Paramaribo, Suriname Report of what it's like to live there - 02/27/20
Personal Experiences from Paramaribo, Suriname
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Not a first experience.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Travel nearly anywhere is generally lengthy and expensive. Most flights are on Surinam Airways, which is professional and safe, but doesn't have the best on-time track record and doesn't partner with any other airlines, which makes connections difficult. Miami is relatively accessible: it's about a 5-6 hour non-stop or one-stop flight that operates on most days of the week. Copa Airlines recently started flying twice a week to Paramaribo from Panama (and they codeshare with United!) which makes connections to the rest of the region a little easier than before. You can go for a long weekend to Trinidad, Aruba, or Curaçao, but it's expensive. In general, plan a few long vacations, rather than multiple short ones.
3. How long have you lived here?
Nearly two years.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic mission.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Embassy housing consists of suburban homes throughout the city. Commute times to the Embassy vary from 5 minutes from the north part of the city to up to 45 from the south. Houses are generally large, with yards, patios, and barbecues.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
I've been very pleasantly surprised by the availability of groceries here. Choi's and Tulip have pretty much every imported good we could want. For fresh meat, we prefer to go to Rossignol butchers, and for fruits and veggies we go to local markets. Suriname has some of the most amazing tropical fruit. I love being able to stop for fresh coconuts, papaya, mangoes and pineapple on the way home from work.
The cost for locally grown items is extremely cheap. Imported goods are reasonable, but it's generally much cheaper if you're willing to buy Dutch brands over American brands.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Most things are available here, and for the rest there's Amazon.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
There are several nice restaurants, considering this is a really small town. Indian, Indonesian, Chinese, and Thai food are all popular. Choices range from a quick $4 bite to eat to a $50 three course meal with wine. Some places deliver, like pizza, but wait times can be long, so I prefer to order ahead and pick up on the way home.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
There are many bugs. The weather can be really nice and cool in the evenings, but we unfortunately keep the windows closed at night due to mosquitoes, which can carry dengue and several other diseases. Spiders, ants, geckos and little frogs appear in the house pretty frequently. We're glad to have a housekeeper who helps keep them away.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
DPO takes about two weeks.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
We have a wonderful English-speaking housekeeper. Cost is about USD 5/hour.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
The Embassy has a very nice gym and pool. There are tons of local gyms that offer classes like CrossFit or yoga at very cheap rates. They'll usually teach in English if they know you don't speak Dutch.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
This is a cash economy. USD is currently accepted at favorable rates at many locations. I do not recommend using local ATMs due to the risk of muggings. We get cash from the Embassy. You can use credit cards only in a very limited number of places, like a few fancy restaurants, hotels, and one grocery store.
5. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Most people in Paramaribo speak English. You can generally get around fine in stores and restaurants with just English. That being said, not everyone's English level is high enough for complicated situations. We've had experiences with mechanics, law enforcement, and medical staff where knowing Dutch was extremely helpful.
6. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
There are no sidewalks. Roads are not very well-maintained. Most buildings are probably not very accessible.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
You need a car here. There are a few reputable taxi companies we use, but you generally need to reserve in advance and it's not particularly cheap. There's an app you can use to call a taxi on short notice (sort of like a local version of Uber) but I wouldn't want to rely on that on a daily basis, since drivers are not always reliable or available depending on time of day or weather conditions.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
We bought an SUV locally, but many people seem to get around just fine in the city in small cars. The roads in the city flood pretty severely maybe five to ten times per year, which is when I'm really happy to have high clearance. There are lots of speed bumps. Japanese brands are popular and most cars are used Japanese imports.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Internet was already installed for us when we arrived. It costs about $50/month. It's not the fastest, but it's enough to stream Netflix and make video calls, so I'm happy enough.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Some people use their U.S. GoogleFi here and it works fine. I have a local provider with data plan for about $20/month. It was super easy to set up on arrival.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
There's a very nice vet here, and we've been pleased with veterinary care so far. I think resources are limited though, so complicated issues might not be easy to treat. Travel was ok - you need to be strategic about flight routes if bringing a pet. Don't go via Caribbean Airlines due to the difficulty of transiting pets in Trinidad. We went with Surinam Airways direct from Miami which was fine, but nearly all pets - even small ones that go under the seat on every other airline - must go in the baggage hold. Now that Copa Airlines flies here, some people have been successful in bringing pets in cabin with them, so that seems like an improvement. No quarantine was required, but work with the Embassy several weeks prior to arrival so you can be sure to have all the paperwork in order.
