Chiang Mai, Thailand Report of what it's like to live there - 05/12/07
Personal Experiences from Chiang Mai, Thailand
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No--lived in another city in Asia, Central America, and Africa.
2. How long have you lived here?
3 years.
3. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
U.S. Government.
4. Travel time and best routes to this city from Europe or the US:
Thai Airways flies direct from Bangkok to New York or Los Angeles (about 17 hours in either direction).
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Houses are big and cheap. Most are rented furnished. It can be hard to find a house in the center of town, and they tend to be less modern (including some old traditional, wooden, Thai-style homes) and more expensive. A suburban housing boom in the past five years has resulted in a tremendous number of new neighborhoods (gated communities) featuring modern, western style (but not western quality) homes with yards. It is possible to find a nice house for less than US$500 per month, a very nice house for less than US$1,000, and an extremely nice house for less than US$1,500.A commute of 30 minutes is considered long.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
If you shop in the local markets, food is cheap. A household of 4 can buy groceries for US$40 per week. If you shop in a western-style supermarket (e.g. Rimping, Tops, Carrefour), you can expect to spend nearly as much as you would in the U.S. Certain things are cheaper--meat and vegetables--but imported items are more expensive. You can find most anything, even gourmet items, easily.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
There's not much you can't buy in Chiang Mai or Bangkok.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Chiang Mai has thousands of restaurants, including at least one from most culinary regions. Prices are low. If you want to eat cheap (but delicious) Thai street food, it's cheaper to eat out for every meal than to prepare your own food. Western fast food is widely available too: McDonald's, KFC, Subway, Dunkin Donuts, Dairy Queen, Pizza Hut, Starbucks, etc.
Daily Life:
1. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Domestic help is widely available. Salaries among expatriates range from US$150 to US$300 per month. Thais pay their staff less and work them more.
2. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
I use credit cards and ATMs without worry. In three years, I haven't had a problem. Some official Americans prefer to get cash from the U.S. Consulate.
3. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Christian: Catholic, various evangelical churches although I'm not sure if they are affiliated with specific protestant sectsI think there are other options too--Bahai, Jehovah's Witness, Church of Latter Day Saints, etc.--but I'm not sure. Not sure if there's a Jewish, Buddhist, or Muslim temple/mosque that offers English-language services.
4. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
There are at least two cable providers with English-language channels. The Bangkok Post is an English-language newspaper. In Chiang Mai, there are a number of English-language weekly and monthly publications, although they contain mostly adds, human interest stories, and community news.
5. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Knowing Thai is helpful (more so in Chiang Mai than Bangkok) but not necessary. If you can count and say
6. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Chiang Mai would be a real challenge to navigate for someone with a disability. Sidewalks, where they exist, are peppered with holes, cracks and street dogs. Most buildings are not wheelchair accessible.
Transportation:
1. Do you drive on the right hand side of the road or the left?
Left side of the road
2. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
A new taxi service was established in town 2 years ago. The taxis are clean and safe, and have seatbelts. You must call the dispatcher to request one. They are affordable but not cheap. Train travel is rare, although a train does run between Chiang Mai and Bangkok. Converted pick-up trucks (songtaews) travel all major roads and provide cheap, convenient taxi service to the local population and budget-minded tourists.
3. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
It is preferable to buy a right-hand drive car in the region. Driving can be a hair-raising experience, and driving from the
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
High speed internet is available from many providers are a reasonable cost.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
It seems that everyone in Chiang Mai has a cell phone, from the businessman to the person mowing your lawn. Cell phones are available everywhere and in every price range. You can buy minutes at any convenience store or sign up for monthly service.
3. What is the best way to make phone calls back home?
If you live in Chiang Mai, sign up for Vonage or Skype and make phone calls through the internet. If you're visiting, there are numerous small businesses downtown that offer pay-by-the-hour internet service and long-distance phone service. Or use your cell phone!
Pets:
1. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Vet services are abundant and very cheap. I know of only one kennel. Thai-produced pet food is of poor quality. Imported pet food is available but expensive.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
No. Teachers can probably find jobs at one of the international schools, but the pay is very low. Spouses of U.S. Government employees are technically banned from getting a work permit (although there are ways around this). Well-paying, professional-level employment is nearly nonexistent.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
A suit is a rare sight. Thais dress neatly and modestly at work and in public.
