Yekaterinburg, Russia Report of what it's like to live there - 02/17/20
Personal Experiences from Yekaterinburg, Russia
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Prior to living in Yekaterinburg, we had been posted in Matamoros, Mexico, and Riga, Latvia. We were also both Peace Corps Volunteers in rural Bulgaria.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Our home base is in Indiana. Door to door, it took my daughter and me 27 hours to get there last summer, on two flights with a connection in Finland. Sadly, the direct Yekaterinburg-Helsinki flight has been discontinued, so now we must use three flights to get home, connecting through Moscow and then somewhere else in Europe. The flight to Moscow is approximately two and a half hours, and there are many daily flights.
3. How long have you lived here?
A year and a half.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic mission at the US consulate.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Housing is a large apartment in the city center. We have an open concept living/dining room and kitchen, two large bedrooms, den/office, and 1.5 bathrooms. Our housing is comparable to that of other colleagues. All consulate housing is within a 10-15 minute walk of the consulate.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Root vegetables (potatoes, carrots, beets), onions, and cabbage are always available and always very inexpensive. In summer months, fresh produce is plentiful and inexpensive. In the winter, we can still get usually the same produce as in summer, but some things are much more expensive, such as berries and peppers, as they are imported from far away. Things like avocados and sweet potatoes are always expensive, no matter the time of year, and can be more difficult to find. As far as dry goods are concerned, things like grains (rice, buckwheat) and legumes (lentils, dry beans) are plentiful and inexpensive. Quinoa is available but expensive. Meat and fish are widely available, as are cheese, eggs, and dairy. We eat as vegan as possible, and it is sometimes difficult, especially when we go out to restaurants, but it's not impossible to maintain this diet in Yekaterinburg. Many grocery stores are within walking distance of housing and the consulate. There is also a large Costco-like store called Metro, approximately 15 minutes' drive from hour home, next to IKEA, another huge grocery store called Ashan, and a large mall. Malls are ubiquitous here!
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
We can order things we cannot find locally through diplomatic pouch, and the things we usually order are foods to supplement our vegan diet that we are not able to find here (nutritional yeast, miso, etc.), and hair care products, as my daughter and I have curly hair. We did sent some items with our HHE, and I wish we had sent more almond butter, brown sugar, and powdered sugar, as these items are expensive or not the same quality locally.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Within walking distance, we have a very good Chinese restaurant, Georgian restaurant, and several pizza places. There are also many, many burger places, and of course Russian cuisine is plentiful. Many restaurants have delivery services. About a mile from our home is a large, very nice mall, with many restaurants as well. American fast food restaurants and chains include Burger King, McDonalds, KFC, Starbucks, Papa John's, Baskin Robbins, and Subway. Even though tea is the national drink (and there is plenty of tea to be found), coffee shops are also ubiquitous.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
No. (It's too cold for much of the year for any insects!) Outside the city, mosquitoes can be a nuisance, and ticks are a problem in wooded areas. It is recommended to have a tick encephalitis vaccine.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Yekaterinburg is a diplomatic pouch post. We receive mail from the US typically within two to three weeks of it being sent. Outgoing pouch mail goes only once a month and also takes about two to three weeks to arrive. We have no experience with local postal facilities.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Housekeepers are certainly available for hire, but we do not have one, so cannot comment on the cost. We do have a nanny who comes three mornings a week for child care, and we pay her 500 rubles per hour (approximately US$8). There is a nanny service that the consulate can recommend (with full time nannies for those who need it), and the rates are much lower than what we pay. (We found our nanny through a local employee and we love her and trust her completely, so are happy to pay a bit more.)
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There is a wonderful gym, World Class Fitness, a five-minute walk from our apartment. It is very modern, and very clean. It includes all of the typical workout machines (bikes, treadmills, ellipticals, stair master), and weight machines and free weights. There is a variety of fitness classes included with one's membership, including classes for children/child care so that you can drop your child in a class while you have a workout. There is also a swimming pool, children's pool, and Turkish bath (hammam) in the pool area. The men's and women's locker rooms each have a Finnish sauna as well- so nice for warming up before going back out into the cold. The locker rooms are always clean and well attended. Trainers are available for one-to-one instruction/coaching for an extra fee, comparable to trainer's fees in the US. The monthly membership for an adult averages about US$65 per month. The only drawback is that you have to pay for an entire year's membership upfront (about US$850), and children require a membership as well (about US$225 per year). The gym also has a cafe, and massage therapy services. This is only one of many gyms in the area, but is the one most used by consulate employees.
