Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia Report of what it's like to live there - 05/17/16
Personal Experiences from Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No, this is our fourth expat experience. We've previously lived in Kabul, Afghanistan; Ankara, Turkey; and Amman, Jordan.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Our home base is the Washington, DC area. The trip to post is usually about 30 hours, connecting through Hong Kong or Tokyo.
3. How long have you lived here?
Three years, 2013-2016.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Government.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
In the KL city center area, housing is almost exclusively high-rise apartments. Single family and row houses are more common west of city center, in Mont Kiara and Damansara, and many private-sector employees choose to live in those areas. For those living and working in KLCC, commutes are generally over short distances (less than 5 miles) but traffic is nearly always an issue on major thoroughfares.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
If you shop at the "wet markets," produce and meat is quite reasonable - we can get a week's worth of groceries for our family of six for about $50. The grocery stores are more expensive but carry most everything you could want, including baking supplies and Western convenience foods. Prices are comparable to American grocery stores but a bit more expensive (maybe 20% mark-up?).
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Nothing I can think of.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
You can find pretty much any type of food in KL. There's even a great Mexican restaurant! The whole range is available, from hawker stalls selling nasi lemak (coconut rice with spicy sambal) for less than 50 cents to fine dining restaurants in which you'll pay more than $20 for an entree.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Mosquitoes are a constant concern: dengue fever in particular was at epidemic levels for two of the three years we lived here. There are also concerns about malaria and Japanese encephalitis, although those are much less common than dengue.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
We have DPO and the diplomatic pouch through the embassy.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Widely available. Full-time housekeeper/nannies generally run about 2,000 RM per month (approximately $500).
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
They are available: most of the apartment buildings have gyms in them and there are private gyms as well. No idea as to the costs.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Both are widely available and generally safe to use. There are scams here as there are everywhere.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Most varieties of Christian services are available: Anglican, general Protestant (evangelical and mainline/Presbyterian), Catholic, Latter Day Saints, etc. I don't know of any Jewish services in town.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Not much. Most people speak English, and those who don't speak English generally speak Cantonese or Tamil, so Bahasa Malaysia isn't really critical.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Yes. It's not as bad as some places we've lived, but there are high curbs and buildings are not always wheelchair accessible.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Yes. KL has Uber, and taxis are widely available and as safe here as they are anywhere. Intracity buses are quite crowded but otherwise safe, and intercity buses are a great way to get to Singapore or Penang. Trains have a limited number of stops but are generally clean and reliable where they do run.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Malaysia is a right-hand drive country (meaning cars drive on the left side of the road). You can get by with an American vehicle with the steering wheel on the left, but parking garages and such are quite inconvenient. Better to buy a car at post.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, it's available. It costs us about $60/month, but that varies.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Any smartphone would be fine here.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
I don't know. Most apartments do not permit pets, so that's a consideration.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Not really. I believe spouses are not authorized employment other than in the international schools, but I'm not really sure.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Probably plenty, but I don't have first-hand knowledge.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Business casual to business for work
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
The security concerns are primarily nonviolent theft, such as purse snatching (from pedestrians and from vehicles). Break-ins are an issue in ground-floor or townhouse-style housing, which is why most embassy housing is in high-rise apartment buildings. The terror threat here is not any more critical than in other large cities, to my knowledge.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
This is a big third world city in southeast Asia, so there is the normal range of intestinal and mosquito-borne illnesses to worry about. Medical care is quite good and not prohibitively expensive.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Most of the year the air quality is moderate (not stellar, but average for a big third world city). In September/October, however, when the corporations in Indonesia do their slash-and-burn for the palm oil plantations, the resulting haze makes the air quality dangerous for several days to months until the rainy season reaches Sumatra.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
There are no seasons here. Pollen allergies are not a big issue since most of the plant life is jungle. People with gluten issues can find options here, the larger grocery stores carry gluten-free products. Peanuts are fairly prevalent in the local cuisine. Enough options exist that you can work around pretty much anything.
5. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Hot and humid. Imagine DC in August, but every single day all year long. There is very, very little variation, some months have a bit more or less rain but the temperature pretty much stays the same.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
There are several very reputable international schools in KL. The International School of Kuala Lumpur (ISKL) has an American curriculum. There are also British, Australian, and French schools and several smaller private schools. We home schooled during our time here, primarily because of the commute between KLCC and ISKL's primary school campus in Melawati (nearly an hour each way), but ISKL is building a new campus in KLCC that, when it is finished (currently scheduled for 2017/2018), will mean there is a top tier international school very close to the city center. Most people that I know with children in the international schools here are quite happy with them.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
I have no personal experience with this issue. My understanding is that the schools here are private institutions, and are generally not set up to provide robust special needs programs.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Yes, preschools are available. I have not personally used them, but nearly everyone else at post does. There is a wide range of options, including Montessori and Reggio Emilia. They are not cheap, and most are set up for five days a week even for very young children (most preschools here start accepting children at age 2). For younger children, child care is usually provided by nannies.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Yes. The schools all have sports programs, but there are also afternoon and weekend programs for soccer, gymnastics, tennis, fencing, horseback riding, swimming, etc.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
There's a large expatriate community, government and private sector (primarily oil companies). Morale is pretty high, KL is generally considered an easy place to live.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Pretty much anything you could imagine. There are great restaurants and bars and tons of shopping options. Most expats live in apartment buildings with pools, and given the climate, pool parties are the most comfortable way to be outside.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
It's good for families, and for couples and singles who are interested in travel. Most of the expatriates are here with their families.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
I don't know. Malaysia is a Muslim country, but reasonably tolerant considering.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Yes. Malaysian society is quite striated, with the Bumiputera (Muslim Malay) population at the top of the heap by legal mandate, and sizable Chinese and Indian populations that are prevented from rising within the hierarchy beyond a certain point. For most expats this won't be a huge issue, although ethnically Chinese or Indian expats may face some prejudices from the local population. Christianity is well tolerated here, there are large churches that openly hold services, but as in any Muslim country proselytizing is illegal.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
The food! Malaysia is famous for being a melting pot of Chinese, Indian, and Malay cuisine, and with reason. The regional travel opportunities are also quite good, KL is a hub for Air Asia and you can easily travel to Thailand, Indonesia, Cambodia, Australia, and the Philippines, to name just a few.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Malaysia is full of travel opportunities: you can do everything from Legoland to shopping trips to canopy walks through the jungle.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Batiks and pewter.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Kuala Lumpur is, in many respects, an easy city in which to live. There is a large expat community, English is widely spoken, foreigners are generally quite welcome and not particularly targeted for scams or crime, health care is good and you can find nearly anything that you want (groceries, clothing, shoes, medicine). It's a comfortable middle ground in the region - not as expensive (or as nice) as Singapore, cleaner than Jakarta, less conservative than Brunei.
10. Can you save money?
Depends. It's not a super cheap city if you enjoy shopping in the Western-style grocery stores and malls, but it's not nearly as expensive as Singapore. If you want to do a ton of traveling you probably won't save much money, but those are all options that you can skip if you so choose.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
That it really never does cool down, not even at night. Just expect to be sweaty any time you step outside.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Absolutely.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Cold-weather clothing.
4. But don't forget your:
Linen and cotton clothing, sunscreen and bug repellent. And your sense of humor, because TIM (This Is Malaysia!).
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
"Entrapment" is the only movie I can think of set in KL. There was also an episode of "No Reservations" (Anthony Bourdain) filmed in Malaysia.
6. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
I can't think of any set in KL, but "The Gift of Rain" by Tan Twan Eng is set in Penang and gives a pretty good idea of Malaysian culture.
