Yaounde, Cameroon Report of what it's like to live there - 04/30/17
Personal Experiences from Yaounde, Cameroon
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No, multiple previous posts in Africa, Latin America, and Asia.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
United States, about 20-24 hours to the East Coast via Paris, Brussels, Addis, or Casablanca.
3. How long have you lived here?
Two years.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic mission.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
The housing is pretty good overall, and the typical commute varies from one to ten minutes. The houses tend to be on the larger side. Some have yards, and some have pools, but few have both. There are some newer apartments for singles and couples, which tend to be very close to embassy. The embassy is located at the edge of Bastos and Golf, in the expatriate area, and the housing is all in these areas, too.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
The availability and cost were both better than I expected. The main supermarkets (Casino, Mahima, Dovv, etc.) aren't huge, but they're well-stocked. There's also a very nice butcher than has quality meats at U.S. prices or better as well as a nice selection of cheeses. The commissary at the embassy is very well stocked as well, including a large selection of frozen foods that fills in the gaps where products are too expensive or not available locally. For dry products, Amazon or other online grocers come in handy to get better prices on dry products such as cereal that tend to be more expensive locally.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
This is a consumables post, and the key thing is to make sure to ship any liquids, creams, gels, etc., that cannot come via pouch. This would include both food items and cleaning products.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
There are several solid restaurants with various cuisines. Looking at the current rankings on Trip Advisor gives you a good idea of what is available, although there are several others as well. Most are in the Bastos area and readily accessible from the embassy and housing. There isn't fast food in the American sense, but there are a few restaurants that provide a Cameroonian version, and there are a few places that have good pizzas, too.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
It's warm all year, so ants can be an issue if you leave food out. Mosquitoes aren't that bad at most houses, but you're still advised to take precautions such as mosquito nets over beds, particularly for children.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
We use the pouch, which takes 2-3 weeks in most cases. It has the normal size and weight restrictions, which allows you to receive most things you need other than liquids, which are much more limited. Outgoing mail is limited to letters and very small packages.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Household help is readily available. Quality varies, but many people have been very happy with their employees. Housekeepers are almost universally employed, as the houses get very dusty in dry season if they aren't regularly cleaned. Most people with kids have nannies. Those with yards usually have pools. Many have cooks (or let their maids cook), but it can be hard to find someone who knows foreign cuisine. Several people have drivers, too, since Cameroon generally restricts diplomatic families to one duty-free vehicle. Cost varies, but roughly $10-15 per day is a reasonable estimate.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
The embassy has a good gym with machines, cardio equipment, and free weights, which is open to embassy staff and their families. There is an outdoor basketball court; a flat, grassy lawn that has been used for soccer, ultimate frisbee, and flag football; and a nice pool on compound that includes lap lanes,. The tennis court at the residence is available for use as well.
The embassy literally overlooks the adjacent golf course, which costs $500 - $1,000 per year for a membership or $25-35 for a day, plus $8 per 18 holes for a caddy and $2 for a small bucket of balls at the range.
There is also a weekly volleyball game and monthly softball game in the community. Probably the most popular walking route in Yaounde starts just down the street from the embassy, with hundreds of locals and expats walking to and up Mont Febe each morning, evening, and weekend.
In addition, there are gyms, pools, squash and tennis courts, etc. available on the local economy. Most are as cheap or cheaper than in the U.S., but the quality tends to be lower, too.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Credit cards are not commonly used thus far but may become more common in the coming years. There is an ATM at the embassy, and people have used others, such as the one at the Hilton, without problems.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
There are Catholic and Protestant Christian services available in English. I'm not sure about other religions.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
English is more common than I expected, but French is definitely the primary language. Still, you could probably get by with only the basics for shopping and going to restaurants. There are classes available at the U.S. embassy for staff and dependents.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
This would be tough place to be if you have limited mobility. The U.S. embassy and housing would be fine, but the city isn't at all set up for it otherwise.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
We don't use the street taxis, trains, or local buses, but they are affordable for locals and other expats who do. There are car services, including Uber-inspired versions, that are available and reasonably priced. You can thus get by with just one car, particularly if you don't mind walking since many things you need will not be that far away.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Locally available makes include Toyota, Mitsubishi, Hyundai, Kia, Ford, Citroen, Peugeot, and Mercedes, so parts for these are more readily available, at least in the models sold locally. If you plan to travel outside Yaounde, you'd benefit from having a 4x4 with decent clearance, and it's useful locally in rainy season, too. Some get by with a sedan, though.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Internet has improved greatly in the last couple years, following Cameroon's connection to a new offshore cable. Speeds aren't nearly as high as the U.S. but will support online video streaming. Prices vary between $40 and $120 depending on the specific connection you choose; most are in the $40-70 range. Installation varies but can be a matter of a few days in some cases.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
You'll want to use a local provider, if you're not issued a phone. Just bring a GSM phone and get it set up with a local SIM card and plan after arrival.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
There are local veterinarians that people use for standard care without any problems. There are actually a few dog breeders in Yaounde, so pets are not entirely uncommon. There is no quarantine and no other restrictions, to my knowledge.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Most either work at the U.S. embassy, telecommute to a U.S. employer, or don't work. I don't know any who work on the local economy, other than at the international school.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
People have been involved with orphanages, women's groups, churches, NGOs, etc.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
It varies based on your specific job but leans towards business casual. If you have a formal meeting or attend a reception, it's business dress, but some also are able to be on the casual side of business casual almost daily. Shorts aren't common in public except when exercising (many exercise in long pants, but some in shorts), but casual dress is otherwise common in public.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
In Yaounde, there are the standard security concerns with petty theft, pickpocketing, etc. Break-ins happen but are not common, and overall it's a fairly safe place as long as you are smart and not in places you shouldn't be. There are security concerns further afield, such as in the far north, but you will never be there unless it's for work, in which case you'd have plenty of security.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Malaria is endemic, so you need to take your prophylaxis. This is sub-Saharan Africa, so HIV is something you don't want to chance. This is a Zika zone; it's not exceedingly common, but there is the option of an immediate medical evacuation during pregnancy. There are well-trained doctors available, and the emergency medicine in Yaounde will keep you alive if needed, but the medical facilities are limited overall, so anything serious or requiring surgery or non-standard tests requires medical evacuation to Pretoria, London, or the U.S.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
There is a fair amount of pollution and dust, particularly in the dry season. It isn't a major health issue for most people.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
Nothing unusual.
