Caracas, Venezuela Report of what it's like to live there - 08/15/12
Personal Experiences from Caracas, Venezuela
Background:
1. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Washington, DC. Flights from Caracas go through Miami, Atlanta or Houston, so it's about 8 hours total to DC.
2. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
The contributor is afiliated with the U.S. Embassy and has been living in Caracas for just under two years, a sixth expat experience.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Everyone lives in high-rise apartments that are either falling apart or fixed with shoddy workmanship that comes back to bite. Some apartments have amenities such as balconies, pools, playgrounds or tennis courts. All will have a 'salon de fiesta' on the ground floor that you can be sure will be used for huge, LOUD, long-lasting parties. People who work at the embassy are placed very close, often within walking distance to work. Traffic is a major problem here, so you should make your commute time as short as possible if you have a choice of where to live.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Inflation has been a big problem, and my grocery bill doubled during my two-year tour. There is almost always a shortage of something important: milk, cooking oil, coffee, toilet paper, shampoo, etc. And stores tend to sell a product until their stock is gone, then not restock it again, so you may not want to be too hooked on certain brands or flavors. Food is not of the best quality and tends to be manhandled pretty badly, so you can expect bruised fruit, moldy tomatoes, cracked eggs, and sour yogurt. The grocery stores will repack chicken that has expired with a new expiration date and sell it.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
This is a consumables post, and we took advantage of that to stock up on liquids such as juices, olive oil, and shampoo. I bought few things locally and planned carefully to make sure that I ordered birthday presents, clothes, or anything else I needed through the internet ahead of time.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
I don't have much experience with fast food except I have stopped at McDonald's once. The quality was good, but I paid double or triple what I would have paid in the US. Malls seem to have American-style food courts, and you can get Domino's pizza in Valle Arriba. There are plenty of upscale restaurants with posh menus and settings. What is hard to find are mid-range places or any especially kid-friendly places.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Coming to a tropical, lush climate, I imagined many more insects than there are. Many people don't have screens and leave the windows open all day without a problem. There are mosquitoes around sunrise and sunset, though.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
There is both pouch and DPO here, which is a lifesaver.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
The cost of domestic help has also risen tremendously during my two years here, and a law was passed recently making firing your domestic help a financial burden. The going rate is about $500-600 / month for a live-in. There are plenty of housekeepers available but few that are worth either what you pay or the trouble. The local work ethic is disappointing. I was lucky to find a good housekeeper, but the stories I've heard from friends!
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
We rented a membership at the Valle Arriba Athletic Club, and I would highly recommend the same for families or athletic-minded people. The gym is top notch (be ready for some fun people-watching!) and the pool is a great place to hang out on the weekends. Several families from ECA have memberships there, so you and your kids will always run into friends. You'll have to ask the CLO to help you with a membership as the application process is serious business that will include providing references and having a social worker visit your home, among other things!
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Because of the official/unofficial exchange rate, if you use a credit card from the US, you'll pay double in the conversion. The one time I tried to use my ATM card, I found out that someone had captured my info and had withdrawn almost all my money from my account that same day.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Yes, there are Catholic services and surely others.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
We pay for DSTV and have access to BBC, CNN and some shows that are in English with Spanish subtitles. I don't know about newspapers in English.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Spanish is really important here, and you'll definitely need it to go shopping, to eat out or do anything outside the embassy. And this is not the Spanish you learned in school - this is a very Caribbean-slurry Spanish that can be tricky to understand.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
I would think it would be a nightmare to have a physical disability here, just based on the things I've seen. My mother-in-law has trouble with stairs, and there are at least a few stairs everywhere we go.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Not safe to use.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Gas is cheap and people tend to like the big SUVs here, even though the windy mountainous roads and tight streets make that very impractical. The roads are rough and so are the drivers, so I wouldn't bring a car that can't take a good beating or that you would hate to see scratched and dented.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, and the cost is reasonable.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
BlackBerries are the 'it' thing here. I got by without one just fine, though.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
I don't know. We adopted a pet from Venezuela, so we only have experience leaving with a pet.
