Almaty, Kazakhstan Report of what it's like to live there - 03/27/08
Personal Experiences from Almaty, Kazakhstan
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No, this is my third expat experience.
2. How long have you lived here?
About 1 year.
3. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
I am affiliated with the U.S. Government.
4. Travel time and best routes to this city from Europe or the US:
Flights from the U.S. are either via Amsterdam (KLM/NW), London (American/BA), or Frankfurt ( United/Lufthansa). Different people prefer certain routes, but no matter how you cut it up, it will take over 24 hours of travel time to get from the East coast in the U.S. to Almaty.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Housing is pretty good, but a dramatic increase in rent prices has made it difficult for the Mission to keep some very nice properties. Most are happy with their houses, with most families that have children being placed in houses, and singles/empty-nesters into apartments. The housing is not clustered, but all within about 20 mintues of the USG buildings in the city.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Groceries are expensive, especially if you want U.S. brands ( Philly cream cheese-US$ 10/8 oz). We've dong a good job finding local substitutions, so overall, I'd say we spend a little more than we would in the U.S. on groceries.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Any comsumables that you can't live without....any favorite junk foods.....wine...tequilla.....snow tires....
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
There is no fast food ( that teenagers would consider fast food). There are many restaurants in Almaty, they're all VERY expensive and not worth the cost. A dinner for 2 with a beer for each diner can cost US$70-80. We just don't go out, and have learned that it's much less frustrating avoiding the meals-out thing.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
You're out of luck without pouch as the local mail is unreliable. DHL/UPS are very expensive (US$80 for flat 8 x 10).
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Available, but costly. A full-time maid is between US$450-600/month. It's getting harder to find help, as the local job market has really taken off, and wages are better for those that may have been happy working for expats in the past.
3. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
No problems here other than an ATM eating a card ( which could happen anywhere).
4. What English-language religious services are available locally?
There is a Catholic church, with English Mass at 5 on Saturdays. It think there are other demoninational services also.
5. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
We all use AFN at post, but some also have local cable, with about 5 English channels.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
I can't make this clear enough: You need to know Russian!! There are hardly any signs in English (why would there be, really), so it's like being 4 all over again and not knowing how to read anything. In fact its like being less than 4, since I'm pretty sure I knew my alphabet by age 4, (which I couldn't say for myself when I showed up here).
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
A big yes to this question. The sidewalks are ankle-busters, and in the winter, there would seem to be a ban on snow shovels, as the snow/ice just keeps on piling up, adding to the treachery.
Transportation:
1. Do you drive on the right hand side of the road or the left?
Right, mostly. The driving here is some of the worst I have ever seen. They just painted lines on the roads last week, which should make things interesting.
2. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Safe, but probably not very healthy.
3. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Bring something you aren't too proud of. There are many nice cars on the roads here, but most are violently driven, and accidents are pretty common. A SUV or 4-wheel drive would be best if you want to go up to the mountains. We didn't have problems going up skiing in our minivan, but we got studded tires for the winter.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
No, not really. We have ADSL, which is a little faster than dial-up for about US$60/month. Reportedly some have faster service, but it's spotty at times.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
You will need one. Try and buy an unlocked phone from the U.S., as they're very expensive here. Get a SIM card once you show up.
3. What is the best way to make phone calls back home?
Skype works...we use it.
Pets:
1. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
There are pretty good vets, with ones that makes housecalls. Kennels are also available, but most have help or others at post watch their pets when they're gone.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Not unless you speak Russian or Kazakh.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Business dress at work. The women wear the highest heels I have ever seen...even in the winter, using their heels as ice-picks to manage the sidewalks.
Health & Safety:
1. Pollution index (Good, Moderate, Unhealthy, or Very Unhealthy)?
Pollution is horrible especially in the winter when there is a thermal inversion layer at the base of the mountains. Having said that, people with asthma seem to do fairly well.
2. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
None really except for the typical big city precautions one would take anywhere in the world. It's probably safer here than most U.S. cities of this size ( 1.5 million or so).
3. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Most tend to have diarrhea when moving here.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Nice summers and nice winters ( if you like snow) and short falls.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Ahh, this is the big issue in Almaty. There are 4 main schools that USG folks/expats send their kids to, and in my honest opinion, not one is signifcantly better than any other. Some are closer to the city center, some follow a more traditional educational program. Overall, we are very disappointed in the schools, especially when you think about the great international schools at other posts. If you come to post with children (especially middle school and high school age), know this: You will need to be a strong advocate for your child/children in every facet of the educational process at each school. Overall, I wouldn't recommend coming to post with children in the upper grades unless there is no other option (and personnaly for us, boarding school wasn't an option)
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
This would not be a place to bring a child with special needs.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Although we don't have younger kids, some at post are happy with the preschool programs that are available. THe CLO has good information on this.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Very small, which is one reason I think that this is a difficult post.
2. Morale among expats:
Fair..... to good.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Most entertain at home. There are no movies (in English), and as mentioned above, the restaurants are expensive. There are lots of opportunites to view ballet, symphony and opera, and the quality is pretty high from what I've heard.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
The school issue makes this a difficult issue to answer. I would say that it's a great city for infants/toddlers/preschooler families, and there certainly is plenty to do ( parks, etc). Singles ( men) seem to do OK. I think that this is a hard place to be a single female, especially with a very small expat crowd. Couples seem to do fine.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
I would guess it's OK, but I don't think there would be a lot of tolerance for open affection between same-sex couples.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
I would have to say no, there seems to be no specific prejudices that I've noticed.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
The winter is by far the best season in Almaty. The ski resort, Chimbulak, is 20 minutes up the mountain from the city center, and though it isn't cheap ( about US$20 for a 2 hour pass!), the convenience makes up for the cost. You can leave your house at 9:30, be on the slopes by 10, and be home for lunch by 12:30 ( avoiding the price-gouging at the lunch place there).
The outdoor skating rink in the same area is fantastic, if not a little crowded. It's where the Soviet speed-skaters used to train. There are amazing winter hikes and sledding opportunities. In the summer, the moutains are again a source for diversion, and those that get up and out of the city seem to be the happiest.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
They have some local felt rugs that are nice, and some regional pottery ( Uzbekistan), really cool fur hats.
9. Can you save money?
Absolutely not.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
I'd have to say no.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Need for efficiency.
3. But don't forget your:
Skis/snowboard, ice-skates, sleds, hiking boots and your sense of humor, good winter clothing, boots.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
6. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
7. Do you have any other comments?
Overall, this is a very liveable place, but there are many things that make it a difficult post. Some of it is the isolation of Central Asia and the fact that it's VERY expensive to leave the region... some of it is the language barrier... and some of it is the fact that things we all like about living in another culture are hard to experience here secondary to cost and the reality that a lot of the culture of this region is not visible in the big city of Almaty. On paper it should be more enjoyable that it actually turns out to be, and many of us haven't quite figured out why.
