Yaounde, Cameroon Report of what it's like to live there - 01/23/14
Personal Experiences from Yaounde, Cameroon
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No. We have done other assignments in Africa and Europe.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Our home base is Washington DC and it takes about 6 hours to Paris and then another 7 or so to DC. All the flights out of Yaounde are red-eye. That can be hard with young kids.
3. How long have you lived here?
We lived there for 3 years and just recently left in 2012.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
My husband worked at the U.S. Embassy in Yaounde.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
There are apartments, semi-detached, and detached single family homes. When you are filling out your housing questionnaire, this is important to know: the Embassy has a killer swimming pool and amazing play ground. With that in mind, do you want an apartment or a semi-detached house with no yard within walking distance to the Embassy? Or do you want a single family home with little or no yard? Do you want a newer home? Do you want an older home with a huge yard? (there are only a couple with huge yards.) Do you want a single family home with a pool?
It's important to prioritize what you want because you will not get everything. You can get the newer home with the nice kitchen, but have no yard or pool. You can get the old house with an awesome yard, but no pool. Or the ok house with a pool. Just figure out what is the most important thing to you, and put that as your number one on the housing questionnaire. Also, things will go wrong with the houses, but MGT had some awesome staff that will help and fix things.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Yaounde has a few ok groceries stores. The selection is ok. There are no fresh dairy products available in Yaounde, at least while we were there. Fresh produce, chicken, and beef is bought from the market. Then your housekeeper soaks it up in bleach water to kill all the bacteria on it.
What makes Yaounde special is that the Embassy has a frozen food shipment once a year. Think spare ribs, blueberries and strawberries. You make a bulk order, store it in your freezer and ration it out for the rest of the year. Lots of people go heavy on the cheeses and meats. There is a new butcher shop in town, so maybe that'll cut down on the ordering of meat, but it sure is nice to order those special American treats. Christmas hams, Thanksgiving turkeys, etc.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
I would ship extra tires in HHE. Also, anything you may want for the kids - trampoline, play sets, little pools to put in the yard, arts and crafts, kids paints, birthday gifts, etc. You won't be able to buy these things locally.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Not so much fast food. Cafe Yaounde, an Italian restaurant, has great food. La Salsa is another popular one. There are restaurants scattered about. Some have live music, so that's a plus. If you like to eat in, a lot of people hire amazing cooks.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Cockroaches. I shudder at the memories. There are snakes and spiders, but we never had any problems with them. Malaria is prevalent. We took mefloquine the whole time there, in the city and when traveling.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Through the Embassy pouch.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
We had a driver and a housekeeper/cook. It was about US$250 a month per person and then some added on benefits like transportation allowance, toiletries, etc.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Embassy has a small gym. Otherwise, I know of nothing. Some people go running in groups.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
It's a cash society. The embassy cashier will cash checks for you.
5. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Yaounde is strong on the French. You may be a little lost without some basic French, but both French and English are spoken in the country.
6. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Yes. Think lack of infrastructure. No sidewalks, bad roads to walk on, no elevators in buildings.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Afforadable, yes. Safe? I'm not sure. Embassy provides motor pool assistance for all family members, but it's first come first go, semi-unreliable service. You will want to have your own car.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
We had a 4x4 and it was great. Toyota is king in Africa, so if you need repairs and spare parts, go with toyota. Qualified technicians are hard to find.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
We got our internet through the embassy, but ask the CLO if they still offer it. Creolink offers services. There are other options, but I'm not too familiar with them.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
No. You can get a prepaid there. You may find someone who can unlock your iPhone and then it'll work.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No. Vets are available and seem good. We took in a street cat and the vet was knowledgable and did a good job.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Not too many. You may need to get a job through the Embassy or an NGO.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Endless...
