Geneva, Switzerland Report of what it's like to live there - 03/26/14
Personal Experiences from Geneva, Switzerland
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
First post overseas.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
8-9 hours direct to DC or Newark.
3. How long have you lived here?
2 years.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
U.S. Government.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
For those with the U.S. Mission, it is an LQA post meaning you must find your own housing. This means everyone is scattered across the area. There is one apartment complex downtown where many singles/couples (and a few families) live. Otherwise most families seem to be scattered randomly across the villages outside of the city from Geneva to the smaller town of Nyon. Family housing is often in duplexes or townhomes as there are not many single family homes. Commutes are easy ranging from 5 to 30 minutes for most. Other non-diplomatic expats often choose to live across the border in France to save money.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
You can find most of what you need. Prices in Switzerland are very high but quality is good. Mexican and Asian cooking supplies and traditional American baking supplies (brown sugar, vanilla, confectioner powder) are minimal though with a lot of shopping/asking around you can usually find it somewhere. Shopping across the border in France can save a lot of money. In general, the French grocery stores have more selection and are cheaper but they are not as pretty and organized as the Swiss grocery stores. In-season produce, milk and dairy products are reasonable in Switzerland. Outdoor markets across Switzerland and France are a fun way to pick up very fresh produce, cheeses, pastas, and meats.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
If I didn't have access to DPO, I would have shipped more diapers, baby wipes, and American-style paper towels. Children's clothes/products are limited and expensive here so those without DPO often buy ahead or stock up when they visit the U.S.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
McDonald's, Burger King...the usual stuff but it's so pricey it's ridiculous. If you go into France you can save some money on fast food though there aren't many options.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Nothing horrible. Ticks can be a problem so if you hike you need to take precautions. Lake Geneva has a problem with duck fleas which can infect those who swim in the lake. Flies are a major nuisance about half of the year for those who live outside the city in the villages/towns surrounded by agriculture. There are no screens on windows so the bugs from the agricultural areas do invade homes in the villages.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
DPO. I've used the Swiss Post several times within country and was amazed at how fast it was.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
It exists but it is costly.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There are a number though I hear they are very expensive. I prefer to run outdoors in the paths through the vineyards or along the lake. There is a gym available at the U.S. Mission.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Credit cards and ATMs are safe to use. There are some situations where you will be stuck if you do not have a chip/pin card (gas stations, toll booths, parking kiosks) so it's often good to have some cash with you as a backup.
5. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Most people speak some English though they won't always use it. Speaking some basic French can go a long way to getting more respect and help.
6. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Public transport is handicap accessible though it can be difficult to find the ramps/elevators. Cobblestone streets can make some portions of the city, and many of the smaller villages, difficult.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Public transport is very safe, easy to use, and can get you most places you need to be within Switzerland. If you live in neighboring France, the connections aren't as great. Trains sometimes have a family car with a playground in the train. Public transport can be expensive though there are ways to lower the cost (half price card, etc) if you use it frequently enough.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
It's Europe so small is best as parking spots are very tight and there are many shockingly narrow roads. On the other hand, if you're big into skiing you'll want something that can get you up into the mountains easily. While winter tires are not technically required by law, you are required to have the appropriate tires on for the weather conditions so most people do swap out tires for winter. They are available locally but are costly.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, it is available although the speed was adequate but not great. Our combined internet/phone/basic cable bill is about US$120/month.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
I went with a pre-paid SIM with Orange and it was extremely cheap and easy. Coverage was fine.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No quarantine. Pet care is good though pricey and decent pet food is very expensive.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
There are some though they are competitive. You'll do best if you speak fluent French.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Geneva is on the border with France and that is definitely reflected in the dress, both at work and in public. People dress well.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Home burglaries are a problem. I have never heard of a violent one but I know many people whose homes were robbed - especially those who live on a road close to the border with France. In the city you must take the usual precautions against pick pocketing. I have never once felt unsafe.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Health care is very good. I have never had doctors spend so much time talking to me before (of course, you/your insurance is billed by every 5 minutes they spend with you). The general philosophy is a more "wait and see" philosophy than in the U.S. so if you are concerned about something, you often need to fight to get additional testing/follow-up.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
For most of the year it is very healthy - the exception being when the farmers fertilize their land and fertilizer and dirt get into everything for several days. If your lungs are ever craving fresh mountain air, it's an easy drive into the mountains (Alps or Jura) for the cleanest air I've ever experienced.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
The stereotypical images of tons of snow in Switzerland is just not true. The weather is surprisingly temperate and I rarely needed my warmest winter coat. There are usually a couple of weeks of cold winter weather and ice but the snow rarely sticks around for more than a couple of days. For real snow you need to drive into the mountains.
