Yekaterinburg, Russia Report of what it's like to live there - 08/18/10
Personal Experiences from Yekaterinburg, Russia
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
I lived in Sydney, Australia (as a tourist) and Tashkent, Uzbekistan (as Peace Corps volunteer).
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Cleveland, Ohio. Connections from DC through Frankfurt and Moscow. 16-20 hours depending on layovers.
3. How long have you lived here?
Almost exactly one year.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
US Consulate employee.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Consulate staff live in medium-sized apartments in the center of town within a 10-minute walk of the consulate.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
There are several supermarkets around the city. Western-brand products are difficult to come by, and the availability of fruits and vegetables can vary from week to week. Costs are comparable to those in DC.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Alcohol. Vodka is cheap. Everything else is 2-3X the cost in the US. Bring some 220v converter plugs. You can never have enough.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
There are several Subways and two McDonald's located outside the city center. Restaurants generally offer Russian cuisine. Ethnic restaurants offer "Russified" versions of dishes. Learn to embrace mayonnaise and dill.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
None in the city. Some mosquitoes if you venture out of the city during the summer, but nothing unusual. Ticks can also be a problem in the summer in the woods.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
The diplomatic pouch comes once a week. There is no reliable service for outbound mail.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
The consulate has a small gym. There are several fitness centers around the city, though I can't vouch for their quality or value.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
There are several international banks located around the city, including Citibank. The same rules apply here as anywhere: don't use an ATM card not attached to a large bank.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
None.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
AFN.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Russian is highly recommended. Most restaurants, taxi drivers, and service people speak little to no English.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Icy sidewalks during the winter. The sidewalks are not cleared. The ice tends to build up after several weeks. (The consulate is currently located up several flights of stairs. No elevator.)
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Public transportation is cheap and widely available. Taxis don't use meters. Negotiate up front and try not to use gypsy cabs.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Roads in the city are not great, and they can be worse outside the city. The highways connecting the major cities are relatively well maintained. Studded snow tires are recommended for winter driving. Something with a high clearance is also recommended. Bring your own filters or be prepared to pay through the nose for parts. Russian drivers tend to ignore lane lines. Once you are used to being cut off, the driving is not so bad.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Internet is about $20 month. Pretty good speed.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
The consulate will supply phones to direct-hire employees. Otherwise, bring a phone for use with a SIM card. Service is inexpensive.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No. But you need a current vet certificate and a "pet passport."
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Several good vets are available.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
None.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Russians tend to dress more nicely than Americans. Business casual is acceptable. Men rarely wear shorts in public.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
In general, it is a safe city. Given the very small expat community here, speaking English loudly will attract unwanted attention, but that can be said of almost anywhere.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Common low-level health conditions can be addressed by local clinics. Anything more serious would require a medevac.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Generally good. Traffic exhaust is becoming a problem. The fires in the countryside this summer caused several weeks of smog.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Cold and colder. Winter begins in November and goes through April. It has been known to snow here in June. Having said that, summer is quite pleasant. Spring and fall vary from cold and rainy to cool and sunny.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
There are no international schools.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Very, very small. Some Europeans, a couple of English teachers and missionaries.
2. Morale among expats:
Varied. Size of the expat community makes it hard to judge as a whole. Some people like it here, some hate it.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Good nightlife. A wide variety of cultural institutions: opera, ballet, orchestra, theater, etc.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Fantastic for single males. Families with school-aged children are not recommended, due to the lack of schools. Couples and families with small children do fine.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Russian society generally frowns upon homosexuality, but there is a small GLB community.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Anyone here with Asian features or dark skin will attract attention, both the good and bad kind. Aside from that, there is little racial or ethnic tension here. Gender equality is one of the few good things that seem to have been kept over from the Soviet days.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Summer cafes on the "pond", drinking beer, eating shashlik, and watching the pretty Russian girls stroll by.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Nightlife is pretty good. The city sites can all be seen over a weekend. Trips to a dacha if you are lucky enough to befriend a Russian who owns one.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Russian folk crafts, mineral sculptures, ceramic ware.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
The chance to see the "real" Russia. Life in Moscow and St. Petersburg is far removed from the rest of Russia. You are a big fish in a little pond. The expat community is so small here that being an American (diplomat or not), will open doors for you. A truly bizarre ratio of beautiful women to men.
11. Can you save money?
If you don't eat at the expensive restaurants and don't escape on a charter flight every month, you can save.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Absolutely.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
dislike of cold weather and expectations of Western levels of customer service.
3. But don't forget your:
extra-warm winter jacket and an open mind. There are many similarities between Russian and American cultures, but there are also some glaring differences.
4. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
6. Do you have any other comments?
Russian society is still in an ongoing process of transitioning from their communist past to something different. This makes for some interesting contradictions. (See the Lenin statue with arm outstretched appearing to present the new mall behind him.) Yekaterinburg will offer many more opportunities to interact with locals than St. Petersburg or Moscow.