Yaounde, Cameroon Report of what it's like to live there - 01/26/20
Personal Experiences from Yaounde, Cameroon
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
I've lived in Jerusalem and Guangzhou, China.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
From East Coast USA. We traveled through Europe and it was about 14 hrs of flight time - seven hours to Brussels or Paris, then seven hours to Yaounde.
3. How long have you lived here?
Six months.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic mission.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Our house is probably our favorite thing about Yaounde. It is spacious and close enough to everything we need including groceries, the embassy, and the American school. The yard has beautiful tropical plants, which we can enjoy from our many screened in balconies.
Without building codes, there are issues with wiring, plumbing, and maintenance. We have a generator, which we need as the power to our home can go out many times in a day. We also have a water pump provided by the embassy and a water tank. Inside the home, we have a water distiller. You won't find modern amenities here - like updated kitchens and bathroom - though I imagine that is on par for the region. You can find carpenters for a low enough price to make updates that you may like - we were able to add more kitchen shelves and even have a ping-pong table made for a pretty low price. The kitchen is big enough, and though we don't have a dishwasher, most people here hire household help.
Almost all expat homes (and all diplomat homes) are walled-in compounds which have barbed wire or other deterrent on all sides along with 24 hour guards. This took some time to get used to, but has become normal after six months.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
I think we are able to get most of what we need - especially with the diplomatic pouch. There are bakeries everywhere, and we get our meat from the local butcher. There are also a number of grocery stores with all of the basics - I have Celiac disease and was pleasantly surprised to find they have a good selection of gluten-free products on the shelves of the import store. There is a store here that is very close to an American Target store, called Orca, with everything from decorative bathroom curtains/sets and kitchen supplies to furniture, but it is at least 2X the price of anything you would buy in the states. My kids' biggest complaint is the taste of shelf-stable milk - which is the only kind we can find here. Otherwise we are happy with the food.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
The big thing people complain about is the price of oils: they mainly have palm oil here, so vegetable oils and olive oil are a little more expensive. Considering the low cost of living here, I don't mind paying more for the olive oil or having it shipped in my "consumables" shipment.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Restaurants are the one thing Yaounde has going for it. I have had pizza delivered; there is one pizzeria owned by an Italian woman and her brother that we like. You can find Chinese, Turkish, Burgers (we all like the Burger Bar), and of course local food. My family (including three kids) all enjoy eating out here.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
It is a tropical climate, so you will have bugs in/around your home. It is a Malaria country, so we are all on the preventative meds.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
We have diplomatic pouch.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
We have a housekeeper/nanny who watches the kids after school and takes care of the house 40 hours/week. We pay roughly US $300/mo and understand that is a good price. We also have a gardener who comes 2x per week and makes US $125 per mo. He cleans the car (weekly as it is a very dusty place), grows some veggies, and maintains the beautifully landscaped tropical yard. Many people also hire drivers, and if they have kids, nannies.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
The Hilton Hotel has a gym with classes one can join. The embassy has a small gym. The roads aren't particularly safe to go for a walk or job (one of my biggest frustrations) but there is Mt. Febe, which many people job up for a good workout. There are also a few workout groups at the embassy for Crossfit, yoga, and hiking.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
No. Cash economy. We only use the ATM at the US Embassy.
5. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
We both speak French, but I imagine one could get by with just English.
6. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Yes. This city is challenging without disabilities (one will find giant deep holes in the few places with sidewalks), and not understanding in any way of non-visible disabilities.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
I do not recommend life here without a car. We are not allowed to use public transport. Taxis are all very old and broken up cars that only drive when they have filled up with at least two more people than is safe.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
The roads are not maintained - so you need a car that can go over broken roads with big holes. We have heard Toyata is easy to get fixed. We have an SUV. Don't bring a new car. Your car will get scratched just by the way folks drive here.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Internet is very frustrating here. It took time to get it installed here and it is not reliable. The government will shut it down for political reasons - like when the President is traveling - for a weekend at a time. It is a good idea to have some kind of back-up. We have found Google-fi with unlimited data to be very nice as a back-up. If possible, have your host set this up before arrival. Without public transportation and safe roads (it isn't recommended to be on foot after dark) it is pretty quiet without internet in the home.
Crucial item to buy: Battery back-up for the TV/Router. Our electricity can cut out many times an hour and it can be frustrating when the internet needs to restart that often. We were able to buy a battery back up locally and that was a game changer.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
You can get a local number for a descent price. We also like having Google-Fi with unlimed data (though it must be set up in the US).
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
We work at the US Embassy.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
I will start by saying my family feels safe here following the guidelines. That said, there are security concerns. As stated, each home is a compound with 24 hour guards and high secured walls. It is not recommended to take public transportation or to be on foot after dark. I would not allow my kids to walk around outside unsupervised - something that was an adjustment after living in China. With the current crisis in Cameroon, Yaounde feels pretty safe but there are restrictions to which regions we should visit.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Local medical care is very rudimentary. A "hospital" near our home looks like a collection of old shacks. We have medical care through the Embassy, are able to have some labs done locally, and are able to get some meds from local pharmacies. My son was able to get an x-ray from a local place and get it set at the embassy medical unit. I think most serious issues are med-evacuated to Paris.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Pretty good, though there is a lot of dust in the air during dry season (from Nov. - March).
