Kuwait City, Kuwait Report of what it's like to live there - 02/19/13
Personal Experiences from Kuwait City, Kuwait
Background:
1. Your reason for living this city (e.g. corporate, government, military, student, educator, retiree, etc.):
2. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
3. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
East Coast, United States
4. How long have you lived here?
(The contributor is affiliated with the U.S. Embassy and lived in Kuwait City for two years, a first expat experience.)
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Off-compound homes and apartments are large and often luxurious. You will likely have to have a full-time domestic worker to keep these places up. On-compound housing is small, but that means no commute in Kuwaiti traffic. Traffic can be difficult to deal with. Many wrecks take place at a very high rate of speed.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Western groceries are expensive. If you want American and European products, check out Lulu's and the Sultan Center. The embassy now has a small exchange - a Godsend.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
With the new embassy exchange, there is little you will need to bring.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Everything is here.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
If you go "camping" out in the desert there can be lots of house flies. Many of the desert camping areas are strewn with amazing amounts of garbage.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
DPO and pouch, if necessary.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Again, pay the extra amount and have a clear conscience. You may determine, as we did, that you really don't want a full-time, live-in. After trying that, we found that a once-a-week cleaning is really all we need. If both parents (assuming you have kids) work, then you will find the situation here virtually ideal.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There is a small gym on compound. There are a lot of private gyms, but they are expensive. Embassy employees get free admission to the Radisson - it has an awesome pool and a great atmosphere.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Credit cards, debit cards, ATMs everywhere, but watch the hidden currency conversion "fees".
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Almost everything - Catholic, several types of Protestant, Anglican, and LDS. There are many, many Christian congregations that meet on the NECK (National Evangelical Church of Kuwait) compound. Also, there is an evangelical congregation called the International Christian Fellowship of Kuwait that meets weekly.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Kuwait Times, Al-Watan Daily English, and the Arab Times for newspapers. You can get Arab satellite off-compound, or an OSN satellite package. On-compound, you get about 50 channels, including American 24-hour news channels, international news, AFN channels, 3-4 OSN movie channels, and some Arab satellite movie channels that show American movies.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Arabic definitely helps, but many service workers are Philippine or Indian and speak English.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Many. Pedestrians beware! There are some areas along the Gulf where you can walk or take a wheelchair.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Find a good, reliable taxi company and use them.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
You can bring whatever. You may feel safer in a little larger vehicle.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, its speed and reliability depend on where in the city you live. On-compound is adequate and costs around $700 - $800/year or more for better speed.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Embassy provided.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
The embassy compound now has a fenced-in area for dogs. A western-quality vet is available.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Many spouses work in embassy jobs. I don't know of anyone working on the economy whose spouse works at the embassy.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Suit and tie to work. Women should dress very conservatively, so as not to attract unwanted attention. As an Arab friend told my wife soon after we arrived: If an Arab man speaks to a Western woman in public, he has ill intentions." You will run into the occasional Kuwaiti who went to college in the U.S. and just wants to chat. Men should not wear shorts in public unless they are exercising, and even then, make sure they are long - no running shorts, dude.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
There have been protests in front of the U.S. Embassy at times. There are many public marches, sit-ins, and demonstrations in the ongoing political dispute betweeen the government and the opposition. They are something to be cautious around, but they are not anti-Western and are 'generally' peaceful. Do your best to stay out of Jahra. The traffic there is something to behold. There are many high-end sports cars and huge American pick-ups being driven at high rates of speed and with complete disregard for anyone else on the road. It will help if you understand that what people are doing to you in traffic is not in any way personal; they actually think it's not rude to drive this way. People do not know how to wait in a line here, and like water flowing downhill, they will try to go down emergency lanes, over curbs, over medians, or just make an extra lane where there's not one. Because the interstates are so nice, you get fooled into thinking that people will drive like they do in the West - - - but they won't. If you see someone using a blinker, they are Westerners. The many young Kuwaitis driving aggressively at high rates of speed, mixed with South-Central Asians driving older smaller vehicles at 60 km/hr below the speed limit, doesn't make for a good combination. All that being said, I never got in a wreck, and at some level it will help you to drive a little more like a Kuwaiti. If you park on a street somewhere, the people who will parallel park in front of and behind you will likely figure out how much room they have by just running into your front and rear bumper. Okay, enough about the traffic. I have a friend that came from the third world, and he thought driving in Kuwait was a dream come true.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Dust storms - they will be worse than you are thinking. There is decent medical care here. We had a baby while we were here and chose to go back to the US to have it. Doctor care here is solid, but there is no comparison with nurses. Kuwait does not even come close to the professionalism and expertise of American nurses.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
The dust storms March - May were undersold in previous descriptions that I read about Kuwait. They will alter your lifestyle when they occur. There may be some outside of these months, but they are few.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Very hot during the summer, regularly in the 120's. You know you have been through a Kuwaiti summer when you start to look at the 5-day forecast and are excited about the day where it will only be 115.The summer lasts from mid-April to mid-October. November through February is very nice. It will get cool some nights.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
We have a daughter in ASK for one term in 2nd grade. It is total luck-of-the-draw as to which teacher you get. Some are great, some don't care. Usually the teachers are so mentally beaten down by the unruly kids, their disorganized administration, and parents who think their kids should be given something for nothing, that they barely have time for the good students. TES has a better reputation, a higher level of academic rigor, fewer behavioral problems, and more expats. We ended up home-schooling during most of the time we were here, and it was best for us. Also, there are a number of Westerners home-schooling, and they have a group that meets on Thursdays, when all the kids get together to work on their social skills (parks, field trips, etc.), because everyone knows that home-schooled kids need to work on their social skills :).