The summers are mostly very pleasant with a couple of weeks of intense heat. The hardest part is not having a/c if you are used to it. The houses are built to lock heat in and even nice summer days can get unbearable inside, especially on higher floors. There is very little a/c - even malls and restaurants with a/c are luke-warm at best. Fall and Spring are gorgeous, although there are long bouts of rain and gray that sometimes feel like they will never end. On the other hand there are often long bouts of beautiful sunny days too.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
I do not have personal experience though there are several options and with varying opinions on each.
2. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Both public and private preschools and daycares exist and are very high-quality but waitlists can be VERY long and costs are also VERY high. Those with diplomatic status do not qualify for the subsidies on public daycares so the cost is essentially the same between private and public. If you need daycare immediately upon arrival, I suggest starting your search long before arrival. There are a number of unhappy spouses in the expat community who would like to work but can't justify it based on the cost of daycare. We used a private creche (daycare) and could not have been happier with it but the cost for part-time was much more than our mortgage.
3. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Yes. My only experience is with gymnastics and soccer for the 2+ crowd but every kid I know is involved in something.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Very large - last I heard, Geneva is 45% expat. The morale varies greatly. There are a lot of organizations for English-speaking mothers to connect.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Dining out. Fondue boat cruises. Hiking. Skiing.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Yes, it can be good for all if you're willing to seek out activities and fun.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
I believe so.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
I have never heard of any problems.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Walks along the shores of Lake Geneva and through the surrounding vineyards. Hiking in the Alps. Boat rides on the lake. Travel throughout Italy, France, Austria, Liechtenstein, and Germany. Enjoying cheese...fondue, raclette...and wine that's rarely available in the U.S. Exploring gorgeous, quaint little villages across the region. Learning the local customs/culture through various festivals throughout the year.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Snowshoeing in the Jura's on a full moon night in the winter followed by a fondue dinner on the mountain top. Hiking among the vineyards in the UNESCO Heritage Lavaoux Wine Region along Lake Geneva. Fun fall festivals involving cows wearing cowbells. Taking the various gondolas and cable cars up into the Bernese Oberlands and in the Zermatt region for summer hiking and amazing views.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Fondue pots, cow bells, Swiss wine.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
It's a clean, beautiful, and organized country. The travel possibilities are endless and easy.
10. Can you save money?
No - not if you eat out, travel, ski, or send kids to daycare.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
While it's a lovely place for small children (clean air, lots of outdoor space), this is not a child-friendly society. Kids are often not welcome in stores and restaurants and you'll get dirty looks for bringing them especially if they make any noise (with some exceptions, notably the restaurants associated with grocery stores). Highchairs are hard to find and when you do find them they're in poor condition. There is a surprising lack of indoor play space for kids on those gray, rainy days.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Absolutely. The good far outweighs the bad.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Desire to break rules. This is a rule-abiding society with rules/regulations for everything. Be prepared to be yelled at a lot, often when you don't even know what you're doing wrong.
4. But don't forget your:
Camera - this country is beautiful and you'll want to take lots of photos to make everyone back home jealous.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
6. Do you have any other comments?
I've heard a lot of people refer to Geneva as the city with no soul. I don't think it deserves this title. Yes, the actual city itself is a little small and can easily be seen in a day or two but there is lots to do if you're will to explore and look for it. The real beauty to living here, in my opinion, is everything there is to do outside the city limits. If you like nature and beautiful scenery your options are endless.