The basement of the consulate building houses a very small gym as well, free to all consulate staff and family members. It includes a treadmill, elliptical machine, free weights, showers and Finnish sauna.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Yes, credit cards are widely accepted and safe to use. We also use Apple Pay on our phones frequently. ATMs are very common, and as long as they are connected with a bank, they are safe to use. Consulate employees can also write checks and get local currency from the cashier at the consulate.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
None that we are aware of. The expat community is very, very small here. Most churches are Russian Orthodox, and there is a small Catholic Church just about 100 meters' walk from the consulate.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
English is not widely spoken in Yekaterinburg. It is definitely beneficial to have a basic grasp on shopping vocabulary, for example. There are indeed tutors available through the consulate.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Yes. Ramps are not nearly as common as in the US and stairs are everywhere (and in winter months, those stairs are often icy). The consulate occupies the third and fourth floors of the building in which it is housed and there is no elevator. We do not have physical disabilities, but it can be challenging getting around town pushing our daughter's stroller, so I imagine having physical disabilities would be very difficult.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Yes, and yes. We hardly use public transportation because almost everything we need is within walking distance, and taxis are inexpensive. We use the Gett or Yandex (similar to Uber and Lyft) apps on our phones to order taxis. There is usually an option to order a taxi with a carseat, but the carseats vary widely (sometimes they are just a booster).
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
If you bring a car, you will need winter tires (which can be purchased locally). Most consulate employees do not have cars. We brought ours, a Honda Civic, because it was shipped directly from our previous post, but often we wish we hadn't. We hardly use it, maybe once a month. We have to start the engine every week to ensure the battery doesn't die (especially in winter months), and it has died once already. It is handy to have a car, however, if you envision traveling outside the city frequently.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, high speed internet is available and inexpensive. Internet was already working in our apartment when we arrived.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Consulate employees are provided an iPhone through a local provider. I (the EFM) kept my home-country plan through T-Mobile. I did purchase a local phone here, but found myself never using it. Everyone uses WhatsApp, so I only use my US phone now, with WhatsApp to stay in contact with local friends/contacts.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
We have a large dog, whom we brought with us. There is no quarantine, and people are generally friendly toward dogs here (many locals have dogs). There is a very nice vet who makes house calls, both for regular check-ups and vaccines, and for health concerns. One thing to keep in mind is that while in the US, vets will give dogs (and cats?) a three-year rabies vaccine, Russia does not recognize this three-year vaccine. So, you will want to make sure your pet receives a yearly vaccine while in Russia, even if s/he has received the three-year vaccine in the US, just in case you find yourself in a situation of needing to leave the country suddenly. If the pet does not have a current rabies vaccine as recognized by Russia, s/he will not be able to travel. Pet stores and supplies are widely available and cost is comparable to in the US. Protection from fleas/ticks is highly recommended in summer months.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
For EFMs, there are opportunities to work at the consulate, full-time or part-time. I recommend having a security clearance in advance of coming to post, if possible. Russian labor laws do not allow spouses of diplomats to work locally.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
At work - suits/dresses are typical when meeting with contacts, but can be less formal for quieter work days. In public places, dress codes are comparable to that in the US. Russians generally tend to dress up to go out, especially women. Formal dress may be required for some receptions or events, and is common but not required for attending things like ballet or opera performances.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
No personal security concerns here; Yekaterinburg is a safe city and safe post. It is important to note, however, that one should have no expectation of privacy here, including at home when talking amongst family members.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
No particular health concerns to note. The quality of medical care is adequate for most things. I had arthroscopic knee surgery here, and had a very pleasant experience, and am very pleased with the results of the surgery. For those needing or wanting comprehensive or state-of-the-art medical services, there are excellent services in Moscow. Pharmacies are ubiquitous and carry every medication we have ever needed. Prescriptions can also be filled through Express Scripts if needed. The RMO from Moscow makes quarterly trips to post. Otherwise, we have two local Russian doctors, one of whom is a pediatrician), who come to the consulate once a week.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Air quality is moderate. In the city center, it can be bad at times due to traffic, but I have been able to run outside with no big breathing issues. Seasonal allergies can be a problem for some. Generally, air quality does not have a negative impact on health, as far as I know.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
Medications like Claritin and Zyrtec are readily available; epi-pens are not. It is prohibited for anyone other an a doctor to administer use of an epi-pen in Russia, so if you require one, you must bring it with you to post (and back-ups). There are a couple of epi-pens in the health unit at the consulate.
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
Seasonal Affective Disorder can definitely be an issue here, as the winters are very long and dark. It is also easy to feel isolated here, because the post is so small. Currently, I am the only EFM at post, and that has been a bit difficult. Of course, people are always changing, so hard to say whether I will still be the only EFM six months from now.
