Kuwait City, Kuwait Report of what it's like to live there - 05/14/12
Personal Experiences from Kuwait City, Kuwait
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
First post, first expat experience.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Home base is Utah. Travel from Kuwait to Dulles is 13 hours 30 min on the direct United Flight, then we had 3.5 hour flight to Utah.
3. How long have you lived here?
Two years.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Trailing spouse with U.S. Embassy
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
There is traffic in the morning, and then again at midday when everyone goes home for a downtime ( 1-4pm ), so stay off the major roads from 12:30-1:30pm. Then traffic picks up again around 6pm when everyone goes back out for night-time adventures.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
If you shop at the neighborhood co-op grocery stores, you will save more money then shopping at the western import stores like Sultan Center and Lulu's Hypermarket. I shop mostly at our local co-ops (Mishref and Zahra co-ops--Zahra is particularly well kept and nice) and once a month go to Sultan Center and Lulu's on 208 for bigger trips and for things I can't find at the co-ops.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Holiday foods (canned pumpkin, cranberry sauce, stuffing mix), but they sell all that here at Sultan Center. It's just really expensive. Kuwait has almost everything now (except real Vanilla and almond extract). The only thing they don't have here is good Mexican food, but you can buy tortillas, salsa, enchilada sauce, and refried beans from the Sultan Center now.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Almost every single U.S. fast food chain is here, including Arby's (known as Hardees here). Taco Bell came last year. Prices are comparable to U.S.--a bit more expensive. There are also nicer U.S. restaurant chains: TGIFridays, Applebees, Ruby Tuesdays, Fuddruckers, Johnny Rockets, Potbelly's, Chicago UNO's Pizza, Pizza Express, Pizza Hut, Papa John's.....list goes on and on. There is even Cold Stone, Marble Slab, and Krispy Kreme.
5. What kinds of organic, vegetarian and allergy-friendly foods are available, such as organic produce, gluten-free products, meat substitutes for vegetarians, etc?
Not so much, however they are moving towards more local-grown, organic options. The Sultan Center in Hawally has started selling local organic produce.
6. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Hardly any. Flies and mosquitoes before it gets too cold or too hot, but they are hardly a bother.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
We are lucky enough to have APO, however, a company called Aramex is here and you can set up an account with them to receive packages. Kuwait doesn't have a reliable private residence mail service.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Domestic help is readily available here. Price ranges from a very low end of 60-80KD per month (Kuwaitis pay their help very little) to a more reasonable price of 110-160KD per month (generally expats pay theirs better -- at the embassy we are encouraged to pay a more reasonable price then the Kuwaitis pay their help). Price varies depending on whether or not your help is full-time live-in, or full-time live-out, or part-time. Generally, part-time is 2KD per hour.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Yes, tons. Most are segregated. U.S. Embassy families receive free membership at the SAS Radisson. The Palms hotel gym is nice. Most hotels have memberships you can join, and there are other private gyms: Flex, Curves, Gold's Gym, etc.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
We mostly use cash here. At restaurants and stores at the mall I have used my credit card, but for grocery shopping and other misc. shopping around town I always use cash.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
There are services here for many different religions that meet privately in villas, in addition to a few that meet in hotels--the Catholic church meets at the Radisson, there is a New Evangelical Church that has their own building downtown.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
The Kuwait Times and Arab Times can be found in English online for free.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
None. We have learned greetings and 'thank you' and that's it. Everything is in English (other than local restaurants in neighborhoods and some signs).
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Malls and grocery stores are wheelchair-friendly, and handicapped parking can be found at every shopping center. There are sidewalks along the water as well. Sidewalks in neighborhoods are non-existent.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
I do not know of any Americans or any British friends who take the local buses. They aren't reliable enough to follow a set schedule and may be late or early. Many, many people take taxis here. They range in price and are safe, but be sure to only get in a marked taxi and not someone who pulls over and may not be a taxi.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Definitely bigger is better here--the roads can be dangerous and we definitely feel safer in an SUV vs. a small sedan. The terrain isn't rugged, unless you go out into the desert for camping. Gas is cheap, so why not drive a gas guzzling SUV?
