Astana, Kazakhstan Report of what it's like to live there - 03/03/25
Personal Experiences from Astana, Kazakhstan
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
I was previously a Peace Corps Volunteer in Uganda.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Southern California. It was easier before the Ukraine/Russian war. Usually, we would fly to Europe (London) and then to the U.S. Once the war started, it added an addition 2-3 hours of flying time. Most people transit through Europe to get to the U.S.
3. What years did you live here?
2021-2023.
4. How long have you lived here?
Two years.
5. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic mission
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
We loved our housing. We had a three bedroom apartment that was quite spacious and had good natural light. We also had a good-sized kitchen. Actual layouts and sizes in Astana varied between the various neighborhoods but generally people seemed happy with their housing.
Most people lived in apartments that were either across the street or within about a mile of the embassy. There was also a community of stand alone houses for those with young children (30-60 minutes in traffic). Occasionally, someone would end up in a one off here and there around the city.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
The basic staples were affordable but it could be expensive to find "exotic" fruits and vegetables. Pork is also harder to find but available. Going out to eat was affordable and everything delivers.
They have their version of Costco called Metro and we bought a lot in bulk there. You can find berries and other fresh fruit part of the year which is good to freeze for the winter. There are ingredients for Italian and Asian food. Household supplies were available but we found that some things like kitchen supplies and basic tools (stools, ladders, etc.) were more expensive. There are a few supermarkets to do cater to the expat community and you can find most things.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
We shipped alcohol, sauces, laundry detergent, American favorite staples (PB, pasta sauce, etc.), I shipped ethnic food items as well. The commissary is pretty bad, in my opinion, and expensive for them to ship items in(also, logistics issue due to the war).
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Glovo, Wolt, several delivery apps that made it easy. There are also grocery delivery apps. There's no good Chinese food, but Japanese food was okay (lots of cream cheese). We found one Mexican restaurant that would suffice. There are plenty of burgers, pizza, and good bakeries. Lots of Georgian, Russian, and Turkish options as well.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
No issues with pests.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
DPO. Did not try local post. Packages took about three weeks.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Several people had a nanny or housekeeper. We paid about $600 per month for a nanny but we LOVED her. She's the best nanny we've had and was amazing with the kiddos and meticulous in her cleaning. Was not hard to find help but finding help with good English is harder.
3. Do you feel that it is safe to walk, run or hike outside? Are there areas where bike riding is possible? What is the availability and safety of outdoor space for exercising? Are these easily accessible?
100%. Astana was super safe. I had no concerns about kiddos playing outside or doing things on their own. In the non-winter months, outdoor space is plentiful and safe. There's a triathlon park nearby with a rubber track, playgrounds, etc. In the winter, you probably want to either pick up a winter sport or sign up for a gym if you don't use the embassy one.
4. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There are a few nice gyms in the city. Good options for boxing. In the winter, you can take ski lessons. The embassy has a nice gym, indoor pool, and tennis courts. There is an active tennis group that plays regularly and in the summer, we've seen people biking and strolling through many of the nice parks.
In the winter, the city sets up ice skating rinks, snow slides and other children friendly winter activities. There are also public pools and an archery club. A few people I know tried horseback riding but were mixed on how they felt about it.
5. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
We only used the ATM at the bank but people paid by mobile all the time with local accounts. Safe to use. Foreign credit cards widely accepted and safe to use.
6. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Very limited, if any.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Local language classes and tutors are affordable and available. People got by without local language but would definitely recommend it. Most people speak Kazakh or Russian. Very limited spoken English.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Yes. With the winter and the ice on the sidewalks, it would be difficult to get around. I think they've made efforts to be more accessible but it's still a challenge. Certain areas where the embassy community live would be fine, especially with delivery services but if you wanted to really get out and explore, it would be difficult.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Yes. We drove but regularly used taxis (no seat belts in taxis). There are buses but we never tried them. We did take a train from Astana to Almaty but did it for the experience. It took a while (overnight train) and accommodations will vary depending on the class of ticket you purchase. The cost of the train ticket was the same as flying to Almaty.
2. What kind of vehicle(s) including electric ones do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, infrastructure, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car or vehicles do you advise not to bring?