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Preschool is available. Domestic workers are plentiful. Non-U.S. Embassy-employed expats and Kuwaitis pay their domestic workers $195-$300/month. Most U.S. Embassy personnel pay theirs between $500-$600/month. Just suck it up and pay the extra amount if you want a full-time live-in domestic worker. Their families back in their country of origin are dirt poor, and they are making amazing sacrifices to earn a small amount of money to help their families and children back home.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Yes. Friends' sons played on a travel baseball team and loved it. Daughters took ballet and gymnastics. There is an extraordinary expat community here with many, many talented people. Daughters took private violin and voice lessons from extremely talented musicians for very reasonable prices.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Very large, but there is a good-size Western expat community. Some of the best people I have met in my life are American expats living here long-term.
2. Morale among expats:
Some are frustrated, but it's all about making a decision to laugh off the frustrating things and embrace the good.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
There are Monday night and Thursday night AEWA gatherings. There are usually a couples with nice homes or apartments who are good at entertaining. If you can crack into Kuwaiti social events, do not turn them down, they are usually very fun.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Men and women stay largely segregated in public unless they are an immediate family.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Homeosexuality is illegal, but like everything else that is illegal in Kuwait, it goes on behind closed doors.No. There is probably a hidden scene, but I don't know for sure.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
There is a hierarchy of importance here based on religion, race, and nationality. Kuwaitis at the top, followed closely by other Gulf Arabs. You will see that while some Asians have work in skilled positions here, there are countless Indians, Bangladeshis, Egyptians, Sri Lankans, Nepalese, and others employed as domestic workers, sanitation workers, cleaners, and construction workers who are barely viewed as human beings.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
I have met several Kuwaitis who are friends and have kept my attitude about the country somewhat positive.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
The highest likelihood of getting to know a Kuwaiti is through some type of work relationship, depending on your job. Take advantage of that and take them up on their offers to take you places - they are not asking just to be polite, like Westerners, hoping you'll refuse. They take hospitality to a different level. If you get the opportunity to go to a wedding celebration, you must go. Go out to the desert camps if you get a chance. We did not travel much regionally, but everyone who went to Oman raved about it. Bahrain is a nice getaway - it is a little more permissive, Western-friendly society. Expats do a lot of productions here. Check out the Ahmadi music group, Kuwait Little Theatre, and others. Visit Falaika Island and tour the city abandoned after the Iraqi invasion - it's like time stood still.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
There's not really a lot made in Kuwait. I bought some diwaniya furniture. Go to the "Friday Market" - go to the "Heritage Sooq".
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
If you want to be in the Middle East, you will be in one of the places on the shrinking list of posts where you can still bring a family. While many find it difficult to save money, we have managed to do well in that area. COLA is 25%, Hardship 10%, and there is Sunday pay.
11. Can you save money?
Yes, but I recommend getting out of Kuwait when possible. Kuwaitis travel all the time to Europe, the U.S., and the Far East. You need a break, but if you can limit your travel and you don't get addicted to shopping on Amazon, you can really save.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
I'm glad we did. The work experience here was outstanding, but I probably wouldn't choose to come back. Regardless of what your interests are, you can probably find others who are into it, you just might have to be very proactive.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Bad attitude. I have been guilty of getting caught up in the expat whining about Kuwait. Really, the value here is in the relationships that are available with some Kuwaitis and the rich expat community. I have friends, who are long-term residents (Westerners), that shame me with how positively they view living here.
3. But don't forget your:
Conservative clothes.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
6. Do you have any other comments?
There are a lot of facades here. Often times, there are facades behind the facade. Kuwait is extremely complex, and just when you think you are figuring things out, you will see another piece of the puzzle that challenges your previous notions. Things are not the way they appear on the outside. There are 1.2 million citizens sitting on 10% of the world's proven oil reserves. There is tremendous wealth here, and centuries of "the way we've always done it" is clashing with a tech-savvy youth that are confused about what traditions to keep and which ones to discard. Find the reasons to enjoy being here and invest in those pursuits.
