugly, (I've heard) picture people being torn out of cars because they are the wrong race (true story).
That said, on a daily basis, if you stick to the embassy area; secure all valuable belongings; and maintain a hard target, you'll be left alone. No American during my tenure ever had any issues... well, except for the neighbor who used a machete to hack a generator apart that was upsetting him due to the noise.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
You will be Medevaced for anything requiring surgical care. There are clinics that can sew you up, and the military hospital might help you...
This place is medieval. Never in my life have I seen a place where people, locals and Americans, get sick with mysterious diseases like its 1101 AD. We had people with horrible chest pains (unexplainable), livers that looked like they were failing in lab reports (unexplainable), and coughs lasting months. The whole country has had Covid a few times...
If you are over 50, seriously, think twice before coming. If you have very young children, thick twice before coming. I can think of specific people, with real problems caused by Nouakchott, in those categories, that were in seriously bad situations due to the filth, dust, viruses, etc... of the place.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Bad!
Full of sand in the air, compounded by dirt roads. Pollution is manageable due to the wind, but the cars, generators, etc... are filthy polluters. There were many days where the sky turned red; it got oven hot; and you could barely see 10 feet in front of you.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
Seriously reconsider bidding on this place. If you have asthma or anything close, it will seriously mess you up.
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
Depression from tinted windows in homes; ground-hog day blues from doing the same thing over and over again; the place feels like an isolated outpost at the end of the world...
People are often overworked too.
Look, I am not sugar coating Nouakchott like so many other posts here do because you need to get in the right frame of mind to survive. If you go in thinking like the last poster here who called it a "gem," you will be shocked and may crack. Multiple people simply break mentally, including non-DoS.
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Windy, though still in the hot summers. Overall, very hot most of the year, with some really burning days, but it does cool to the mid 20s for a few months in the winter.
Pleasant evening and nights, particularly on your house rooftop.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Check out the school reports. Basically, a struggling and frankly mediocre American school that tries but can't really hack it. A solid French school, but how many people can really go for that?
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
None really, they do what they can.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
There are a couple of really good ones that are way cheaper than AISN, but with much better educators. Prunelle is one, of course all French, but great, and great as a French exposure.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
I don't think so...
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
It is definitely there, and just big enough to make friends, without being stifling.
Overall, morale is good because expats either embrace the suck, drink/swim at Sultan's beach, and somehow make it... or they crack and leave. There is definitely an esprit de corps among expats because of how jacked up the place is.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
I worked my but off in the 'Chott and did not socialize much.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
I was surprised how many single men found girlfriends, really surprised! Compared to much more developed locales, somehow folks found a friend.
Come to think of it, Nouakchott led to some divorces and some marriages. One of those places oddly enough.
However, to be clear, no bars to speak of or many venues. A couple of restaurants, Sultan's beach, and house parties.
4. Is it easy to make friends with locals here? Are there any prejudices or any ethnic groups who might feel uncomfortable here?
People can say what they want, but I made good professional and personal bonds with Mauritanians. A good bunch, God fearing, and the best part, just as self deprecating of Mauritania as you are.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Not on the face of it. Sharia law is in effect.
However, Mauritania is close to anarchy in many ways. Something tells me if you need a gay friend, you will find one, provided you do not show your affection in public.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
People can also say what they want about this topic, but bottom line, I thought the Arabs and Black Africans got/get along very well all things considering.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Saved a lot of money, got promoted. Liked trips to the dunes outside town and Sultan's beach.
Look, it was a minimum security prison experience that paid well. I actually miss it now, but it was hard as heck on my body, mind, and soul...
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
No, haha.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Nope.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Short commute...
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
How difficult it would be. What real, pervasive, poverty and lack of development look like.
How much I should appreciate modern fundamentals like sewers, constant electricity, and municipal garbage pick up.
How hard it would be on my family.
Oh, and all you read about Mauritania online, which is barely anything, is slavery, slavery, and more slavery. You imagine Black Africans and Arabs must be at each other's throats. I saw no slavery and everyone got along as best they could... there were some incidents, but much more peaceful than what you imagine.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes, but only because of the very high pay differential.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Western, Judeo-Christian yardsticks for measuring ethics and morality.
4. But don't forget your:
Ability to adapt, overcome, and succeed.
In the words of Lawrence of Arabia, which I am paraphrasing - better to let the Arabs do it their way, which is not yours, and perhaps not the best way, than to impose your way -
You have your standards, and should uphold some, but inflexibly upholding all of them is a recipe for frustration, anger, and failure.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
There are none, hahaha.
6. Do you have any other comments?
Other posts here greatly sugarcoat this place, or provide no real differentiation between the 'Chott and other places. They read as if the 'Chott and say Abu Dhabi could be similar, with the 'Chott being a little harder.
Folks, Nouakchott, Mauritania will test you! Make no mistake, even if you lived/were born in a less developed place than the US, Mauritania ain't Mexico, Honduras, the Philippines, or India. The place is medieval in many respects; very challenging; and if you make it, you will grow! Not all people make it though...
If hardship differentials were not capped at 35%, this place would easily be 50%... an SIP tour to Iraq or Pakistan is undoubtedly easier than a tour to the 'Chott.
