Almaty, Kazakhstan Report of what it's like to live there - 05/14/12
Personal Experiences from Almaty, Kazakhstan
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Yes.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
It's 6-7 hours to western Europe, and then again that much to the East Coast of the US.There are daily connections on all kinds of airlines: Lufthansa, KLM, Turkish Airlines, British Airways, etc., so it's actually pretty easy to get out.
3. How long have you lived here?
One year.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
U.S. Government.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
The US government community is in apartments exclusively. They are quite large and nice, and many have underground parking for cars in the winter. I have a 35-minute walking commute or a 10-minute taxi ride. Most people have about the same, although we're starting to expand to apartments a bit further away.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
I've been amazed at the quantity of Western goods here. It's expensive (like the US +10%) but you can get a lot. If you have brand names you like, bring them, but you can get hummus, peanut butter, cornmeal, etc. Fruits and vegetables are abundant, delicious and affordable during the summer, but in the winter the variety decreases dramatically. That said, it wasn't nearly as bad as I was expecting, and if you're willing to shell out the money you can usually get a lot of the vegetable products you want. Tofu can be found at the Korean markets. Meat quality varies a lot and is very expensive ($10/lb for beef--oddly, the fattier the cut, the more it is, so sirloin can be found at US-level prices). Other than Russian-style sausage, pork products are more unusual, especially bacon.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
A treadmill. The dip pouch provides most of what Almaty cannot, but that's not much.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
The only western chains in Kazakhstan are KFC, Pizza Hut, and Hardees. There's also one Cinnabon at the largest mall in town. Street food here is mostly meat pies (samsa) or turkish donor kebabs. Going out is quite expensive: it's difficult to have a beer and dinner for less than $30. That said, there are some gems. Korean restaurants are quite good. There's also good Georgian, Uzbek, Indian, and Italian. There's a Thai restaurant that I think is the most expensive restaurant in the city. There are a ton of sushi places, but the quality varies dramatically.
5. What kinds of organic, vegetarian and allergy-friendly foods are available, such as organic produce, gluten-free products, meat substitutes for vegetarians, etc?
This is a meat and bread culture. However, tofu is available at Korean markets, there are lots of canned/frozen beans and vegetables. The bazars have amazing dried fruit and nut selections. It's easy to cook vegetarian at home. I'm less sure about the availability of allergy foods and gluten-free products.
6. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
None.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Dip pouch, bless it!
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Help is expensive compared to other posts. I have a lady come twice a month to clean, usually a 1/2 day a visit. She charges $35. English language skills vary significantly, so it's a good way to practice Russian.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Gyms are extremely expensive in Almaty. A 1-time pool visit will cost about $40 USD.Memberships can be more than $2000/yr. It's definitely better to bring exercise equipment with you or avail yourself of the mountains out your door.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
ATMs are widely distributed around the city, but I limit my use to one next to the office. I've been told that credit card fraud is an issue here, but I've never had a problem. Cash is used for local transport, the bazar, grocery stores and many restaurants, but credit card use is gaining in popularity.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
TV, yes, although I don't have cable. Newspapers/books, no. I think TV is $50-100/month.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Life is better if you speak Russian. While English is gaining traction quickly, it's still much easier to get out and about if you speak Russian.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
It would be difficult, though not impossible. The whole city is on an incline, and while there are ramps at most intersections and sidewalk steps, I think they are designed more for strollers than wheelchairs. The curbs can be tall and there are open drains along the side of the roads that are quite deep. There are often stairs inside of buildings (at entrances, etc.) with no accompanying ramps or elevators.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Yes, yes, and yes. The cabs are the only cheap thing in Almaty, with a trip anywhere in downtown costing $2-3 USD.You should negotiate the fare before you get in the car.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
You have to bring one that can handle the winter. Four-wheel drive and high clearance are typical, plus studded snow tires. Many apartments have underground parking, and servicing seems to be available here. If you're single, you can easily live without a vehicle, but it's much more difficult with a family.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, I have very good internet service that costs about $40/month. But across the expat community price and speed vary significantly for no explainable reason.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
If you want an iPhone, bring it!
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No.
