Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates Report of what it's like to live there - 05/19/13
Personal Experiences from Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Previous diplomatic service and professional experience over 25 years in Japan, Western Europe, and elswhere in the Middle East.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
East Coast of the U.S., now accessible by nonstops by both of the UAE's national carriers, as well as United to/from Dubai.
3. How long have you lived here?
Four years, from 2009.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic service, sixth tour overseas.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
For the U.S. Embassy, a mix of villas and apartments, mostly fairly central. Commutes probably average ten to twenty minutes. A few years ago the embassy acquired some units out in a new suburb. Those poor folks are half an hour away, not only from the Embassy, but from all services and shopping. It really stuck out in the desert. Most units have some kind of chronic maintenance issues, but that's pretty much the norm here. Construction standards are low, and new units are often no better than old ones.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
You can find almost anything, but you may have to look. The price range is surprising, with some chains (Lulu and the Coop) significantly less expensive than others, such as Spinney's. The market is growing, with several new chains coming in, including Spar on the reasonable side and Waitrose on the upper end. It can be hard to find good cleaning supplies, as many have heavy perfumes or are quite harsh.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Cleaning supplies, cotton underwear, vanilla essence (you can't get the real thing because of the alcohol base).
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
There is a wide range of choices, but most places lack consistency. A meal can be great one time and disgusting the next week. And prices can be daunting. There is good cheap Middle Eastern and some okay reasonable Asian choices, but a dinner with a drink or two at a hotel can easily run to $125 a couple or more. Fast food is everywhere, both familiar Western brands and some local/regional ones.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Ants, ants, ants, in several different seasonal waves. Our dog has had ticks nonstop as well, only partially put off by standard treatments like Front Line. They say that while they are getting to be more common in the city, they aren't currently known to harbor any chronic illnesses like Lyme Disease.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
We rely on diplomatic mail. There are no street addresses, so you use either your own or your employer's PO box for snail mail.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Officially, you have to full-time sponsor an expatriate housemaid, which can be pricy to set up and is kind of luck-of-the-draw if you just take a maid from an agency. While it is technically illegal, many people have part-time help, with the maid/gardener/nanny already in country, usually on a visa provided by an Emirati citizen. It's possible to get cheap help, but you get what you pay for. We have a half-time housekeeper whom we trust totally (including dog-sitting) and frankly overpay at over $500 a month. But for us it's worth the peace of mind.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Yes. Most hotels offer gym/pool memberships, and there are standalone gyms as well. It can be expensive, especially for single men, but there are big discounts for couples/families and some for single women. But men on their own pay a premium.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
ATMs are common, and credit cards (including international cards) are widely accepted. It's wise to observe good basic cautions, though, as one hears a lot about ATM skimming and other kinds of petty fraud.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
There are churches, but there may not be one specifically for some of the smaller denominations. There is good information online about churches, with service hours, both on Fridays, the standard day, and Sundays.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Abu Dhabi's English-language paper, The National, tries to be as good a paper as it can be, given all the local censorship and limitations on things like political reporting. There are various satellite and TV packages available, all with a focus on English (U.S./UK) content. Other magazines and newspapers are widely available, but imported ones can be expensive ($15 for a monthly like Vanity Fair is standard), and sometimes things are censored or issues just never appear.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Emiratis are a small minority (15% maybe?), and it's actually hard to practice Arabic here. English is as close to a shared language as there is (more people probably speak Urdu than anything else). That said, Arabic-speakers really like it if you try even a few words.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
It would be hard to have a physical disability here. While most new buildings have made at least some attempts at accessibility, they're very inconsistent. Sidewalks are far from common and are usually uneven.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Public transport in Abu Dhabi is pretty limited. No local trains/metro, and not enough bus routes (or actual buses). Taxis are generally safe and fairly cheap, but be sure to use your seat belts, as the drivers can be hair-raising. There's a fairly good and cheap intercity bus system, once you figure out how to use it.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Check carefully on restrictions on importing vehicles, as the rules seem to shift a lot. The roads are dominated by huge SUVs and expensive sports cars. I've never seen so many Rolls Royces and Lamborghinis. It can be intimidating to drive a small, lower-end car. Locals prefer highly-tinted windows, but expats can only tint up to (I think) 30%. Unless you want to do desert driving, there is no reason except status-seeking or perceived safety to have a huge car, as roads are generally good.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Through the state provider only. Speed can be an issue. Costs vary depending on the package you chose, but can be reasonable. Around $40 a month, I think.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
They're everywhere. You'll have to have one, and you can find endless places to buy them at the malls.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No, but the rules about importing an animal are complicated and require some expertise. We worked with a local vet, both to import and now to export ours.
