Moscow, Russia Report of what it's like to live there - 11/13/13
Personal Experiences from Moscow, Russia
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No, we have previously lived in Berlin and St. Petersburg.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
From Washington you can fly direct on Aeroflot in 11-12 hours or via New York on Delta which takes a little longer.
3. How long have you lived here?
We're 1.5 years into a two year posting.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Assignment at the U.S. Embassy.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
There are 4 housing options: the NEC which is at the Embassy compound (families with children and heads of section are housed there); Pokrovsky which is where the Anglo-American school is located, about a 45-minute commute to the Embassy (families with school-aged children are generally housed there); Rosinka which is "mini-America" but so far away from the Embassy that seemingly only contractors are housed there; and city apartments that are spread throughout the city (for singles, couples, and families with kids who aren't yet school-aged).
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Expensive - you can buy almost anything you want in Moscow but often for a price. There is a small commissary at the Embassy as well but it's also quite expensive compared to U.S. prices.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Liquids that can't be shipped in the pouch or bought locally, such as contact lens solution. Otherwise, Moscow has essentially anything you could want.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Tons - lots of U.S. fast food and restaurant chains but Moscow also offers great Georgian, Central Asian, and Asian cuisine. There is something for every palate here.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
None - a perk of the cold climate!
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Diplomatic pouch.
2. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
The Embassy has a gym that is very inexpensive by Moscow standards. It also offers a couple of difficult fitness classes and personal trainers. There are tons of gyms throughout the city but they are available at Moscow prices.
3. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
They are generally safe to use throughout the city although the Embassy has an ATM available. People use credit cards in Moscow but not to the extent that Americans do in the States so make sure you also have cash available.
4. What English-language religious services are available locally?
There is a Catholic church that meets at the Embassy as well as a couple of others such as Moscow Protestant Chaplaincy that attracts many English-speaking expats from places other than the U.S. There is information in the CLO welcome materials about religious services.
5. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
The more Russian you know, the easier it is to live here. The street signs and signs on the metro are in Cyrillic only so a basic knowledge of the alphabet is a must. Some spouses who don't know Russian barely ever leave the Embassy compound which is a shame in such an interesting city.
6. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
There are virtually no handicap ramps anywhere in the city and it can take a lot of time for the streets and sidewalks to be cleared of snow. This would be a very difficult city for someone with physical disabilities.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Yes - one trip on the metro costs under a dollar and you can get almost anywhere in the city on the metro. There is an extensive network of buses and trolleybuses as well.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Anything works although something with high clearance is easier for parking in the snow. We don't have an SUV and were still able to drive all winter with snow tires.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, we use a Yota modem for internet which looks like a thumb drive. It costs about US$30/month although it's not always fast enough to stream movies/TV.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
MTS and Beeline are both good and offer data plans for only US$10/month.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No quarantine necessary. There is an English-speaking vet that many from the Embassy use and I know there are lots of other good vets who are cheaper than U.S. vet care.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
There are lots of great jobs (not just administrative in nature) at the Embassy for spouses. I've never heard of any spouses working on the local economy because of work permit issues and loss of diplomatic privileges.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Business dress at work. Russians are much dressier than Americans so no sweatsuits in public here!
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Pick-pocketing is a risk at major tourist sites and on the metro. There is a risk of race-based violence, especially in certain areas of the city.
2. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Moderate - at times it can be pretty bad because of some of the old cars on the road, but it's mostly okay. It can be very dry in the winter, so pack your humidifier.
3. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
The summer is short, but beautiful with long days and low humidity. The winter is long, cold and dark, but somewhat mitigated by the long January holidays and lots of outdoor activities such as ice skating and cross-country skiing.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
I hear good things about AAS but have no personal experience with the school.
2. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
There is a preschool at the Embassy although many families choose to hire nannies instead. If you live on the embassy compound, it's generally not allowed to have your nanny stay after midnight or overnight.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
The expat community is huge and morale really varies - some love it and do multiple tours here but I think more dislike it and are counting the days until their departure.
2. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Great city for everyone - there is something for everyone to do here. You'd have to try to be bored.
3. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
There are gay clubs and bars but with the passing of the recent ban of LGBT propaganda, it seems less and less safe to be openly homosexual here.
4. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Yes - there have been massive round-ups of immigrants recently, primarily targeting Central Asians. People of African descent also sometimes receive unwanted attention from the police.
5. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Broomball - an expat sport played exclusively in Moscow; cultural events; traveling throughout Europe on the many local holidays.
6. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
The Golden Ring cities outside of Moscow are great to visit in the summertime as well as many of Moscow's parks (that goes for the winter as well). Gorky Park, Red Square, etc. all have great ice skating rinks in the winter. A visit to St. Petersburg is an absolute must for anyone based in Russia.
7. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Matryoshka dolls, amber jewelry, Soviet propaganda posters, etc.
8. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
There's lots to do here - parks, restaurants, museums, theater/concerts, outdoor activities especially in the winter months.
9. Can you save money?
If you don't always shop at the most expensive grocery stores and eat out that frequently, you can probably save some money.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
I wish I had known that it's possible to bike here - not year-round of course, but there are great parks around the city that offer trails.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Definitely not - I was really excited about this assignment but the Embassy is very bureaucratic and that has led to low morale for many people, myself included. Moscow isn't a bad city though.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Flip flops.
4. But don't forget your:
Winter parkas, hats and gloves!