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Kuwait's internet can't be described as fast, but it isn't dial-up slow either (except high peak times like Thursday and Friday nights). There are many companies--the easiest is to get a Zain stick and pay per bandwidth until you can get faster DSL set up if it's available in your building. Most of the embassy community uses Quality Net or Fast Telco.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
SIM cards are plentiful and cheap. You'll need your passport to get one, and it will have to be prepaid. After you have your civil ID it can be postpaid. Cell phone stores are in every mall and many grocery stores.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
We don't have pets, but much of the embassy community does, or did find pets while they were here. There are many cats and dogs in the shelters that need homes. There are vets and kennels used by the embassy community, and I think they are fine with the quality (haven't heard complaints). The embassy has a Pet Clinic every few months, so you can just bring your pet to the embassy for shots and check ups.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
There is tons of government run around if you want to start your own private business, but there are plenty of teaching jobs available for qualified individuals. I'm not familiar with other jobs outside of the embassy.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Definitely shorts should come below the knee for both men and women. You would stand out for sure if you had exposed knees or shoulders. No tank tops or low-cut shirts. Showing any cleavage out in public would be extremely inappropriate here, and you would get unwanted attention. I wear skirts that come to my knees to church, but I wouldn't wear them to the malls here. Regular shirts and cap sleeves are fine.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
We are advised to use caution here in Kuwait. Don't engage in road-rage aggression, although you may be tempted. There are the obvious regional issues with terrorism and protests. Kuwait is safer than much of the middle east, but we are advised to stay away from Jahra, as we would stand out as the only westerner's there (although I have lots of non-embassy friends who go there to see the Red Fort). We are advised to not explore through the desert where we might encounter land mines, but we have gone out exploring in popular places where people camp a lot (around Mutla Ridge). Lots of people go desert camping, but I'd go in group. We feel very safe here, and I go out by myself to the souk, or to see shows at night by myself and feel completely safe -- other than the crazy drivers and speed demons on the road.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
There are a few clinics that have higher reputations, such as International clinic, Hadi Clinic, and many expats deliver children at Royale Hayat hospital in Jabriya. For big emergencies, it's best to go to the government hospital like Mubarak Al-Kabeer.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
The dusty, hazy air has been a concern, but neither I nor my husband, nor our two children have had any infections or illnesses due to the dust. Occasionally we get allergy symptoms if a particularly bad storm comes through.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Hot (100-120 degrees F from May to mid September). Humidity only kicks in every once in a while, although if you are on the coast you'll feel it more. It is wonderful, temperate 60-70 degree weather from November to February, sometimes even through March.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Our children were young, and we kept them home instead of paying for private preschools which are expensive.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
There are a few British-owned reputable preschools. As mentioned, they are expensive when compared to preschools/nurseries in the U.S.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
There is Kuwait Little League, Kuwait Ice Hockey (at the Ice Skating rink). There are also private soccer clubs. The Little Gym Kuwait offers gymnastics classes. The schools also have swimming programs. I have friends with kids in Karate classes here as well.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
There are many, many expats here from U.S., Australia, Canada, as UK as teachers, plus many Americans here as military contractors or for oil. And, as I mentioned, Kuwait's society working industry is run primarily by workers from other countries, such as Philippines, India, Sri Lanka, etc.
