Beirut, Lebanon Report of what it's like to live there - 04/23/12
Personal Experiences from Beirut, Lebanon
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No - Costa Rica, Argentina, Honduras, France.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Washington, DC - 20 hours (including layovers) through Frankfurt, London or Paris.
3. How long have you lived here?
2 years (April 2010 - now).
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Husband's job.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Equal to the States. Most things are available, but you'll pay a premium for imported food (e.g. a pint of Ben & Jerry's is about $10). Not everything imported is available all the time or at every grocery store (e.g. sometimes veggie burgers are available for 2 weeks and then you never see them again).
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
More toys and kids clothes. Things here are quite expensive, especially for the nicer quality or US/European brands.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
A lot of the fast food restaurants from the States are here (McD's, Burger King, Hardee's, KFC) at the same price. And then there are a number of local fast food places. Plus falafel, schwarma, and manaouche everywhere (for super cheap).
5. What kinds of organic, vegetarian and allergy-friendly foods are available, such as organic produce, gluten-free products, meat substitutes for vegetarians, etc?
Gluten-free food is available in all the major grocery stores.
6. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
We don't. everything gets stopped at customs and charged, so it's easier to have visitors bring things over.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Very inexpensive ($5/hr for cleaning). US$400-$500/month for a live-in maid/nanny (although that doesn't include the agency fees or airline tickets). Most domestic help is from the Philippines, Ethiopia, Sri Lanka, or West Africa.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Yes, but gyms are expensive for the most part.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Very easy. There are ATMs everywhere. Credit cards are accepted most places. Especially nice is that you can be charged in dollars on your credit card so that you don't have to pay a foreign exchange fee.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Yes.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Very little. Almost everybody speaks English or French.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
I can't even imagine. It's a pain trying to get a stroller around the streets of Beirut. Cars park on every sidewalk; there are no curb ramps; etc.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Very safe and very affordable. Buses cost about 80 cents (1250LL). Services (shared taxis) are 2000LL (just over a dollar), although sometimes as a foreigner, the driver will charge you "Service-sen" (2 service fees).
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, but it's fairly expensive and not that reliable.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
They are expensive! People use SMS and missed calls to avoid charges.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Traffic -- there are no real rules of the road. But other than that, it is very safe. I feel safer walking at night than I do in DC. And there is practically no petty theft.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Most all the doctors trained in the US or Europe.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
HOT in summer, cold & rainy in winter.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Supposedly really good (ACS, IC, & Wellspring are the top ones in Beirut).
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Lots of pre-schools taught in both in English and/or French. More difficult to find an Arabic-focused pre-school. Very affordable.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Large.
2. Morale among expats:
Good. Although there doesn't seem to be a lot of good friendships between expats and locals, unless they are relatives.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Lots of bars, restaurants, clubs. A very "see and be seen" atmosphere. Some really good restaurants and a lot of overpriced ones (for the quality of the food).
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Okay for families (there is a substantial lack of public green space, or green space in general). Great for singles and couples.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Yes.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Good quality of life - restaurants, bars, schools, etc.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Beach clubs in the summertime. Skiing in the winter.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
11. Can you save money?
Not as much as you would think. Dinners out run about $50-100 per couple. Movie tickets are about $7. Entrance to the beach clubs can be up to $25/person.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
I think so.