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Winter typically begins with a first snowfall in late September or early October, and lasts until late April, when the snow finally melts. Typical daytime high winter temperatures tend to range from single digits to low 20s, Fahrenheit, with some days being well below 0. Many locals have told us that the past two winters (the only two we have experienced so far) have been unusually mild. Snow generally remains on the ground from late October until late April. There is brief spring for a what seems like a couple of weeks, and then summers (June-August) are very pleasant, with daytime high temperatures usually in the 70s with low humidity. Autumn seems to last only a few weeks and is cool.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
There are no international schools at post. It is not recommended for school-aged children to come to Yekaterinburg (unless you'd like for them to attend a local Russian school).
2. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
There are preschools, which are called kindergartens here. Children can attend them typically beginning at age two. Our daughter is currently two, but she does not yet attend a kindergarten. She does go to a small English-language preschool for one hour a week, with me. This preschool is the only one of its kind (English-language) in the area. There is also a Montessori school that my friend sometimes attends with her son, but I don't know much about it.
3. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Yes, these are plentiful. Our two year-old daughter currently takes ballet classes at a local ballet school for young children, and she is very happy there.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Let's be real: How many expats do you think live in the Urals? :) The expat community is very small here. The U.S. consulate has fewer than 10 American staff members. The British consulate as one employee. Other consulates include German, Bulgarian, Hungarian, Ukrainian, Czech, Chinese, Vietnamese, and Uzbek. If you attend the diplomatic receptions and national days hosted by these consulates, you will get to know the small expat community members, which is nice and a bit unique. The overall morale is positive - the American staff is a close-knit team that works well together and is supported by a WONDERFUL local staff.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
We get together regularly for dinners, birthday parties, and other holidays, usually at a restaurant or at someone's house. I am not aware of any groups or clubs.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
It is a good city for everyone except families with school-aged children, because there is no international school.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
No. Despite the fact that younger Russians are more open, the LGBT community is frequently targeted and subject to harassment by the Orthodox church and the government. I've heard that some LGBT activists have been assaulted and even killed, and even LGBT student allies have been scrutinized by university leaders. It is illegal to discuss or support LGBT issues among minors in Russia.
5. Is it easy to make friends with locals here? Are there any prejudices or any ethnic groups who might feel uncomfortable here?
Yes and no. Our feeling is the people in Yekaterinburg generally tend to be friendlier than in Moscow, but Russian culture can generally be a bit shy. This not true of everyone, of course, and we have made a few local friends, mostly through playgroups and ballet classes that our daughter attends. Yekaterinburg is a mix of Russians and Central Asians. There is a very small community of African university students. Otherwise, there is not much diversity in the city at all. Our daughter is Black, and people stare at us when we are out in public, and often ask to take photos of our daughter, which is unpleasant for us. Generally, people are very complimentary toward her, and seem only to be curious, but sometimes, the staring is bothersome. Yekaterinburg was a closed city for many years, and there is not a lot of diversity; therefore, anything that is out of the ordinary tends to attract staring.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
See above.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
We took a trip last summer to Lake Baikal. It was unforgettable and something we'd highly recommend for anyone serving in Russia.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
There are many museums for those who like art and history, and there are many, many theaters as well. Yekaterinburg has a wonderful philharmonic, and its beautiful opera house is home to the Ural ballet company, which is excellent. There are several parks within the city, and several walking paths along the river that are nice, especially in the summer months. By Russian standards, Yekaterinburg is becoming a cultural hotspot, with many music venues (such as a jazz club) and hip bars.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Yes, if you like malls and brand names such as Gucci. No, if you like handmade crafts.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Yekaterinburg is very safe, with creature comforts widely available, and most of what you need within walking distance. Two things that I like that I had never seen before: 1) you can buy fresh produce from one of the many produce kiosks in the city center... these are walk-up windows that make it easy to buy fruits and vegetables for someone like me who is often out walking with a stroller and a dog, and therefore not able to easily enter a shop. 2) Many restaurants offer a children's play area, staffed by a paid attendant who will watch your child while you enjoy some kid-free time at your table during the meal.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
Nothing has been especially unexpected for us.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Summer clothes, and possibly your car.
4. But don't forget your:
Winter gear, board games, books, and patience.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
"The Russians" by Hedrick Smith
"Travels in Siberia" by Ian Frazier
"Putin Country: A Journey into the Real Russia" by Anne Garrels
6. Do you have any other comments?
We have found it especially beneficial to our physical and mental well being to take a trip outside of Russia about every three months, especially during the cold months. From Yekaterinburg, there are direct flights to Dubai (five hours) and several cities in Turkey. There are also seasonal direct flights to a handful of European cities, as well as to places east, such as Beijing and Bangkok. Otherwise, there are several flights a day to Moscow, from which one can easily get just about anywhere.
