Belfast, United Kingdom Report of what it's like to live there - 11/19/14
Personal Experiences from Belfast, United Kingdom
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Fifth -- St Petersburg, Russia, Dushanbe, Tajikistan, Baku, Azerbaijan, and London.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
NJ. To date, the only direct flight from Northern Ireland to the U.S. is a daily United flight to Newark. There is talk of offering another flight, I think, to Chicago. Otherwise, there are many flights from Dublin which is only 2 hours away, or you can get a connection in London. The direct flight is 6.5 hours westbound, 5ish hours eastbound.
3. How long have you lived here?
4 years.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Initially to study, but then I married a Brit and stayed for a bit.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
I don't know for Consulate personnel, although I think most either live in South Belfast (the posh area and close to the Consulate) or East Belfast (normal middle class neighborhoods). Both areas are lovely, although there are some more divided areas in East. Any part of the city is really only a 15-minute drive from any other part, so commuting shouldn't be too difficult regardless. Beware of mold in houses. Many houses don't have good insulation but they are older with quite pretty features. Also make sure you have a dryer -- quite a few houses don't, but with the rain it's really hard to dry clothes on a line.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
You can get anything you want (except pie tins!) but for more than in the U.S. I tended to go to a green grocers, butchers, and bakery -- most neighborhoods have them within walking distance, and the price is comparable to the large food stores but the quality is much better. If you are desperate for American food, Picnic in the City (Royal Avenue) and Sawyers (near the Waterstones) have a good selection.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Aunt Jemima's and pie tins.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
There's actually a surprising variety, given the size of the city. -- Although to date there is no vegetarian restuarant in town. McDonald's/KFC/BK are more expensive than in the States. Great NI take outs are Meat in a Bap, Boojums (like Chipotle), and Build A Burger. Bubbaque restaurant near City Hall has great pulled pork and bbq food. Made in Belfast and The Barking Dog have great casual-ish food -- but expect to pay 30-50 pounds for two people. Molly's Yard is lovely for a slightly fancier night out.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
None, really. Beware of moths eating your clothes.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Royal Mail, which is a bit slow but does the job.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Expensive.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Definitely. Priced as you would expect. There are also 'Leisure Centres,' which are kind of like YMCAs although government run.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Perfectly fine, few problems. -- Although there is one ATM on Botanic Avenue (just north of University Street) that is regularly targeted by people stealing card information.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Most religions are covered in Belfast. There are two mosques, one synagogue, and many more churches than you could ever want! For Protestant churches, I'd recommend looking into Fitzroy Presbyterian (social justice, ecumenism), Orangefield Presbyterian (large contemporary service), Kirkpatrick Memorial (good, middle class), City Church (contemporary, active nondenom), and Windsor Baptist (strong 20/30 somethings).
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Most people only speak English. Now, understanding their English is something different...
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Not really. My friend who is blind has no problem traveling around the city independently.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Safe and affordable. Do be careful sometimes -- there are two city-wide taxi companies, and many neighbourhood-based taxi companies. These latter will sometimes be reluctant to take you from a Catholic area to a Protestant area or vice versa, so if using them, it's normally best to get off in a neutral area and then walk the rest of the way home. Also, you need to call and arrange for a cab to pick you up, you can't hail one on the street (normally).
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Anything, but I'd recommend bringing something with good gas mileage and perhaps something that is a bit smaller. Ford Focus and Toyotas are common here.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
We paid about US$55 a month for internet and TV.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Much of a muchness, really. Three has unlimited internet, which can be useful for FaceTime calls to the States. I think O2 has the best coverage, although the differences are negligible.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
I assume so...
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Sure, especially in IT.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Lots. Whatever you'd find in a mid-sized city in the States, you'll probably find in Belfast.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Same as the U.S. Casual Fridays are taking on!
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Meh. Sometimes you will have to evacuate a train because there is a suspicious package on the tracks or things along those lines, but those are mostly just precautions. I never felt unsafe walking around the main streets alone at night. You have to be careful what clothing, colors, soccer jerseys, etc you wear in certain areas, but mostly foreigners -- especially Americans -- are left out of the Troubles-related security issues.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
The NHS is fine, and there's a strong private market for people who want faster service/are paranoid. Some maternity units are better than others, so if you're planning to have a child while here definitely do your research.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Fine, very humid. Most houses have some mold due to the constant rain.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
Asthma sufferers normally do better here than in the States. Do be aware of the mold in houses, though, especially if you are particularly sensitive to that.
5. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
While it rarely gets colder than 40F or warmer than 60F, it rains 300+ days a year. Autumns are dark, rainy, and miserable, summers are a disappointment (except for one or two glorious weeks), but springtime is more beautiful here than anywhere else in the world. From May through August, the sun doesn't set until around 10pm!
