Bucharest, Romania Report of what it's like to live there - 06/03/23
Personal Experiences from Bucharest, Romania
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No. Lived in Latin America and Middle East previously.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Home base is in the United States. As of 2023, there are no direct flights from US to Bucharest. The trip takes approximately 14-18 hours to the East Coast. Add another 3-5 hours if flying to West Coast locations. Most common connections are in London and Amsterdam (3-4 hr layover). Other options include Munich or Frankfurt. Direct flights to major U.S. cities available from layover location.
3. How long have you lived here?
Two years.
4. What years did you live here?
2021-2024.
5. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic mission.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Housing options are downtown condos, condos near the embassy in a country club-type setting, townhouses near the embassy, or homes near the international school. People in the suburbs comment about a lack of sidewalks, nearby restaurants, and cabs refusing to pick up so far from town, but many families are really happy with their housing. Longest commutes for all are 20-30 mins in AM and 30-40 mins in PM. More maintenance issues occur in the townhouses and houses. Maintenance team is responsive. The housing options aren't right-sized to demand and it will take several years to acquire more downtown condos to meet interest level. If you want to live downtown, this option may not be available.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Wide variety. Between the large major grocery store chains and smaller boutique shops, you can find most of what you're looking for. Prices are still affordable compared to US, but are much higher post-COVID than from the before times. Meat, especially beef, is very expensive. Romania is the land of pork, be prepared to eat a lot of it. You can order groceries online and have them delivered, though I don't know of anyone who used this option post-COVID.
There are several farmers markets in the downtown area with a good selection of produce. Obor Market is the largest. The big chain grocery stores are Mega Image, Carrefour, Kaufland and Lidl. The nicer ones have a "bio" section of (expensive) organic and other specialty items, like gluten-free and dairy-free foods. Real Foods by Herastau Park has a couple pre-cooked meals (think curry + rice or pork and potatoes) which is nice to have upon arrival. For Asian food, there is a small chain of stores called J&K Store, which stands for Japan and Korea, and they have a good amount of east Asian items (can be pricey).
There is a decent selection of US foods at the embassy commissary, though a fair portion is 6+ months expired. Think peanut butter, Ben & Jerry's, some baking goods, chips, crackers, cereals, frozen meat, etc. The commissary is working on stocking fresher products and should improve with time. Anything else you need you can order through Amazon to your DPO address.
For household decor, there's an IKEA, two hardware stores like Home Depot called Dedeman and Hornbach, and decor stores in the Baneasa mall like Zara Home, Mobexpert and BoConcept.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
No food in Romania is spicy. Bring your favorite seasonings, Asian sauces, and hot sauces. I brought all paper products from US and am glad I did as many of these products in Romania are scented.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Delivery options are available. Eating out is inexpensive compared to US (40-60 RON or $8-$14, and there's great variety. Pizza, pasta, sushi, burgers, passable Thai, fast food, etc. Prices then jump to $25-$35 plate at fancier restaurants (value usually doesn't match cost). Alcoholic drinks range $8-$14. Lots of good Italian. Almost zero Mexican. MAT in Bucharest has the best fish tacos you'll find in Romania. Vegetarians will have a harder time as this is a meat culture, but you can find vegetarian dishes. The coffee scene is fantastic. If you're into coffee, you're going to be very pleased with Bucharest. Romania is a pork country. Expect to eat it at every work function and if traveling outside of Bucharest.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Nope. There are some mosquitoes around the forested areas in summer.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
The embassy has pouch and DPO. Currently it takes 3-5 weeks for outgoing mail to reach the US. Items coming from US take 3-4 weeks, but sometimes you get lucky and it comes in 10-12 days. Last summer the mail was faster. I have not used local Romanian post, nor would I, as I have no trust my item would arrive.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Be prepared for drama. Housekeepers usually come 1x week to clean for 4-8 hrs. Cost is 175-200 RON for 4 hours. Nannies (who often also clean) are more likely to be full-time. Household help either works in the suburbs or works downtown. You'll need to find someone who works in your area. Household help is not as cheap or drama-free as may seem at first glance.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Several private gym options but way overpriced for value. One of the nicest gyms (World Class Fitness) costs 150 Euros/month which includes classes. Many of their clubs have pools, too. The embassy has a small gym and a large shallow pool. I recall seeing a boxing gym downtown but didn't go inside. Two of the more popular places are worldclass.ro and stejariicountryclub.ro.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Yes, yes, yes. I use contactless payment with phone and credit card for 95% of purchase. You can use it even for small purchases. If you are in a rural area or farmers market, you will likely have to pay with cash. You can't add a tip with your credit card at a restaurant, you have to leave a cash tip. Embassy has limited cashier hours but has the best exchange rate. ATMs at large banks are fine.
5. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
In Bucharest, you can get by with English. Many people in the city speak English well, but not as fluent as in neighboring countries. Outside of Bucharest, you may run into issues with people not speaking English. Helps to know numbers, at a minimum. The embassy offers language classes to employees and family members. Using Romanian with locals gets reactions ranging from surprise and patience to annoyance of using your not-great Romanian when you can use English instead.
6. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Somewhat accessible. Some sidewalks in the cities but may be blocked with parked cars. A majority of tall buildings have elevators but lots of stairs and curbs when walking around. Most stores don't have ramps.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Yes. I stick to self-driving, the metro or car services like Uber/Bolt/BlackCab. Uber/Bolt is very affordable within the city. BlackCab is more expensive but people living in the suburbs had better luck with pickups. The subway (only located downtown) costs around $0.50 per ride and comes often, if you can survive the lack of signage. Visitors spoke of getting ripped off by taxis, so stick to Uber/Bolt for your transport needs. Discount airline RyanAir flies from Bucharest to many European vacations. If you can survive the crowding and line cutting for the airport shuttle buses, you'll find a long European weekend getaway is easy and affordable.
Road infrastructure in Romania is vastly underdeveloped. Few highways mean everyone (cars, transport trucks, tractors, horse/cart) shares the same two-lane roads and it takes forever to get anywhere. Quick trains get you to Brasov and Constanta in 3 hours. Trains to other large cities take 6+ hours or are overnight. Save yourself the hassle and hop on a Tarom or RyanAir flight to dozens of European locals for $60-$125 for a long weekend getaway. Flight to Athens is 1 hr, Italy is 1.5 hrs, London is 3 hrs.
2. What kind of vehicle(s) including electric ones do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, infrastructure, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car or vehicles do you advise not to bring?
I like a small SUV for clearance to see what the stupid drivers are doing ahead of me. It's not necessary, especially if you don't plan to drive to the mountains in winter. If you live in a condo, anything bigger than a small SUV probably won't fit in the parking garage. There is a law about having tires rated for snow during winter, but please, no one follows the rules in Romania. With climate change, snowy winters with a foot of snow are a thing of the past, especially in Bucharest.
I would not bring an EV, as I've never seen a charging station. I recommend checking whether your car manufacturer has a dealership in Bucharest so that you can get parts and service. Even then, you may end up ordering some parts from the U.S. because US/Japan made vehicles have different parts than European-made models. Car jacking is unheard of here. Traffic accidents happen often. Romanian insurance costs $550/year (paid in 1 installment so be ready) and I would not trust it at all, so get a second policy with Clements or another international carrier. Registration inspection results vary. Some legal window tinting doesn't pass muster and you are told to remove it. Some obviously illegally dark window tinting passes with no issues. This is a small example of the annoying contractions of living in Romania.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Romania's internet is supposed to be among the fastest in Europe. My fiber optic connection is 2010 speeds. Speeds and quality vary by housing. The primary internet company we have to use is terrible with unreliable billing. I think we pay around $25 per month for unlimited internet (would happily pay more if it had modern internet speeds). Takes 2-3 weeks to get it working upon arrival.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Google Fi. Why Fi? Because you immediately have cell service in whatever European country you land for your weekend trips. Take an unlocked phone if you plan to get a local SIM. I think a local SIM service is $5-$10/month. Fi is more expensive but the true ease of international service makes it worth it. Wifi calling with Fi is now available on iPhones.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No idea, but I think vets, groomers and pet sitters are readily available. Pet sitting can be pricey, up to $40/day, based on coworker comments. No quarantine requirements as far as I know.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Some spouses work remotely, but with a 7 hour time difference to East Coast time zone, working remotely can be a challenge. There are jobs at the embassy as well as the American school. Availability will vary with arrival timing. I haven't heard of anyone getting a job on the local economy.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Unsure about volunteer opportunities, as it's not something I hear discussed often. Might be harder to volunteer if you don't speak some Romanian.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Embassy people tend to wear business casual/suits to work. You can wear whatever you want in Bucharest. Romanians can't tolerate being cold under any circumstance, so dress in layers, especially in winter, as it will be very warm inside a restaurant/movie theater.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Always wear your seatbelt, even in a cab. Driving is the most dangerous aspect of Romania. There is nothing in particular to be concerned about, safety-wise, in Bucharest that you wouldn't be mindful of in any other city in the world. I never felt unsafe walking at night. Use situational awareness and common sense.The usual petty crime concerns for any big city, but nothing unusual. Reports of packs of stray dogs are from 10-15 years ago. You may encounter a few stray dogs but this warning is so widely overblown it needs to be retired.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
