Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates Report of what it's like to live there - 11/07/10
Personal Experiences from Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No. London (UK), Harare, Calgary (Canada)
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
New York
3. How long have you lived here?
2 years
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
US Government
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Housing is EXPENSIVE. Most Embassy staff without children live in apartments in the downtown area close to the Corniche. Some families with kids live in villas downtown as well but most live in villas close to the Embassy. The housing here (both apartments and villas) tends to be large, spacious and well equipped. People compete for the best housing on principle only because all housing is very comfortable. Newer housing appears great on the surface, but the workmanship is pretty shoddy and requires lots of maintenance until all the kinks are sorted out. From downtown to the Embassy is about a 20 minute drive.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
The cost of groceries is on par with Washington, DC.The great thing about being here is that you can find goodies from all over the world since Abu Dhabi tries to accommodate all the expats. Treats from Australia, the USA, UK, South African, and Asia are easily available. It's actually better stocked than the US.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Vanilla extract. The vanilla sold in stores here does not contain alcohol and doesn't do your baking any good. Special baking products, good quality scented candles, craft supplies, books are also things I'd ship. If you have certain toiletry brands that you like, bring them too. Although virtually all are available here, sometimes they are unnecessarily expensive. Clinique is really expensive here; have yet to figure out why. Yet Mac is comparable to the rest of the world. If you are particular about your sheets and towels, bring those with you as well.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
ALL fast food is available here at prices comparable to the USA.Abu Dhabi has good restaurants with food very well prepared. The restaurants range in price with some being quite expensive. All hotels do elaborate brunches on Fridays... it's a local tradition.
5. What kinds of organic, vegetarian and allergy-friendly foods are available, such as organic produce, gluten-free products, meat substitutes for vegetarians, etc?
Stores like Abela and Spinneys stock a small supply of "special diets" foods, but people on special dietary needs would probably struggle here.
6. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
I had occasional ant invasions, but otherwise nothing. I think it was too hot for any self respecting insect to want to be there.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
I use the Embassy's APO/DPO.There are no actual street addresses and I have never seen a mail delivery person. There are post offices but I have never been inside one here. Aramex is a local courier service thatgives you a UK and US address so that you can shop online and have things delivered to you in the UAE. Aramex charges you for the delivery. FEDEX, UPS, DHL and local service Empost are other couriers available in country.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
This is a complex issue. If you do everything by the book, it can be expensive. Although locals often flout the regulations, it is recommended that as a foreigner you abide by the rules. All domestic employees must be "sponsored". The annual cost for that is about US$3,000.There is no set salary for domestic help. I pay my full time live-in US$500/mo as well as providing her with food, accommodation, and toiletries. However, I knew of local families who overworked their employees and did not pay them less than US$100/mo (assuming they even paid them regularly). If you are non-Arab, domestic employees will seek you out. Many need a lot of supervision to get to the point that you can rely on them to look after your home/children the way that you like. Language is often a barrier as many do not speak English or Arabic.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Yes, they range in quality but they are everywhere. Membership is usually per annum so be prepared to shell out about US$ 1,500 to join.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Credit cards are accepted almost everywhere. ATMS are safe and widely available. It is still advisable to check your bank statement every month to look for any inconsistencies.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Yes, almost all churches have some kind of facility here (including LDS and Jehovah's Witnesses).
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Yes, Abu Dhabi has a decent daily paper called "the National" and then there are other less high-brow ones (Gulf News and Khlaleej Times).7-Days is always good for a laugh as well.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Little. Being able to exchange pleasantries in Arabic is always appreciated. Knowing Urdu would be much more helpful. Most business and government workers speak English.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
A lot. The curbs are very high (to prevent cars parking on them).Sidewalks are few and far between. Domestic labor is fairly reasonable so one could always hire a full time carer to alleviate some of the problems.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Yes, all are safe and affordable. People use taxis a lot. The buses are very cheap but extremely underutilized as people prefer their own cars.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Emiratis love their cars. I've never seen so many Ferraris, Bentleys, and Maseratis in my life.4x4s are very popular as people like to go out to the desert for off-roading adventures. The roads here are excellent, so pretty much any car will do. The government will not let you import cars over 5 years old, but with so many cars on the market, you can always buy a car in country.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, but the speeds are not impressive for the amount of money you pay. My Etisalat service is about US$90/mo but it constantly crashes or is really slow. Faster packages are now on offer, but I have not seen any improvement.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Emiratis love their gadgets, especially their cell phones and must always have the latest and greatest. Handsets can be bought everywhere. Carrefour and Plug-Ins usually have the most competitive prices. All phones are unlocked. There are only two service providers: Etisalat and Du. You can buy prepaid cards from either or you can sign a contract. It is cheaper than the US because virtually all business is done via cell phone.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
I've heard it is decent, but I don't know.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Yes. There is a huge skills shortage here. It's a young country and the local capacity does not yet meet the demand. If you are aWesterner, you can do very well here. Salaries are based on nationality. Locals earn the most, followed by fellow Gulf Arabs, then Westerners, other Arabs, Africans and Asians (in that order).