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Good vets, not sure about kennels. The USG pet-owning community tends to look after itself.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Without Russian language skills it's very difficult to find work.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Kazakhs take great care with their appearance, so work attire tends to be suits for men, suits or nice blouse/trousers/skirt for women.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Almaty's an extremely safe city. You should be aware of petty crimes, but even pick-pocketing isn't that common. As a single woman, I feel very safe on the streets.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Other than the air pollution, this is a good post healthwise. Minor stuff can be dealt with here.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
The air quality is quite bad. In the winter you get a classic temperature inversion while people are burning coal to heat their homes. There are lots of old cars that spew fumes into the air year 'round.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
It's a continental climate, so there are hot summers, cold winters, and a short spring and fall. In the winter, the temperatures average between -10 and -20C, but as long as you're properly outfitted with coat and boots, it's not bad. The sun shines most of the time, and at least it's not as cold as Astana. In the summer it's usually around 28-32C and dry. Most precipitation falls as snow during the winter.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
No kids, so can't say. I think most of the kids all go the same school, and I've heard people comment that the high school isn't great.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Small. All of the embassies have moved to Astana. There are few international NGOs, donor offices tend to be small, and the business community is dispersed.
2. Morale among expats:
Expats in Almaty usually come in one of two types: those with former Soviet experience and those without. Morale definitely tends to be higher in the former group, but it's good overall.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
There are plenty of restaurants and bars. There's also a ballet/opera theater and a symphony. Movies are dubbed into Russian. They get random sporting events on a regular basis (ski jumping, rugby, volleyball, ice field hockey??).
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
I think it's good for families and couples without children if they like to be outside. I've heard it can be a little hard to find stuff to do with kids if you don't speak Russian. The single guys tend to end up married pretty quickly, but for a single lady like me, the dating scene is non-existent. Going out is quite expensive, and the quality is mediocre. So this is definitely a post better suited for outdoor enthusiasts, and if you are one, then it's heaven.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
I don't know, but I imagine it's not good. That's generally not tolerated in the countries of the former Soviet Union.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Coming from another post-Soviet state, one of the most pleasant surprises about Kazakhstan was tolerance for different religions and races. Many different ethnic groups were deported to Central Asia during Stalinist times, so it's quite a diverse population that rubs along together fairly well. There are definitely traditional gender roles in relationships, but in a Western workplace things are quite normalized.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
The exotic-ness of it all. Kazakhs are Chinese-looking people who are Muslim and speak Russian, so all of those influences are present in the culture. I've done some great hiking and amazing travel in the region to Uzbekistan, Tajikistan and northern Kazakhstan. And this is a little thing, but the roses in the spring are incredible!
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Hiking/skiing/camping/mountain climbing, floating on the Ili River, beach at lake Kapchagai, petroglyphs, picnics in the parks, Kyrgyzstan (only a 3 hour drive). In the region: Uzbekistan for the silk-road cities, flamingoes in Northern Kazakhstan, horse-trekking/hiking in the Tien Shan mountains and the Pamirs, mausoleums in western Kazakhstan, the Baikonur space launch pad. Everything's off the beaten track but awesome when you get there.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Carpets, funny hats of all varieties, felt handicrafts.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Almaty is a very special city. There are incredible mountains right outside town, so you're less than an hour from amazing hiking and skiing. The city is very green, clean and walkable, with lots of parks and wide sidewalks. Central Asia is isolated, but fascinating, so if you're willing in travel in the region you can visit the Silk Road cities of Uzbekistan and some of the most incredible mountains in the world in Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan. If you like places off the beaten path, this is for you. Plus, everyone who lives in Central Asia is very jealous of you, which does tend to make you smug :)
11. Can you save money?
It's tough, but possible.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Absolutely. Almaty is a pretty, pleasant and comfortable place to live. There are great outdoor activities, and all of Central Asia at your doorstep -- places very few Westerners ever see.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
beach gear.
3. But don't forget your:
eye drops, home gym equipment, outdoor gear, and winter clothes.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Apples are from Kazakhstan (can't remember the author), The Great Game by Peter Hopkirk
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
Borat-- JUST KIDDING!!