2. Morale among expats:
There is a split between those who love it here and those who hate it. Generally, I think people cope well with Kuwait. We have good days and bad days, but mostly we just go with the flow and try not to let the hard things get us down, and work at finding the neat things to do.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
There are some neat things here for entertainment:-bowling-movie theatres-Kuwait Little Theatre -Ahmadi Music Group-DAR Al Athar Islamiyyah programs -Cinemagic Rooftop Theare in Salmiyah-Go Kart Racing-Paint Balling
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
We find it very safe, and good for families. Singles tend to not like Kuwait, since there is no nightlife (no bars, dance clubs, drinking, etc.) except for 'underground' ones that you might be able to find, all of which are illegal of course. The embassy does have a Happy Hour and a soccer team, an ultimate frisbee team, and we have access to the Arifjan Army base that has MWR activities, although it's 45 min. south.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Public displays of affection, even between men and women, definitely should be limited to hand holding. Gays or lesbians should be discreet when in public, as it is generally unaccepted here among the culture.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Kuwait is quite conservative in regards to religion. A few religions are officially recognized here, but many many more meet together weekly in villas. We are advised to remain discreet. There are many, many expats from all over the world here. The only prejudice I've heard about is from my friends who look more middle eastern (dark hair, dark eyes), and who have been looked down upon by more traditional Kuwaiti women for not covering their hair and arms/neck (they assume that these Americans are actually Muslims). Even as a woman, I haven' felt any prejudices from men here. I find that everyone is very polite and willing to help me.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Visiting Jerusalem was definitely a highlight. Go-Kart racing was fun. A ridiculously large house was pretty awesome (again, this is provided by the embassy, so other expats may have a different experience). We really like Cinemagic Rooftop Theatre, and I was involved in many shows at Kuwait Little Theatre, which was a neat experience. Going to the Heritage Souk and getting to know that and exploring new corners of it was always a fascinating adventure. Same can be said for the Friday Market.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
There a couple of museums: Heritage Museum, Invasion Museum (Kuwait House for National Works), Maritime Museum, Tareq Rajeb Museum, Tareq Rajeb Calligraphy Museum, Modern Art Museum, and the Aquarium & Discovery Science Center. Each Mall has an arcade/amusement park (like Chuckee Cheese on steroids) with bowling alleys, pool tables, and rides. Avenues and 360 Mall are popular places to go, although we never go out at night---toooooooo busy and tooooooo much traffic. mornings are best for exploring. Check out a website I put together with things to do here: www.favoritethingskuwait.blogspot.com
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Iranian carpets are a popular thing to buy. Not much is unique to Kuwait. Most souvenirs come from India (wood camels, tables, etc). We are happy with our Pashminas from India, carpets from Iran or Afghanistan, jewelry with our name in Arabic (bracelets, keychains, necklaces). You can buy traditional Kuwaiti weavings from Sadu House, and dhow replicas of their pearling boats at the souks.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Most people say Kuwait is best as a traveling hub for other more interesting nearby places to visit. While we did visit Cairo and Jerusalem -- and that definitely was one of the best things we did -- for me being able to experience the middle east in a safe, comfortable environment was also valuable. Our living accommodations on the U.S. Embassy compound were fantastic.
11. Can you save money?
You can save money by shopping at co-ops and not eating out too much....but most people say 'what else is there to do besides eat out and travel away from Kuwait?' So it can be hard, depending on how you live. We didn't travel much, and shopped at Co-ops, so we saved some.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes, we had a fabulous tour here. We lived like royalty and were treated that way too. We would definitely do it as a first tour again. Many people coming to Kuwait as a second or third tour had a hard time if they came from Europe or Asia. It can be seen as a step 'down' but for us, we had nothing to compare it to, and really enjoyed it. It's all what you make of it.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
bikinis, small cars, driving rules, and high expectations.
3. But don't forget your:
sunglasses, sunscreen, patience, and sense of adventure.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
There are a few books that people read-- Understanding Arabs, Small Kingdoms. However, I'd suggest reading the local blogs to get a real feel for Kuwait:2:48AM: http://www.248am.comGrapevine: http://www.grapevinekuwait.com/His & Hers: http://hishersq8.com/Expat & The City: http://expatandthecity.blogspot.com/Ladies Who Do Lunch in Kuwait: http://www.ladieswhodolunchinkuwait.com/
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
6. Do you have any other comments?
Kuwait is what you make of it. You can come and enjoy your time here, see what there is to see, embrace the culture, get lost in the souks and love it, get things tailored for cheap, and have fun traveling to nearby places. Or, you can complain about the dust, restrictions (no alcohol or pork, lots of run-around trying to get things accomplished), traffic, sandstorms, lack of entertainment and things to do. After 2 years, we are ready to go, but we would have loved a third year, and we didn't complain our whole two years here like some others did. Find the hidden treasures of Kuwait and have fun exploring!
