Caracas, Venezuela Report of what it's like to live there - 11/13/08
Personal Experiences from Caracas, Venezuela
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No. Have been posted in Panama, Peru, and twice in Israel.
2. How long have you lived here?
2.5 years.
3. Travel time and best routes to this city from Europe or the US:
From the U.S., it's best is to avoid American Airlines from Miami (frequenly delayed or cancelled) and go with Continental via Houston (4 hours) or Delta via Atlanta (same).
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
U.S. Embassy diplomatic dependent.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Embassy housing is all apartments, relatively spacious, with maids quarters and usually good views. Some buildings have pools, but not all.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
The exchange rate for the Bolivar has been artifically kept low by the government, though merchants and services calculate their prices at the parallel rate which is more than double the fixed rate. Most everything in Caracas - except for gasoline at 12 cents a gallon - is more expensive than in the U.S.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
The misguided economic polices of the Chavez regime have virtually killed off any local industry, and the country lives on imports. If there is a crisis or shortage, you can go months without finding staples: milk, meat, chicken, toilet paper, medication. I would have shipped lots of toilet paper, paper towels, cleaning materials.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Any and all U.S. fast food franchies available here, pluls a plethora of decent restaurants. Note, however, that a Happy Meal at McDonalds currently costs (late 2008) about US$10 and a plain cheese pizza from Dominos is US$37.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Courier services - DHL or Fedex. There is no home mail delivery in Caracas.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Domestic help is generally poor and expensive, again by Latin American standards.
3. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Your U.S. ATM card will be virtually useless here, and out of control cloning and credit card fraud makes using a card unadvisable.
4. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Yes, Catholic and Anglican.
5. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Cable TV is available with U.S. channels. No local availabilty of U.S. newspapers, but you can find (expensive) copies of U.S. newsweeklies like Time and Newsweek.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
You need some Spanish language ability as very few people in Venezuela speak English.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Don't even bother to come. Absolutely no thought or accommodation given to any physical disabilities.
Transportation:
1. Do you drive on the right hand side of the road or the left?
Right side, just as in the U.S.
2. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
No trains, buses are scarce, crowded, and not safe. Radio-taxis are available and are safe, but expensive by Latin American standards.
3. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
You can fill your tank with pocket change, so this is the only country I know of where having a Hummer makes perfect sense! Streets are in bad repair in Caracas, so a high-clearance 4WD vehicle is a must.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, you can get ADSL or Cable internet for about US$50 a month.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
You can get one locally.
3. What is the best way to make phone calls back home?
Skype or Vonage.
Pets:
1. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
There is pet care here - epxensive but available.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
No.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Long pants always, suit and tie at work.
Health & Safety:
1. Pollution index (Good, Moderate, Unhealthy, or Very Unhealthy)?
Good - a breeze sweeps through the Caracas valley and keeps it remarkably clean.
2. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Caracas has a higher murder rate than almost anywhere else. A very dangerous city.
3. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Health care is decent, but there is no public ambulance service - if you get sick at home you need to get yourself to the hospital or subscribe to a home health service such as Rescarven which will send a doctor to your house within a couple of hours of being called for approx. US$400/year.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Best weather on the planet - springlike every day of the year. Always between 65-85 degrees every day.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
2 international schools: Escuela Campo Alegre and Colegio Internacional de Caracas. ECA is where the vast majority of Embassy dependents go, and is a first rate school. Truly excellent, and one of the outstanding features of Caracas.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
ECA will make accommodations - a very flexible and caring institution.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
"Nidos" are widely available, and people with small kids seem happy with the care.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Relatievely limited, and getting smaller. Expat businesses are being driven out of Venezuela by Chavez and the community is collapsing rapidly.
2. Morale among expats:
Poor. Life in Venezuela is hard - everthing is unpredictable, from traffic to prices to the availabilty of food. This plus the security situation and simple lack of things to do erodes morale seriously. Plan on quarterly or more trips out of Venezuela to recharge your batteries.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
If you like clubbing and barhopping, Caracas is great. Otherwise, some dinner parties and smaller events, but spending 2 hours in traffic to go 5 miles is a tremendous disincentive to socializing.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Not particularly. Expensive, dangerous, and - believe it or not - boring. Not much going on outside of malls and restuarants as the rich fly to Miami for culture and entertainment, and the poor have no option.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
There is an active gay community in Caracas, but not too overt.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Venezuelans share the same prejudices as most Latins against black-skinned people.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
In Caracas? Movies, malls, restaurants. Venezuela is a great country for nature lovers who are willing to "rough it," but Caracas is not a fun city in any respect.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Chavez souvenirs - tee shirts, watches, dolls. There is no industry or culture in Venezuela, so no local products to acquire.
9. Can you save money?
If you buy nothing, do not go out, yes. If you live normally, no.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
No.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Cold weather clothing.
3. But don't forget your:
Cash, patience, and sense of humor.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Unlike most of Latin America, Venezuela has no noted poets, authors, or cultural figures. Similar to other Petrocracies in that way.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Unlike most of Latin America, Venezuela has no noted poets, authors, or cultural figures. Similar to other Petrocracies in that way.
6. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
The best would be to rent "Secuestro Express," about an express kidnapping in Caracas. Happens dozens of times daily.
7. Do you have any other comments?
Those who lived in Venezuela in the 1950's or 1960's thought this country was paradise. Since the late 1990s, corruption, political chaos, and crime have driven off much of the educated class and eliminated local investment, leaving Venezuela with all the typical Latin American problems (crime, crumbling infrastructure) without any commensurate advantages (it's not cheap, it's not charming, and there's not much to do beyond spend money at the mall).If you come, make sure you do so with the right expectations.