Be very, very careful if letting pets outdoors. This is not a country with a pet culture, and there are recent cases of neighbors poisoning or killing pets. There are also venomous frogs and snakes. There are many stray dogs on the streets. Keep your pets indoors where they'll be safe, or keep a close eye on them when they're outside.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Most EFMs who want to work seem to have been able to do so. There are usually more EFM job vacancies than there are applicants.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
In the Embassy, the dress code is fairly formal. Outside, dress for the tropics.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Crime has been steadily increasing over the past few years. Robberies are the most common issue. We have 24-hour guards at all our homes, so we still feel safe here. Don't walk around at night, keep your car doors locked, be aware of your surroundings. While the security situation is deteriorating here, I still have the feeling that it's safer than many regional cities, and it hasn't prevented us from really getting out and enjoying the city.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Local medical care is extremely limited. Pharmacies sometimes run out of very common medicines and if a specialist you need is out of the country on vacation, you might be out of luck. The Embassy has a wonderful nurse and doctor on staff that provide excellent primary care. Medevacs to Miami are common for even basic issues.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
I love the blue skies, sunny days and sunsets we have here almost every day. A few times a year burning trash or fields negatively affects air quality.
4. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
This post can be very isolating. It's hard to travel to and from here, and the city can be pretty quiet if you don't make your own fun.
5. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Tropical rainforest. Hot and humid year round. Some months are drier than others but it can rain at any time.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
There's a small but rather tight-knit expat community. If you get out regularly to events, you'll start running into the same people over and over. Morale varies greatly. Some people love it and some people are counting the days to leave.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Events in the diplomatic community have been a great way for us to meet people. National days, film festivals, movie nights.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
It seems to be pretty good for couples. I think the schools have been hit or miss for some families. It could be isolating as a single person unless you really make an effort to make friends.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
This is a surprisingly open and welcoming place for LGBT people. There's a large Pride festival in October, during which you'll find rainbow flags all over the city. While discrimination and other problems certainly exist in Suriname, LGBT diplomats can generally expect a warm welcome. There isn't much gay nightlife to speak of, but there's a small local LGBT community where everyone knows each other. There have been several gay and lesbian couples at post over the past few years.
5. Is it easy to make friends with locals here? Are there any prejudices or any ethnic groups who might feel uncomfortable here?
The Surinamese are extremely friendly and laid back. We've made friends here, and it's made our time here much more fun. Suriname is a very diverse society, and they're proud of how many people from different ethnic, religious, and national backgrounds get along here.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Seeing monkeys and sloths in their natural habitat. Spending the day at old plantations that have been converted into nice resorts with walking paths and bike trails. Day trips to French Guiana for great French food. Making local and diplomatic friends and entertaining at home.
While travel is fairly difficult, with some effort and planning you can make it happen. Brazil and the Caribbean are relatively accessible. Being relatively close to the U.S. has also been nice for us here.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Dolphin spotting on the river. Monkey spotting at Peperpot Plantation. Sunday morning markets around town. Going out to eat.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Not really. It seems to be easier to save money than shop here.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Slow pace of life. Good work life balance. Friendly people. Good availability of restaurants and groceries. Cheap and high quality household help. Tropical sunny weather year round. Spending weekends by the pool or spending hours reading in a swaying hammock.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
There's very little walkable space. Paramaribo looks pretty run down and the infrastructure is lacking upkeep in most areas. It's tropical and coastal, but there are no beaches. There's a reason not many people come here as tourists.
There isn't much information about things to do in Suriname on the internet. Just searching "Chinese food" or "barber" in Google maps or Trip Advisor won't necessarily get you quality results. We hear about almost everything that's worthwhile by word of mouth.
This is a small place where everyone knows everyone. The sitting president has been convicted of drug trafficking and murder. Sometimes it feels a bit like you're on the edge of the world.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes. It's been a great - and very different - experience, but I'll be ready to go back to a larger city afterwards.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Winter clothes.
4. But don't forget your:
Sunblock and bug spray.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
The Cost of Sugar by Cynthia McLeod
Willoughbyland by Matthew Parker
6. Do you have any other comments?
Like most places, you definitely need to come with the right expectations. Suriname is not necessarily a great tourist destination, but we've found it to be a reasonably pleasant place to live. Paramaribo is small, quiet, and isolated, but it's also friendly, affordable, tropical, and not that far from home.