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Cameroonians go a bit more formal people for official things. Most official events are business dressed. In public, casual is fine. Women can wear sleeveless tops, but it's a bit more racy to show leg. Longer or knee-length shorts and skirts/dresses are considered more appropriate.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
In Yaounde, it's the normal things. Lock your doors, don't go around with lots of money, jewelry, or purses. Just put a bit of cash in your pocket when out and about. Don't walk around with a camera taking pictures. If you do have a camera, ask before you take pictures of people. I think the security concerns are more important when traveling out of town. Travel up north may be prohibited for U.S. embassy employees and family members ever since the French family was kidnapped while vacationing there.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Medical care is a big one. We survived stitches, broken bones, a pregnancy, and one medevac during our tour. The Embassy Health Unit was amazing through it all. The facility itself is amazing. It's brand new and has its own lab. The staff is really supportive, especially of kids. Anytime the kids get sick, they are there and have a great pharmacy to help. The trickier part is the city and a way out. We had a medical emergency while the President was out of his palace. That's when all the roads are down and traffic is even messier than usual. We had to wait until the roads opened back up before we could get medical attention. If there is an emergency medevac, then it's one flight a day and hopefully you get to the airport in time and hopefully there is a seat left type of thing. If medical concerns make you nervous, this should probably not be your first choice to live.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
The air quality is ok. Some seasons are better than others. It's common to burn trash on the street (not cool when tires are included in the trash heap).
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
There is the hot and wet and the hot and semi wet season. Pack your crocs because they are easy to wash mud off during the wet season. There is a bit of a cool period, usually in August, and you may wear a long-sleeve shirt or cardigan then, but otherwise, pack for the tropics.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
There is the American School. It seems nice. It's across town from the Embassy and all the embassy housing, so going through downtown traffic to get your kids isn't ideal. Our kids went to Flamboyant, a French-speaking primary school. It was awesome and we loved it. They only allow 16 kids per class (preschool to 5th grade), so if you want to explore this option, sign up as soon as you get your assignment to Cameroon. The waiting list is LONG. Even if you don't want to go to this school, get on the waiting list because you may change your mind once you get there and see how cute it is. We really liked the director, teachers, curriculum, extra activities, and community of expats and locals.
Here is the blog: Ecole Internationale "Le Flamboyant"
The CLO should be able to help you get registered.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
I think none.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
There is 1-2-3 soilel as well for preschools, and they accept younger kids than Flamboyant. Otherwise, people usually just have nannies.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Yes, through Flamboyant and the American school. Nothing competitive, just afterschool type of things.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
The size of the expat community is small to moderate, but there are some awesome people there. Lots of Germans and French.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Having fun with friends. Watching movies at home at night. Personal hobbies.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Great city for families. The embassy community and morale was really high while we were there, so it seemed to me that singles and couples did well too. Lots of get together's and BBQs that included all. Not a lot of outside entertainment (no movie theaters, bowling, etc), so if you're cool with gatherings with friends and your own hobbies, then you'll be fine.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
I would avoid living here if I were gay or lesbian because it's against the law in Cameroon. Society is pretty harshly against it.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
I think being a member of the expat community, you are a bit separated from this. There are not a lot of White people about, so if you are White, you'll be a minority, but women can walk around in regular clothes and the country is both Christian and Muslim.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Making amazing friends. Enjoying lots of family time.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
The hidden gem in Yaounde is the Embassy pool and playground. It is seriously awesome. The pool is a huge lap pool with a larger square on the end (shallow end) for the kids to play. The playground has 3 slides, swings, a sandbox, etc. There are tables, lawn chairs, and a bar area at the pool with big fridges and charcoal BBQs. We would go and spend Saturdays at the pool and playground. The view from the pool is amazing. Lush hills covered in palm trees and it overlooks the golf course (so if you like golfing, there is a golf course). There is a horse club that offers lessons and horse rides to kids. The horse club (hippique) is also close to the Embassy. You can have kids birthday parties there too or just order drinks and sit on their veranda.
Outside of town, we loved Kribi, the beach town about 3 hours out of Yaounde.Our favorite hotels to stay were Ilomba and Hotel du Phare. Our absolute favorite was going to grand Batanga beach in Kribi. All along the beach are outdoor kitchens (as in a fire and a couple of pots). You rent a private section of the beach for a day and the cooks will smoke and grill fresh fish, prawns for you. Fry plantains and bread fruit and finish off with a platter of fresh tropical fruit. (About US$40 per person plus you pay more for drinks.) It's great to go with a couple of families and enjoy the day together. Nothing tastes better than fresh fish on the beach.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Amazing crafts. The Cameroonian circle tables carved from one piece of wood. Hand dyed batiks. Juju hats. Baskets. etc.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
The weather is great. You can save bucket loads of money. If you have an adventurous spirit and a great 4x4, then touring the country is also possible.
10. Can you save money?
Yes! Nothing to spend it on except occasional trips to Kribi.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes!
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Winter clothes. Expectations of infrastructure.
3. But don't forget your:
Sense of adventure and patience.