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
There are two rainy seasons and two dry seasons. September and October are the wettest months, and the rains usually start sometime in August and end sometime in November. The main dry season starts after that and runs through February. It rains fairly regularly again until June, and then there is another, shorter dry season that lasts a couple months and isn't nearly as dry as the one between December and February.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
The American School of Yaounde has made a large investment in its facilities in recent years, and its classrooms and library are quite nice now. There is also a basketball court, playground, pool, tennis court, and small, artificial turf sport field available; there isn't enough space for a full-size field. The elementary school generally gets good reviews, with classes ranging from 10 to 18 students. The high school classes are smaller but gradually growing, and the IB program is available.
There is also a French school, Fustel, that is a good option if your kids speak French and are admitted. Rain Forest International School is a middle and high school that also has an American curriculum, but it tends to have only missionary kids and locals, as it is very far from the U.S. embassy and housing.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
ASOY has a dedicated learning support counselor and works to accommodate minor learning disabilities. Details are available at http://asoy.org/asoy-academic-program/student-support-services/.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
ASOY has a preschool and has before and after-school care, but it is relatively expensive, and bus transportation isn't available for preschool students, which can be an issue since the school is downtown. Fustel's preschool is a bit cheaper, but it is even farther from the housing, as it is at the Fustel primary school campus (the lycee is closer to our housing). Ecole Le Flamboyant is a bilingual (primarily French, some English) school that gets good reviews, is near the housing, and is reasonably priced, and some have used Amity International School and 1, 2, 3 Soleil! in the past and been content. Nannies are probably the most commonly used option for preschool-aged kids.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
There is an informal soccer group at the U.S. embassy, and embassy kids take full advantage of the pool and playground.
ASOY families have free access to the facilities there after school and on weekends. After school activities include soccer, basketball, volleyball, badminton, tennis, swimming lessons, hip-hop dancing, and African drumming and are free or have a nominal fee.
Fustel and Le Flamboyant also provide a range of after school activities for a reasonable price, and tae kwon do is available at the Hilton. There is also a horse riding club near the embassy.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
The expatriate community isn't huge, but it's concentrated, so you see most all of them. Morale varies but is pretty good on the whole. Yaounde isn't exactly nice in the traditional sense, but it's very livable once you get used to it and can be very enjoyable if you don't expect Manhattan.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Exercise, hanging out at the embassy pool, Marine house happy hours or movies, entertaining at home, and going to restaurants are most common. Les Gourmettes is a club for expat spouses and has activities in French and English. There are a few local swimming and tennis clubs, but they aren't popular with Americans since our facilities are free and nicer.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
It's probably best for families with small kids and couples. Many singles are happy, but some are not if they want Western dating opportunities, as that market gets small quickly. Older kids would currently have relatively few peers.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
There are some that do not seem to have major issues, although it is not common, at least openly, among locals.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Gender equality is better than many places in Africa. There is an issue with the Anglophone region, but Anglophones and Francophones get along relatively well in Yaounde. Catholicism and Protestant Christianity are most common, but there is a sizable Muslim minority, and there are no major issues with this.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
With little kids, this can be a great place. There is plenty for them to do, and you can have plenty of household help. You also get to spend lots of quality time together, as the commute is almost non-existent. There are some decent travel destinations as well, between the beaches, mountains, and parks.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Gorillas, beaches, mountains.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
There are some talented local artisans, particularly with wood.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Short commute, exercise opportunities, decent restaurants.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
It can take a while for people to warm up and to get used to the local lifestyle and rhythm, but this can be a very enjoyable post if your expectations are reasonable.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes, definitely, as long as I didn't have major medical problems or high school kids, although the latter may improve in coming years.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Winter gear.
4. But don't forget your:
Umbrella and sports gear.