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Business casual. It is a conservative country, but non-locals tend to ignore that. As a woman, I've found that slacks are always a good option as are knee length skirts (or longer if you prefer).Bare arms for women are not a good idea, but nobody will say anything. The more skin you show, the more unsolicited stares you will receive, especially from the low skilled workers; do it at your own risk.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Petty crimes are on the increase, but not enough to be concerned about. Teenagers have no real outlets so tend to walk around in mini-gangs trying to start something.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Diagnostic medical care is good, but if you need serious medical attention (like major surgery), for your own peace of mind, it's best to go to Europe,North America, or South Africa.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
It's not very good when a dust storm kicks up, but it is tolerable. I have asthma but never had any problems with the dust. When the seasons change, my allergies get really bad though.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
From October to March it is GORGEOUS. The midday temperature is usually around 80 degrees. From April - September however, watch out. It is crazy hot and impossible to go outside. I hate air conditioning but am forced to keep it cranked high 24 hours a day during these months. Temperatures can easily top 120 degrees.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Most American Embassy kids go to the American Community School which has both an elementary school and a high school. Standards at the ACS are not what they once were and the GEMS academies (for elementary school) are giving ACS a run for its money. Choueifat is another option for high school, but I don't know how good it is. There are also non-English schools (German, French... and of course, Arabic).
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
From what I hear, what is available is mediocre at best. If parents are willing to make the effort, kids should be ok.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
ACS has a preschool facility. There are also a number of Montessori schools that people have been pretty happy with.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Usually through the schools, but there isn't really much out there that I know of. Marina Mall has an ice skating rink that is very popular with kids. All malls have a kids amusement center. It is a very family friendly city.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Huge. Expats make up 80% of the population. In reality, most are low income laborers and domestic workers. The actual Emirati population is tiny.
2. Morale among expats:
Mixed. I love it, but like with many other people, the conspicuous consumption and local arrogance wears me down. Getting out of the Middle East on vacation usually takes care of that. The driving here is APPALLING and traffic accidents are the leading cause of death locally. Expats always complain about the traffic and the blatant flouting of traffic regulations.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Absolutely. The restaurants and cafes are great.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Yes, for everybody. Single people do have to make more of an effort to make friends, but once you do, the relationships can be quite strong. This is a fantastic city for people with young children. Teenagers quickly get bored here as there is not much on offer for them.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
There is a gay community here, but it is kept very low key because homosexuality goes against what is culturally acceptable. Most gay people find Dubai more friendly, but even there it is not advisable to flaunt it.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Yes. Your nationality determines how you will be treated here. South Asians are treated horribly. Many Westerners of Indian or Pakistani descent have had an unpleasant time here. Emiratis have no issues with African-Americans but African-Americans sometimes face discrimination from Filipino workers and/or other Western expats. Black Africans are not treated badly by the Emiratis, but are ranked lower than Westerners. Female friends of Asian origin (Korean, Chinese and Filipino) have often received unwanted sexual advances from men who assume they are prostitutes.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
I have loved getting to know other expats. The long leisurely brunches/lunches on Fridays and the countless coffee shops and cafes that the city has to offer are fabulous. The restaurants here are really good and when you tire of those a quick drive to Dubai will perk you right up . I love the leisurely pace especially on weekends.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Shopping, eating, and more shopping. Quad bike riding in the desert is fun as well. Trips to Dubai for more shopping and eating are also fun. Visits to the Emirates Palace and the Sheikh Zayed Mosque are a must.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Nothing is actually made here. You can however get bespoke jewelry at lower prices than you would in the West.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
This is definitely not a hardship post. Life is quite comfortable if you have a good salary package that includes housing.
11. Can you save money?
NO! I suppose if you never eat out or go shopping, you can save a little bit, but chances are you will travel and all savings will vanish.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Absolutely, in a heartbeat! I live well and have lots of friends. What's not to like?
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Any notion that people respect the rules of the road; the roads are great, but the drivers are terrible. Preconceived notions of the Middle East with women's faces fully covered... this is not Afghanistan or Saudi Arabia. Winter coats, but bring light sweaters and shawls for the frigid air conditioning. Forget any preconceived notions that this is some sort of backward country. The physical infrastructure is very impressive. Abu Dhabi is a rather pretty, but artificially manicured, city.
3. But don't forget your:
A whole lot of patience as well as sunscreen, vanilla extract, craft supplies, books, and sporting equipment.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Girls of Riyadh. It isn't about the UAE, but gives an idea of the interaction between local men & women.
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
Don't watch Sex & the City 2; it does not reflect the reality of Abu Dhabi at all.
6. Do you have any other comments?
From the day I arrived, it has been one big adventure here. I think you have to be very open minded to enjoy your time here and be willing to make your own fun. The locals are quite insular so you have to make the effort to befriend them.