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
I was happy with the vet we used.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
I think it's fairly easy to get a job as an English teacher, with or without training or credentials.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Women love their ridiculously high heels and tight, revealing clothes. 'Boob jobs' are as common an accessory as earrings or necklaces. Both men and women take fashion trends seriously and like to display brand names.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Huge. This is our second critical-crime post, but I definitely feel more nervous here. It does affect everything you do. Travel should only be done during daylight hours, and while sitting in traffic you should always be on guard for a motorcycle robbery (at any time day or night), etc. Even if you try to live your life without crime getting in the way, people will remind you of it all the time. As the political and economic situation here deteriorates, crime is only getting worse. Criminals are hardly ever prosecuted, and they are getting bolder.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Health care is acceptable, but be prepared to wait a long time for appointments. Most doctors see patients on a first-come first-served basis rather than at specific appointment times, but you have to work the 'system'. The locals seem to know how to call ahead on their way to the doctor and get their name on the wait list and be seen before someone that's been there, waiting long before. Besides the brain drain in the medical field, there are new laws allowing medical students with only a few years of training to be fully qualified doctors and practice in private hospitals, so I would be wary of this.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Surprisingly moderate considering the amount of traffic and the number of unregulated busses and cars.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
The climate is mild and enjoyable all year. Because the city is relatively high in altitude, it is cool and comfortable; but as you travel down to the airport, which is at sea level, the weather warms up.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
One of the main reasons we chose Caracas was because of the fantastic reputation of Escuela Campo Alegre. The year I arrived things apparently started to decline, though, and now I have mixed feelings about the school. I had three children in the elementary school, including twins with special needs. My youngest, who is normally very outgoing and popular, struggled her entire first year to make friends since she was put in a classroom with an already tight group of children and moms who already knew each other. The teacher acknowledged the problem but couldn't/wouldn't do anything to help. Even though the school is 'international' the vast majority are wealthy Venezuelans (with dual citizenship) and other Latin Americans, and this has changed the values and ambiance of the school. I've heard from several other parents---and it has been my own experience---that the school does not do enough to 'welcome' the new kids and make sure that the other students open up a bit to let them join in.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
My special-needs twins did have accommodations, and the resource person and teachers worked very hard to do what they could to give them the right learning environment. However, there were constant interruptions to the daily routine, which was NOT good for my children. Between school closures for holidays, floods, or presidential decrees --- and the numerous assemblies, parties, sports activities and special events (pajama day, spirit week, etc.), there were very few 'normal' weeks. My twins were very stressed out by this and by the curriculum, which was 'the most modern' but in my opinion, not right for them.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
I've heard of several preschools in the area that are more than adequate. No first hand experience, though.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
ECA has been trying to improve its sports program, and I think they have enough to offer. I've heard complaints, though, that some of the school coaches don't speak English, so that puts non-Spanish-speaking kids at a disadvantage. The athletic club also has sports programs for kids, but these are definitely in Spanish only.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Big but shrinking all the time. Besides the embassy, there are many American families here with Chevron, and this is a hub for several multi-national corporations.
2. Morale among expats:
Mostly low. Some people like it here, but most find the chaos, traffic, crime and terrible customer service too annoying. Although many of us agree that there are surely worse places in the world to be, there is just something in the air that makes this place hard to like.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Dinners out at restaurants or with friends. Daytime bbq's and birthday parties happen a lot around here. If your child is invited to a birthday party on a weekend, it is assumed that the entire family will come and make a day of it.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
It seems to be good for singles; for families, it can be good for people with elementary-school-age children since school can keep them busy enough. Parents of toddlers find the lack of safe play areas and yards frustrating, and parents of teenagers have to keep their kids at home or worry endlessly about them.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
I haven't seen any gay or lesbian couples in public, but I'm a mom that doesn't get out much.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
You'll probably come across the usual Latin machismo attitude. The bigger problem now is Chavistas vs non-Chavistas---or rich vs. poor.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
El Avila (either cable car or hiking); El Hatillo for a 1/2 day trip; plenty of shopping malls. I'm one who gets too frustrated with traffic, crime and whatever else would eventually spoil my excursion, and I gave up on exploring things pretty early on.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Venezuelan chocolates are delicious, and the orange-flavored rum is pretty nice!
9. Can you save money?
Only if you buy stuff from the States rather than locally and don't travel much.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
This is a good post to fulfill a hardship requirement without having to leave the family in the States, but it is a hard place to like.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
credit cards, bikes, jog strollers.
3. But don't forget your:
sense of humor and resilience.
4. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
Up! (only because the scenery in the movie is modeled after the Venezuelan tepuis.)
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
The Silence And The Scorpion.
6. Do you have any other comments?
Venezuelan culture is something between South American and Caribbean with some European thrown in. The people will tell you they are Italian, Spanish, or something else even if their families have been in Venezuela for several generations. I think the lack of a strong cultural heritage and history has negative effects on the people. The problems in their country are someone else's fault, not theirs. My guess is that Venezuela will need a lot of work before it can be great again.