Health & Safety:
1. Pollution index (Good, Moderate, Unhealthy, or Very Unhealthy)?
In the months of March and April, the pollution index is very unhealty. Slash and burn agriculture at the regional level and trash burning at the household level can make living in the valley of Chiang Mai feel like a trip to the airport smoking room. This year (2007) was particularly bad with PM10 readings many times the healthy limit.(See http://www.pcd.go.th/AirQuality/Regional/Default.cfm for daily readings.). Some expatriate families with the means to travel chose to escape to the beaches in the south or even Bangkok (not usually known for its fresh air). Exercising outside during this period is downright dangerous. Fortunately, the air quality is significantly better during the rest of the year.
2. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Chiang Mai feels very safe. I do know a number of people whose houses have been robbed, but by petty thieves rather than hardened criminals. Weapons were never involved. The Thai culture is not a violent one. Pickpocketing is uncommon. Carjacking is unheard of.
3. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
No major health concerns. Several local hospitals offer adequate, but not terrific, care. Several hospitals in Bangkok offer world-class care.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Cool in November to January.(You might even want a light sweater in the early AM.) HOT in March, April and May. Rainy from June to September. Somewhat hot the rest of the time.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
There are many international schools from which to choose:Chiang Mai International School (CMIS)--In existence for more than 50 years, CMIS is the original int'l school in Chiang Mai. It is a Christian school but accepts students of all faiths. The 450 students from K-12 represent more than 30 nationalities, although half the students are half Thai or full Thai. The school uses an American curriculum. Facilities are adequate but not impressive. It is located in the center of town. Grace Int'l School (GIS)--Founded just a few years ago, Grace has grown incredibly quickly. Like CMIS it is a Christian school but, unlike CMIS, most of the students are the kids of evangelical missionaries and religion is a major part of the curriculum. The school uses an American curriculum and occupies a large campus south of town. Prem Tinsulandonda Int'l School (Prem)--Prem is the 5-star hotel of int'l schools in Chiang Mai. It offers an IB curriculum and occupies a sprawling campus north of town in the Mae Jo area, including dorms for boarders. Some Prem families worry that the school's fast-pace growth plan is compromising quality and that the school oversells and underdelivers. That said, for families who want a secular education and/or live north of town, it could be a good option.
Other choices: Nakorn Payap Int'l School, Lanna International School, Christian German School, American Pacific Int'l SchoolFor a town this small, Chiang Mai offers a wealth of school choices. Unfortunately, none seems perfect. Most of the U.S. Consulate kids, including mine, go to CMIS.We have been satisfied with the quality of the education, although it less rigorous than our neighborhood public elementary school in the US.I would think twice about bringing high school-age children to Chiang Mai.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
As far as I know, none of the international schools have gifted programs. Some schools claim to offer special help for kids with learning challenges but may or may not have the resources (financial and/or personnel) to follow through. Chiang Mai is not an ideal post for a special-needs kid.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Cheap and reliable daycare is available in the form of a nanny. There are a few English-speaking preschool options including Kiddy Bear (downtown) and American Pacific International School--Lower School (south of town).
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Big for such a small town. The majority are missionaries (probably the bulk of the community), retirees, tourists, business people, and NGO workers. The diplomatic community is very small.
2. Morale among expats:
Depends who you ask. Most people seem to live here by choice, and therefore think that the positives of life in Chiang Mai outweight the negatives.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
There aren't many major cultural events in Chiang Mai, although Bangkok is only an flight away if you want to attend a big concert. We settle for
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Chiang Mai can sometimes feel like a sleepy town. There are options for families (school events, movies, bowling alleys, climbing wall, swimming pools, etc.). Outdoorsy people will enjoy Chiang Mai's location near mountains (hills) and waterfalls. Singles may find Chiang Mai a bit dull, especially compared to the action of Bangkok.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
The average Thai is very accepting of all lifestyle choices. The average expatriate in Chiang Mai might be less accepting, especially considering the overwhelming number of missionaries. That said, I suspect that Chiang Mai is a good city for gay/lesbian expats.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
The Thais can be prejudiced against the Hill Tribe people from the North. It is rare to see a person of African descent in Chiang Mai, and African-Americans residents/tourists might get some stares. Regardless of their private views, most Thais treat everyone with kindness and respect. Most Thais are Buddhist; they are very tolerant of other religions.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Shop, eat, visit temples, go to the movies, trek, camp, etc. Sometimes you have to make your fun, but compared to other places I've lived, there's always something to do.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Furniture, jewelry, silk.
9. Can you save money?
Yes!
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes, but only for two years.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Gowns, impatience.
3. But don't forget your:
Suntan lotion, bugspray, hat, sense of humor.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
6. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
7. Do you have any other comments?
Among expatriates, at least the ones I know, religion has a big impact on social circles and free-time activities. If you eschew organized religion or missionaries, Chiang Mai can be a lonely place. Other groups exist, but they are smaller and less noticable in the social fabric of Chiang Mai.
