Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia Report of what it's like to live there - 05/10/08
Personal Experiences from Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
This is my fourth overseas living experience.
2. How long have you lived here?
2 years.
3. Travel time and best routes to this city from Europe or the US:
Via the Embassy routing: count on a minimum of 23 hours. They no longer require you to overnight in Singapore, however. From here to Seoul, it's 7 hours, then a lay over, then Seoul to Chicago 14 hours....etc.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
I am affiliated with the U.S. Embassy.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Varies. Seems that the Embassy is moving towards putting people in luxury apartments for security reasons. The houses are nice and big but the Embassy does not allow pools so the houses they can choose from are limited.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Vegetables and fruits are very cheap if bought at the open markets. Otherwise, groceries are on par with the cost in America and some higher. You can find everything here...except cranberries when you want them, but you may pay a premium price. It is abundant here but sometimes you may have to shop around to find what you need.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Organic Peanut Butter.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Tons. KFC, Pizza Hut, Dominos, McDonald's, Burger King, as well as plenty of other non-American chains. Many deliver to your home as well! There are many MANY decent restaurants available. Malaysia is known for its variety of excellent cuisine. It deserves that reputation even though I personally cannot stand Malaysian food...as it is greasy and loaded with fermented fish sauce! Nevertheless, there are plenty of excellent choices from American, to Iranian, to Italian, and every variety of Asian.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
I do have access to the APO and it's great. Some of my friends say that the local mail system is horrid for having things stolen and pilfered. But for letter mail, I have heard it's fine.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Our maids have cost around US$400-500 per month for full time live out. We finally imported one which the Embassy will help you with and she is a live-in. Much better for us.
3. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
I use both everywhere and have never had a problem. I should say that I only use the Credit Card at places known to be safe to use them.
4. What English-language religious services are available locally?
They have every religion, except Jewish as far as I know. There are churches, mosques, etc. everywhere.
5. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
The International Herald Tribune, local English Newspapers, and loads of great TV stations. We watch Lost, Ugly Betty, American Idol and other favorite shows here. CNN, BBC and Aljerza are all available for news. I think it costs about US$40 per month but not sure, as my spouse does all of the bills.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
None. BUT many of the stores have Indonesian employees who do not speak a word of English. Knowing some Bahassa would be a good thing.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Plenty. It is much better than other Asian cities however.
Transportation:
1. Do you drive on the right hand side of the road or the left?
Same as the British....Left.
2. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Trains are great and very affordable. Taxis are safe and affordable but totally and utterly unreliable. If it rains they will not pick you up. If you live in a place they don't know, they will not take you. They may take you part of the way then drop you off. They are subsidized by the Malaysia Government and so do not feel compelled to need to pick you up if they don't want to. They are a real pain in the ___.
3. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Best to buy one from someone who is selling locally. It is very time-consumming to have one shipped. Customs can make life miserable for those who need to deal with them, and it can take months for imported cars to be released. They will NOT allow tinted windows. Don't even try it. You will find your car stuck at the port and possibly will not even be able to get it. Truely, start reading the "want" ads and buy one from an expat that plans to sell it before you arrive! Carjackings are not an issue but there are loads of fender benders. You can get decent car service locally and will get over-charged depending upon who you use. You do not need a four wheel drive here as the road system is excellent. The best I have seen over-seas. However, the roads are poorly marked and it is very easy to get lost and then find that you have to drive 30 miles to turn around.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes. See above. I think it is about US$100 per month. Not so fast, which surprised me as Malaysia is supposed to be such a high-tech place. Dell is here but the internet is slow and there really is no true Broadband.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Everyone has at least one. They are essential here. Must have as it is the only way to stay in communcation with kids, and some Malaysians only have a cell phone.
3. What is the best way to make phone calls back home?
We have a VOiP line so it is easy. Phone cards are available and cheap and some use Skype.
Pets:
1. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Excellent vets. We have a bunch of dogs and cats and all have been well cared for. We don't use kennels so cannot comment on these.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Not for Americans. NONE. There is no bilateral work agreement. It is a shame as there is a tremendous need for American expertise in medicine, high-tech, and tourism...but alas, the local government apparently doesn't see it that way.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Usual business dress. Men can get away with wearing a fancy batik shirt to work in some places but most in the Embassy wear a suit.
Health & Safety:
1. Pollution index (Good, Moderate, Unhealthy, or Very Unhealthy)?
Depends on the time of the year. Generally fine but when the Malaysian Government Palm Oil corporations decide to clear cut and burn the fields to plant more palm oil trees, it can be HORRENDOUS! Last year there was NO burning because it was the Visit Malaysia year.
2. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
There have been break-ins.
3. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Quality of medical care is excellent. People come here from other countries to obtain it. There are good doctors, specialists and surgeons. Nursing care is very poor however and the Embasssy will send anyone needing major nursing care after thier procedure to Singapore.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
There are three seasons here but they often intermingle: Hot and humid, hot and humid with rain, and hot and humid with a slight breeze.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
ISKL is a good school. The elementary school was fantastic but a bit of a commute. The middle school has many issues. Children are not allowed to stay and watch sporting events of their peers for example. There is absolutely no staying after school unless enrolled in an activity. The Middle School children are treated like infants.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
Not sure. There are loads with ADHD and ADD type disorders, but I haven't noticed too many with severe physical handicaps.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Many use some of the local preschools but others feel that there are none that are up to U.S. standard in terms of safety or Montessori standards. There are many that say they are Montessori certified but they are not. So, this has been a source of dissatisfaction for some. There are many families with small children at the Embassy and there are some wanting to start playgroups and organize more.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Huge. Really. Lots of people that live here permanently.
2. Morale among expats:
Great. I think. There are always those who will complain, but it is really an easy place to live, and the ability to get by in English makes it even more so.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Clubs, dances, art galleries...You name it, it is here. There are too many things to do to be able to do them all.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Absolutely. Good for all.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
I am sure it is. I have had gay friends come and visit and they seem to find plenty to do. There are lots of transvestites everywhere and they are accepted in society! Hair-dressers, clerks in stores, etc.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
There ARE relegious police here although they have learned to stay away from foreigners. Occassionally they can try to see a marriage certificate.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Lots and lots: music events, movies in brand new state of the art movie theaters. All movies are in English with subtitles. Shopping, malls, and travel to many other lovely places in Malaysia and the region.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Batiks but they are not as nice as in Indonesia. Electronics but not cheaper that what you will find in the USA. Service is better though!
9. Can you save money?
Yes. But not as much as other places in Asia. It is too tempting to fly all over the place on Air Asia which offers budget travel...so makes it harder to save but we have, and it can be done.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Absolutely. I would love to stay but there is no possibility of extension AT ALL if you are posted here. Don't even try it. NO ONE with the Department of State has been permitted to extend.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Winter ANYTHING.
3. But don't forget your:
Suntan lotion and tolerance for air-conditioning! You cannot live here without it.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
6. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
7. Do you have any other comments?
This is a great post and our favorite thus far. I would recommend it for anyone.