Don't recommend electric due to the cold winter temperatures. Vehicles with high clearance and 4WD are recommended due to the snow and cold. We had a FWD initially that got stuck in the first snow of the winter season, but the city does a very good job of clearing the snow and ice on the roads. People had a wide range of vehicles but Japanese vehicles seem to do well. I would Google to see what dealerships are around.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes. Available and easy to install for the most part. The hard part is the layout of the buildings and because they are made of concrete. It's hard for signals to go through and you will likely need a mesh system. VPN recommended.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
We did both. We kept our T-Mobile but we also got local sim cards. Very affordable and you can pay your bill directly at the embassy.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
Many people brought pets. There were a few vets for dogs and cats and a few places for kenneling (although this seemed to work better for small animals). There are a few pet stores but most people shipped food and supplies in via DPO. No quarantine. There are occasional stray dogs.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Most EFMs who wanted to work at the Embassy were able to get jobs although pay was lower than in the U.S. There were a few EPAP positions. I don't recall anyone working on the local market but I know that there are British/American schools and there were expats at the university.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
People volunteered at shelters and with religious organizations I think. I don't recall people mentioning volunteerring that often.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Kazakhs dress nice. Business casual to business formal was the norm.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Medical care could be better. For anything specialized, we were medevacked to London. The med unit was great and would guide you through medical care in country. The medical system is better for basic things (fixing broken bones, basic checkups). Mold can be an issue for some once the ice melts. Beauty and cosmetic services are abound here. Many women I knew participated in cosmetic procedures and beauty services.
2. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Air quality was fine most of the year. I think there might have been a few days each year where there was some pollution.
3. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
Most people get allergies in the spring when the snow melts and everything starts to grow. I think a few people had mold issues in the spring as well when things started to melt.
4. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
Winter blues can be tough due to limited sunshine in the winter, and feeling cooped inside if you don't participate in hobbies or activities.
5. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Winters can get up to -40F which isn't as terrible as it sounds. Cold but with layers definitely manageable. Summer can reach 90-100F for a few days. Great but brief fall and spring each year.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
There were two international schools, QSI and Haileyberry. Parents were mixed but generally happy on the schools.
2. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Yes, there were a few local schools but most people had nannies.
3. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Yes: swim lessons, skiing lessons, archery, etc. In the summer, the city organizes concerts and events in the parks. In the winter, the city builds ice skating rinks and slides for children also.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Pretty limited. The expat community did not appear to be very active so we mostly just hung with other Americans.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Go to a bar or cafe. There are clubs and sports that people participated in.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
It's a better city for families. The singles I knew felt it as difficult to meet other singles and the city itself is more geared for families with activities in the winter and summer for families.
4. Is it easy to make friends with locals here? Are there any prejudices or any ethnic groups who might feel uncomfortable here?
More or less. Kazakhs are generally friendly and it takes some effort but once you're a friend, they're great. I've heard that African Americans may face some prejudice but I did not see that first hand.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
There is some but it's more subtle than overt.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
We loved the people. There are some really cool places to visit but you have to be willing to make the trek there. Western KZ for Mangistau, Almaty area for the lakes and canyons, skiing, etc. The country is beautiful.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Many people visited Boravoy in the summer and winter. People like to go to Almaty regularly for skiing or hiking in the summer. A couple of families would explore the steppe and go camping. Check out Mangistau in the spring.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
It's not really a shopping post but there are some handicrafts that you can find. Antique shops will carry interesting things like a Lenin bust. Fur is available but it is expensive. There are local artists who blend traditional with modern and fashion is a big thing. It's better as a beauty post - many women got hair, skin, cosmetic services done.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
It's a new city so things are spaced out and parking is plentiful. The city does a good job of providing activities for its residents in the winter and in the summer. The parks are gorgeous and accessible.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
Better for families. Winter isn't as bad as you're afraid of. You can most everything you need for the most part. There's a great consignment store for winter (and non-winter) clothing.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
100%. We'd go back in a heartbeat.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Most of your summer clothing. One to two pairs of shorts is all you need max.
4. But don't forget your:
Winter clothing. and winter gear.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
On youtube, there's a created called @Miraas (I think). He has 3 great videos on Kazakhstan.
6. Do you have any other comments?
Don't be afraid of the cold! This is a fabulous country.
