Karachi, Pakistan Report of what it's like to live there - 09/14/11
Personal Experiences from Karachi, Pakistan
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Keflavik, Naples, Dakar, Copenhagen, Colombo, Peshawar, Guangzhou, Bogota, Kingston, and Nogales
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
3. How long have you lived here?
1 year - Summer-cycle 2010-2011
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Government (US State Department)
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Housing for Consulate staff on the New Consulate Compound (NCC) consists of mostly one- and a few two-bedroom apartments in a three-storey building. The Marine Security Guard detachment has its own house, and there is a small house for the Consul General (both also on the NCC).The quarters are new and designed to US standards (mostly) but small. Because it’s new, the NCC landscaping is still somewhat lacking – the lawn is gravel, not grass, and all the trees are quite small. The commute, however, is a stroll across the compound. Off-compound housing is old, usually larger, and in a more lush environment. The commute can be 20-40 minutes each way.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
There is a small commissary on the Consulate (membership only).There are only a small number of grocery stores approved by the RSO.Two are on the scale of a Costco, but with less emphasis on bulk buying. The others are smaller than a small Giant or Safeway in the US, but larger than a 7-Eleven. Imported can goods generally are available. Fresh vegetables and fruits are generally of poor quality and very dirty. They must be washed first in soapy water then in bleach-water to disinfect. Beef is actually a type of buffalo. It and the mutton and chickens available are of mediocre to poor quality – stringy and tough. No pork is available, except through the Commissary. Eggs are filthy. Long-shelf-life milk (UHT) is readily available.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Lots of books to read and DVDs to watch. Western ethnic (i.e. Mexican or Italian) or Chinese spices and sauces.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
KFC, Pizza Hut, and McDonalds are available. Local fast-food joints and chain restaurants also exist. Mostly, you can’t go to them, however. You can ask Motorpool to swing by and pick up something for you during one of their runs. There are several restaurants that you can usually go to. The RSO maintains a list. Places go on the list or drop off depending upon the security situation. Some of the restaurants are fairly good, most are mediocre. Someone’s gotten sick at one time or another at every single one.
5. What kinds of organic, vegetarian and allergy-friendly foods are available, such as organic produce, gluten-free products, meat substitutes for vegetarians, etc?
Hardly any.
6. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Mosquitoes mostly, and sometimes flies
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
DPO (like APO/FPO)
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
We didn't use any, although some did once or twice a week. Nanny = not applicable.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Both the NCC Staff Housing and the Marine House have gyms. There is a volleyball court, a half-court basketball, two horse-shoe pits, and a pool. Plus you can stroll or jog around the 22-acre compound.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
There is a Citibank ATM in the Staff Housing.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Several English-language local newspapers are available, but are very unreliable in their reporting. Some foreign newspapers can be obtained, several days late. Cable TV provides several US and European channels. Service is unreliable, but not expensive.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Very usefull, but not essential for most positions in the Consulate.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Yes.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
You are not allowed to use any of them. Travel by USG fully-armored vehicles ONLY.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
No POVs allowed at all.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
DSL is available and not expensive ($20.00/mo)
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Don't bother bring one - you'll be issued one by the Consulate.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
Consulate housing allows only cats - no dogs.
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
None.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
None for ASG dependents.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Don't bring a tux. Coat and tie are often required for meetings. Scarves or shawls for women are essential. No shorts off compound for either men or women.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Very dangerous!Both terrorism and crime. You are not allowed out much, and travel everywhere in a fully-armored vehicle with an armed guard. Even to go shopping or to a restaurant. Venues for those and for any meetings are very restricted by security. Very little travel out of the city, and much of the city is off limits.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Karachi is very unhealthy. Water and air are polluted. Everything you touch is at least dusty if not downright filthy. The NCC is next to a mangrove swamp and near the port. Next door is a squatter village. Mosquitoes and flies spread diseases. The Consulate nurse talks about when, not if, you get sick…There is a health unit in the Consulate, staffed by a nurse, with twice weekly visits by a US-trained local doctor. Both are on call 24/7.The larger health unit in the Embassy in Islamabad is available for consultations. One local hospital, the Aga Khan, is quite good. The others are not/not recommended. MEDIVACs are easily arranged.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Somewhat unhealthy
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Hot most of the year, usually humid, like most coastal cities. Two months during the "winter" are somewhat pleasant.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Not Applicable - No children allowed. Adult dependents are allowed only if they are offered a job with the Consulate.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Not Applicable - No kids allowed.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
2. Morale among expats:
Varies
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Limited and sporadically available
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Not good for families. If your spouse can obtain a job and therefore join you, it helps with both of your sanities.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Women are usually not treated as equals of men. Men without beards are often thought less of. Anyone dressing and/or acting “Western” (i.e., non-Muslim, non-South Asian) are generally despised.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Being there resembles a prison sentence – you’re stuck on compound and aren’t allowed out much. Too dangerous.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Not much. Or rather not much that you can get to. There are limited occasions to get to the museums or famous buildings and sites within the city. Very, very limited occasions to get to sites outside the city. There are numerous sites to see, if/when allowed. There is 7,000 years of history to see in southern Pakistan, but it’s very dangerous and the logistics of arranging a trip are difficult.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Not much. The rugs are available, but not particularly a bargain.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
35% Post Differential & 35% Danger Pay
11. Can you save money?
Yes, especially if you can stay sane without traveling out of country too often.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Didn't have much of a choice. Would probably have still gone, but I certainly don't want to have to go again.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Don’t bring a tux or too many fancy clothes. Some nicer outfits are OK.Don’t bring your car or a bicycle. Don’t bring fishing, hunting, or scuba gear. Don’t bring too much of anything; housing is small.
3. But don't forget your:
Books & DVDs. Music. Any consumables for which you have a strong preference of brand.