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
Gluten free products are available at the Casino grocery chain - with imported French products. Restaurants understand the concept and can speak to the ingredients in their food. Most products in the grocery store are clearly labeled with allergen info.
5. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Pretty perfect all year round. We can use the embassy pool (or ASOY pool) year-round.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
There is American International School and another Christian school (which is much farther from the area where US embassy is located). Speaking for the American school, we are generally happy with the school. They have a nice community of teachers and families. They follow the PYP program, which we like. Each grade has about 10-20 students. There are many after school activities offered, which is nice as there are almost no other open/public parks or places to take children outside of school. We have been happy academically with the teachers and programs for all of our kids.
That said, I would not recommend Yaounde for families with older kids. Middle and high school families are not as happy as the kids are so limited. My middle schooler can't really go out on her own here - besides having friends over or going to a friend's home - which is hard for kids who want/need more independence. With only 11 classmates in 8th grade, kids can struggle to find friends as they are stuck with the same kids all day/week. I can't stress enough how little there is to do here - outside of school and each other's homes. It is the kind of place where you really have to make your own fun.
2. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
The American school has a preschool program that I believe starts at age 3, but I believe it is expensive. Life with toddlers can be very limited as there are almost no parks/playgrounds for kids to run around and play. Definitely no safe sidewalks. The only public park I have seen, which is on Mt. Febe, is about as old as I am and not very well cared for. My older kids were fine, but I wouldn't let a toddler play there. I think parents of toddlers have to make their own fun here - forming groups through the embassy. Even then, I think it can be limiting. Especially when electricity/internet is limited so you can't rely on having Netflix or other entertainment as a back-up or break. With no sidewalks, there would be no use for a stroller here.
All this said, I think the Community Liaison Office (CLO) at the embassy has done a great job of providing programming for families each month. If bringing toddlers here, you should plan to bring indoor toys that kids can get energy out on. Mosquitoes can make outside play limiting - especially during dry season, though I think many homes have screened in porches for this reason.
3. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
There is a horseback riding place that many enjoy. I don't know what else is here - most of us do sports/activities through the school.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
It is hard to say about the size. We have found the expats here to be great, a nice and welcoming community.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
People have formed their own groups: setting up a time to play volleyball, do yoga together, or go on weekly hikes. It is the kind of place where you have to make your own fun. Most get togethers for embassy folks are either at the pool area or at one another's homes. There are a lot of restaurants here and the CLO usually plans a few things a month to do together.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
I can speak for families and say there are pros and cons. A big pro is that our family has spent more time together here - finding things to do when internet/electricity is spotty has meant lots of reading together and game nights. Or spending days by the embassy pool/playground. My younger kids have lots of sleepovers with friends. And the people here right now are really great - very welcoming.
It is also a very challenging place for us, mostly because it is struggling so much under country that does not feel invested in. Besides the activities that others are planning - like hiking groups - there is very little for us to do. Coming from Guangzhou, China, we miss having outdoor public spaces - either within a city or parks of any kind - to spend time. We miss having places to go and spend time outside of our homes/schools/embassy. We have combated this feeling by planning trips every few months. Kribi beach is a beautiful place to escape that is about a four hour drive.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
It could be difficult for LGBTQI folks here as there is a lot of stigma, and sometimes violence and arrests against locals who are perceived to be gay. For LGBTQI teens, I would note that there is probably stigma in the schools. I was told by a teacher that LGBTQI issues need to be discussed with caution as homosexuality is still thought of as wrong in the homes of some local students.
5. Is it easy to make friends with locals here? Are there any prejudices or any ethnic groups who might feel uncomfortable here?
I have found the locals to be mostly friendly and understand Cameroon to be a tolerant place to different religious and ethnic groups. Christianity is the dominant religion, but there is also a large Muslim population. While there is no local Jewish population, I don't believe there is any stigma here against Jewish expats.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
This has not been an issue for us. There are a lot of problems for local women/girls in Cameroon, but that does not seem to affect the expat community. i don't feel less safe as a woman here.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
We took a beach trip to Kribi. It was just so relaxing to lay on the beach, or have a local cook a full fish and plantain meal right on the beach for us. The entire family loved our days there.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
It is really limited.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
You can find some neat art here - they grow some amazing kinds of wood here in Cameroon and you can buy masks or other wooden items made from this beautiful wood.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
As with any hardship post, the community is pretty tight.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
It would not be a top choice.
2. But don't forget your:
Whatever you need to have fun at your home. Balls to play with, a volleyball or other net, things to do outside, and non-electricity ways to have fun. We made a craft room for our kids with all sorts of fun things to make/play. If you have a hobby, this is the place to do it.