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
While Emiratis (and many Muslims) don't like dogs, we haven't had many problems in public with ours. There are a couple of international-quality vet clinics (German, British, and American), and I've heard about a new "five-star" kennel. Supplies of specific medicines can be inconsistent, so we try to keep stocked up on basics for our dog.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Expats do pretty much everything, but the current focus on "Emiratization" increasingly means that the best jobs are reserved for UAE citizens. Expat spouses can have a difficult time finding employment unless they're teachers or willing to freelance (semi-illegally) in some way.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Abu Dhabi can be a dressy place: business suits for professional men and comparable for women, with an accent on modesty. There's lots of public griping by Emiratis about "indecent" Western dress, but it can be hard to find suitable clothes for men or women in local shops. But you will find lots of miniskirts, bikinis, and muscle clothes - it's just not clear where you're supposed wear them. Malls supposedly have dress codes that include "no bare shoulders" and "no short shorts", but they don't consistenly enforce them.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
While the city is very safe, driving is simply terrible. Emiratis, especially young men, drive like maniacs, and in general it's an unusual day that I don't have at least one terrifying moment during my half-hour commute. I've lived in Cairo and Lagos and prefer the driving there.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Medical care is iffy at best. After 8 years in the region, if I had any serious medical issue, I would get out as soon as possible. Most doctors might be okay, but the system depends on overworked and underpaid nurses and technicians. You hear horror stories about misdiagnosed illnesses, surgical complications, and other problems that come from cutting corners and sloppy practices. In theory, the arrival of international players like Cleveland Clinic should improve things, but until then...
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Generally dusty, even in the best weather. I think the real problems come not from the air outside but from the universal reliance on air-conditioning and the increasing prevalence of sealed buildings that never allow access to fresh air. We had terrible air-conditioning-related mold problems and resulting breathing problems throughout our tour.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Hellishly hot, long summers -- like nowhere else I've been. Central Africa is pleasanter. Unbelievable humidity from April through November; don't plan to be outdoors much. Although, to be fair, the cooler weather has lasted far longer than usual in 2013. November through March is pleasant, even a little chilly some nights, and usually less humid.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
We don't have kids, but I hear good things about the American Community School and the GEMS schools.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
From what I hear, a little at ACS and GEMS, almost none elsewhere.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Some are listed in the free weeklies, but it would have to be seasonal and/or indoor.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Vast - like 90% of the population. But most are short-term workers. There are many fewer management/professional expats, but still it's a large and diverse community.
2. Morale among expats:
Varies widely - some people have been here for decades and love it; others find the combination of social/political restrictions and the climate unbearable.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
We've done less home entertaining here than anywhere else we've lived. Emiratis often don't like to visit expat homes for fear of alcohol, pork, and dogs. There are lots of going-out options, including various special promotions -- women frequently drink free, for example.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Abu Dhabi is a surprisingly dull place. Aside from one-off attractions like Ferrari World and a new water park, there's not much beyond shopping malls. Movie theaters are basically just places where local teenagers come to talk, and many movies are censored. And only the big action and kids' films get here in the first place. There are occasional pop concerts, but not much else. Some day there will be museums, a performing arts center, etc., but that's years off, and until then it's either seasonal things like the annual film festival or classical concert series, or nothing.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
There's more of an underground culture than outsiders might be aware of (including a nightclub), but it's pretty much just Arab expats with a few Westerners, all mostly pretty young. There is not much for older couples or women.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Yes, racism is a huge issue, with the system reinforcing prejudices that pit locals against all foreigners, and wealthier people against poorer people. You will find lots and lots of bias against the often-put-upon workers who do all the heavy lifting that keeps the place running. Colleagues regularly report instances of color-based discrimination and gender prejudice.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
On a daily basis, climate and traffic aside, Abu Dhabi is a pretty comfortable place to live. Supermarkets are generally well stocked, it's possible to find good quality on most things if you're willing to look hard, and we've enjoyed the cooler winters.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
There are some nice beaches, although fewer and fewer free ones. And at public beaches, some people may not feel comfortable in Western swimwear, which attracts either lecherous or disapproving stares. And for five months of the year it is just too hot. There is lots of shopping. Dubai is a regular getaway for many, although that mostly means just more shopping and hotels. The city of Al Ain, in the interior, is an interesting place and a nice weekend destination. And it can be fun to explore the smaller emirates.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
There are almost no real local crafts. Most items that look like that are imported from Oman or India or China. There are some good deals on Persian carpets if you know where to look.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
The Emirates are what you make of it, and those coming with fewer expectations will be happier than those who take the shiny surface of things at face value. While the UAE is pretty short on anything authentic (the whole place has been more or less invented in the last 40 years), it is a fast (though often not cheap) hop to Asia, Turkey, Africa, and more.
11. Can you save money?
It's possible, but Abu Dhabi can be a very expensive place to live, and as one major sanity-keeper is travel, it's easy to lose track of spending.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
No. I find the local culture to be pretty oppressive, the weather horrible, and the quality of just about everything to be weird. It's not nice to be in a place where everyone )except the few local nationals) is expendable, where everything depends on cheap, imported labor, and where status symbols and conspicuous consumption are what people seem to care about.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Expectations of consistent good service, winter clothes (except for travel outside the region), anticipation of an authentic Arabian cultural experience...
3. But don't forget your:
sunscreen, patience, and an exit strategy.
4. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
"Sex and the City 2" was supposed to be set in Abu Dhabi, but not a minute of it was filmed here, and it's kind of a local joke that the movie was all about how beautiful and traditional the place is.
5. Do you have any other comments?
A lot of this may sound negative. In fairness, I know a lot of people who love the expat life here. It's just not for everyone.