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
I don't think there are any international schools in Belfast. Methody, Academical Institution (boys only) and Belfast Royal Academy (BRA) are the best selective schools for the upper grades. Most public schools are great. Just be aware that traditionally Catholic kids go to Catholic schools and Protestant kids go to public schools and can tell each other's uniforms apart, which sometimes (but definitely not always, especially in the middle class areas) leads to bullying when they meet each other in the street or on the bus. There are mixed schools -- Lagan College is the main one -- and also Irish-language schools, which tend to attract a multicultural student body (and some Protestants, too): An Droichead in South Belfast is probably closest to the Embassy. Their elementary and preschool programs are fantastic.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
Special needs accommodation and assistance in Northern Ireland is a bit behind the rest of the U.K. and the U.S. but it's still quite good.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Yes available, at a rate probably equivalent to the US. I've known people who were very happy with Kids@BT9.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
I imagine... Soccer is huge here. Rugby is popular in the middle class, and boxing is popular in the working class.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
There isn't a really strong expat community in Belfast -- most people just blend in with the Northern Irish. That said, every expat I knew had trouble making really good friends with locals -- they are very friendly and nice, but most aren't interested in significant friendships.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
The same things you do in any Western city... There is a LOT of drinking here, it's difficult to do anything social with a Northern Irish person that doesn't involve some amount of alcohol.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Good for everyone! Great music and pub scene for singles/couples. Northern Ireland is a really great place to raise kids (except for the weather) -- lots of activities for kids, great schools, small enough to feel at home but large enough to have space when you need it.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
It's conservative for Western Europe, but it's still Western Europe. There's a string of LGBTQ clubs along Donegall Street.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Well, this is Belfast so obviously there are still religious prejudices re: Protestants and Catholics, although they tend to be better hidden in the middle class world. Most black people have a least one racist incident per year, especially beyond middle-class-world or outside Belfast. There is increasing prejudices against Polish people and the Roma.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Seeing a lot of Ireland and Northern Ireland, spending lazy evenings in the pub with a pint of the dark stuff and some great music, getting to see the many different faces of this place.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
So many! Off the typical tourist track (you can read about those in any guidebook), Crawfordsburn Beach is great for families on a sunny day. The John Hewitt pub has the best music, Kelly's Cellars has regular Irish music (so does Maddens, but it is also quite Republican!), The Spainard is a really tiny pub but also really good, and White's is my favorite for the traditional Irish pub feel. Every spring bank holiday weekend there is a Festival of Fools, where street performers from around the world converge on Belfast and put on shows for free.
Every Christmas there is a Continental Market selling German/Dutch/Polish/French/etc food, Christmas trinkets, and so forth, which is quite festive and fun. Queen's Film Theatre has a fantastic selection of classic, foreign, and art films, with reasonably priced tickets. Avoca, an Irish chain, serves the best scones in town. The Botanic Gardens are by far the best city park, although the Lagan Meadows are great for long walks or bike rides. Hiking up Cave Hill will give you the best view over the city. Kids love Belfast Zoo, and I think there's an indoor water park in Lisburn for them as well. Sawyers is a great foodie store. There's a great second-hand bookstore on North Street. Trains to Dublin are cheap as long as you buy tickets three or so days in advance. The best thing in Belfast is St George's Market, an indoor market open on Friday, Saturday and Sunday. It has live music on Saturday mornings and stalls with local crafts and goods as well as food and dessert stalls -- it's a great place to go shopping for unique birthday presents for the family back in the States. Also great for your weekly grocery shopping!
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Pottery, paintings, knittings, etc from St George's Market, Bushmills whiskey.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Everyone thinks it's so cool that you are living in Ireland (you give up trying to explain that you're not really in Ireland). It's the least expensive part of the U.K. but with okay transport links to Europe (primarily Spain and Amsterdam) and it's a beautiful little corner of the world. People are also quite friendly with Americans. It's a place that really gets under your skin, in a good way. Oh, and there's a great music scene!
10. Can you save money?
Yes, I suppose so, but I'd spend it on traveling and activities, if I were you.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
I wish I had known more about the Troubles. It's an insidious part of life here, and everyone assumes you know the basics. It helps to make sure you do know the basics!
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes, but I wouldn't stay as long as I did.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Rangers and Celtic jerseys and any other thing that is overtly republican or loyalist. Also, your picture of Belfast as constant riots and bomb scares. Also you're expectation of going to a mini-Ireland. Okay you get the funky place names and gorgeous scenery, but Northern Ireland is quite different from the South.
4. But don't forget your:
Love of music, sturdy umbrella, and waterproof shoes.
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
.6. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
.7. Do you have any other comments?
It would be a really nice, easy tour. Definitely worth it, in my opinion!
