Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates Report of what it's like to live there - 06/08/15
Personal Experiences from Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
4th expat experience
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Direct flights from DC and several other U.S. Cities to both Abu Dhabi and Dubai. About a 14-hour flight.
3. How long have you lived here?
3 years
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Embassy Abu Dhabi
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Embassy housing is great -- spacious and convenient. The embassy recently got rid of some houses that were quite far from the city and now all the residences are a very reasonable commute to work and most locations have either access to pools and other amenities, or the location and proximity to downtown locations can't be beat.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Available and can be expensive if you like western brands. Some stuff is inconsistently available (marichino cherries, frozen blueberries), and some cannot be found (extracts with alcohol).
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Vanilla extract, clothes and shoes (expensive here), sporting goods (expensive and poor quality).
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Everything and more. The only food that isn't widely available is pork and even that can be found in hotels. There are very cheap Indian restaurants, though you have to know here to look. Fast food is ubiquitous and about the same price as DC, and fancy foods of every ethnicity (though not good Mexican) is everywhere. If you aren't careful, you'll get chubby.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Ants in summer. Mosquitoes in winter. Ants come inside to find water and escape the heat. Mosquitoes find water and come to life around the greenery in winter.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
DPO! I love DPO. Many expat friends get mail through their company, however, and the UAE seems to thrive on post box addressees since residential addresses are still a work in progress.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Widely available and very good quality. You can find great help here and that has been a definite bonus to our stay.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Many compounds have gyms for residents and the embassy also has a small gym. Also, the Club (previously known as the British Club) has a modern and reasonable gym if you are a Club member (totally worth it IMHO). Otherwise the gyms seem to be expensive and have limited hours.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Credit cards and ATMs are everywhere and I've never had a problem with fraud in the three years I've been here.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Ummmm, not sure. I know they are there though.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
None. English seems to be the lingua Franca since so much of the population comes from abroad. I was actually hoping to improve my Arabic, but I couldn't find many to practice with.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Yes. While efforts have been made to put cut outs into sidewalks and ramps in public buildings, the results are inconsistent.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Taxis are cheap, and the bus is cheaper though the routes are poorly laid out.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Everyone who is anyone has a huge SUV (or a Ferrari, or both) If you want to feel safe on the road, I suggest at least a small SUV. Gas is very inexpensive and having a 4 wheel drive opens up a lot of opportunities for desert driving. There are most types of car repair services here and very reasonably priced.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Definitely. Bring your Apple TV!!! If you want Netflix or similar you'll have to use a VPN (blocked here) cost is comparable to DC.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
The embassy uses the national svc Etisalat, a 4G provider. Du is another state owned provider and the "competition" is a joke. Pick one and move on. You'll need a passport and/or an emirates ID to get service though.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
Pets don't need to be quarantined on arrival and there are many good vets in the area. Importing and exporting pets can be complicated, however, and I recommend googling UAE pet importers to find someone to help you. Pets can only enter the country as cargo and there are other legal hurdles. The expense of professional help is worth it, especially when you arrive hot, exhausted and disoriented.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
No. There is no U.S. work agreement, so most spouses find work either at schools or at the Embassy.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Tons, you can do a lot of good here for kids, animals, poorer workers, environmental causes....
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Work: business. In public: you see everything, but it is a Muslim society so no minis, tank tops, etc if you want to show respect.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
There are occasional notices of extremists threats, but the most pressing pressing security concern is the very agressive drivers. They are crazy dangerous, particularly between Dubai and Abu Dhabi. My blood pressure would soar whenever I made that trip until I learned to just avoid the left lane. There is very limited theft and street violence due to stringent deportation laws. However, if one crosses an Emirati, one should be prepared to take the blame, be it a car accident or accusations of insulting behavior. The stories of arrest for flipping the bird or insulting the government are true.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Medical care quality can be quite good, or real crap. There are so many nationalities practicing here that I've run into the gamut: Doctors have told me that underwire bras cut off circulation and the change in temperature causes colds, while some have been great with good asthma advice and fantastic dental care. Get recommendations and ask questions. Some of these people are nutters and some really know their stuff.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Air quality can be iffy with the sand storms, but my occasionally asthmatic son has not had too many problems here. It's just extremely humid in summer.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
Dust storms are the worst and always cause respiratory problems for our family. I won't miss those.
5. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Winter between November and February is absolutely lovely. The rest of the year is hot, humid, and dusty. About three days ago the UAE had the hottest temperature on earth. A very dubious honor.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Schools in Abu Dhabi are extremely competitive. There are not enough school slots to go around and the prices reflect that. Some expat families have even been obliged to homeschool because of unconventional arrival times and the lack of schooling opportunities. Most embassy families go to the American Community school (ACS) both because it's a good school and because it's mostly guaranteed for embassy families. Applications for limited spaces in private schools (the only options for expats) are accepted early in the year, often before assignments are finalized. Hopefully they will be able to resolve the school problem soon.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
Not many. There is a therapy center-- stars for special abilities-- which has a caring staff of OT, reading, special education, etc therapists who are very good with English and use modern therapies. It's the only game in town, however, so appointments are limited. For other needs like speech pathology, child psychologists/psychiatrists the American center for psychology and neurology used to be the only option (good therapists, horrible mgmt) but there are now more options for some services (speech therapy). If you are looking for true accommodation, I don't know where you'll find it though.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Nurseries in Abu Dhabii are plentiful and mostly good quality, though it's almost impossible to reserve a space before arrival. Most preschools require a tour before they will accept an application. The schools accept ages 0 to 4. Regular school in Abu Dhabi starts with KG1, a pre kindergarten grade. Nurseries will not accept children after they are 4 (though they won't boot them if they turn four during the academic year) and that leaves embassy parents on the hook to pay for much higher "big school" prices if they want their kids to go to school. On average, KG1 is about US$10k a year, plus bus fees.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Tons. There are any number of programs at the Zayid sports center, the Club has a lot, ACS supports all level is sporting activities. All is available for a price!!!
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Huge and varied. Like anywhere, it is what you make it.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
In winter: camping, hiking, biking, various and numerous festivals and expos. In summer: sweat.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Yes, except for single women. Dating options for women are limited, but tor families and couples there are lots of activities.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Homosexuality is illegal in Islam, but that doesn't stop nature so I'm sure there are lots of under the radar options.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Yes! If you are Asian or African, you will face discrimination. After that, the next rung up seems to be other Arab, then European, the the tippy top is Gulf Arab with Emirati at the apex.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
We visited Omani turtle reserves and saw turtle hatchlings make their way to the sea, camped in the Liwa desert and rolled down huge sand dunes, sat on a catamaran and sailed across the Arabian gulf accompanied by dolphins, went up the tallest building in the world... Like I said, lots to do!
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Oman turtle reserve, desert trips, camel beauty shows, crazy boozy brunches, amazing Christmas displays at the posh hotels, desert astronomy adventures, the (British) Club, meetup groups, bonfires at kite beach...
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Hmmmm. Not much is made here, although they do import some nice Asian furniture and Persian carpets. Local crafts are palm frond baskets and rustic pottery.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
The UAE has all the "amenities" of the U.S. and more. The culture here is not Arab, but a mix of Arab, Western, various Indian, South East Asian, Philippines, etc. The UAE is only 20% (generously) Emirati with the rest being expats. Everything is available, though all is imported. You can even buy a Chritmas tree from Canada! There are lots of things for families, singles, couples to do at all times of the year-- with the exception of summer when the wealthier expats clear out. All this comes with the caveat that you have to PAY for your fun. The UAE is not cheap.
10. Can you save money?
No.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
I moved here from Bahrain so I thought I knew what I was getting into. The UAE is even more materialistic and has less indigenous culture than Bahrain. I wish I had known how very expensive it is and what a marked entitlement culture exists. There are two classes catered to: the rich expat who seems to expect a wide array of luxury hotels, apartments, shopping, and cars, or the very poor expat (usually Pakistani/Indian) who are crowded into tiny apartments (soon to be crowded out by luxury developments) and have very limited disposable income. The inequalities are pronounced and after living here for a while, I'm uncomfortable with the effect it's had on me and my family. Maybe a heavier answer than desired, but be mindful while enjoying your Filipina nanny, Bangladeshi car wash boy, and Indian gardener.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Probably not.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Hopes of saving money, learning Arabic, and making life long Emirati friends.
4. But don't forget your:
Telescope for clear desert skies, camping gear, and breathable summer clothes!
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
6. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0307378233/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=0307378233&linkCode=as2&tag=thesunspousunder&linkId=ALNCRKFZRXZDUROA
It's about an expat in Dubai, but you will find it funny after you've been here a while.
7. Do you have any other comments?
The UAE is a young country, only 40-ish years old, and still developing its processes and policies. I keep trying to remember that when the place and attitudes tick me off. Many of the allegiances are familial and/or tribal and you never quite know what to expect between one Emirate and its neighbor. Just wait till you try to sell a car while in Abu Dhabi to someone in Dubai. Seems like neither Emirate got the memo hat they are the same country. Patience is key, and I lost all mine while living in Bahrain.