It seems like every household had a medevac to London for diagnostic care, to see a specialist, or to get treatment. You'll be medevac'ed for anything that requires an incision and I would not treat a broken bone here. I tried physical therapy and it was so far off the mark from what I experienced in US and Western Europe. For years Romania has struggled with doctor brain drain to Western Europe for better pay. Coupled with a grossly underfunded healthcare system and options are few in country. The healthcare unit at the embassy is good but they can only do so much. Dental care is plentiful and cheap, including cosmetic dentistry, though I hated the machine used by a dentist for a teeth cleaning. Really think twice about your medical needs before bidding Bucharest.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Technically the air quality ratings are poor and don't meet EU standards, but it's fine. Like any large US city. People comment they get allergies for the first time living here.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
Food allergy accommodation is not common in Romania. If you have something like a peanut allergy, I would not trust a restaurant to be able to guarantee a nut-free meal. Being a vegan is not a thing in Romania.
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
No. Winters can be long and gloomy. I heard some co-workers bought sun lamps.
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Romania has four seasons, and the climate is similar to DC, both upper and lower ranges. With climate change, winters have become more mild and more droughts occur in summer. It's been years since Bucharest got more than 1 inch of snow in winter. Spring brings flowers. Summers are hot but low humidity. Fall is gorgeous and long and probably the best season. Winter goes from early November until late March and is almost 100% gloomy gray during this time.
Schools & Children:
1. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Kids have fun at Edenland Park, Therme water park, Destiny Park and bowling.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
The embassy is medium-sized and has ok morale. Romanian culture is indifferent to foreigners. Outside of meeting locals at school functions, I haven't heard of anyone making local friends. Diplomatic community events happen a few times a year but it's not a very active scene.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
There's much to do in the city. Outdoor food festivals and beer gardens in the summer. Tons of music concerts with high-profile artists. Museums. Walk in the numerous parks. Movie theater. Bowling. Hiking in the mountains (have to drive at least two hours from Bucharest). Kids have fun at Edenland Park, Therme water park, Destiny Park and bowling. I haven't participated in any but there are clubs on Facebook. Or travel Europe.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
It's good for everyone. This is primarily a family post.
4. Is it easy to make friends with locals here? Are there any prejudices or any ethnic groups who might feel uncomfortable here?
No.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
There's a small LGBT community in Bucharest with a few bars. There's an Annual Gay Pride Parade which is bigger every year.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Romania, including Bucharest, is very white. If you are non-white, you will stand out. The country is also very religious (Orthodox Christian). There are some issues related to sexism and historically male-dominated society.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Traveling Europe. So easy and inexpensive to take a long weekend in major European cities. Within Romania, the scenery is absolutely beautiful. But be prepared to spend hours in the car driving 40 mph (or slower) on the poorly developed roads. Fly to cities like Cluj, Timisoara and Oradea. A regular weekend is usually enough time to see the major sites and get a feel for the city.
Your sanity will thank you for flying instead of driving. There are trains to Brasov and Constanta which both take 3 hours. The Danube Delta for 2-3 days is nice but takes a five hour drive to get there. The wooden churches and painted monasteries in the north are unique but a hassle to get to. If you travel to the far north, take a week and see everything, including the Mocanita steam train.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Travel: spend a long weekend in Malta. Go to the Vienna Christmas markets. Go to London (several times). In Romania, restaurants in the Dorobanti area of Bucharest. Book a truffle hunting experience in mid October to see the fall leaves. Stay overnight in the tiny village of Viscri. If traveling in the north, stay at Casa Lui in the village of Breb.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
No. In Transylvania and the north you can buy painted eggs, pottery, and traditional wooden spoons . The traditional Romanian blouses are beautiful but have a folk look to them. The Alina Bradu shop in Brasov does modern takes on traditional Romanian clothes. Check it out if you're in Brasov. The Spoonman in Sighisoara is good for the traditional wooden decorative spoon. Sibiu always has events and around Labor Day there's a pottery festival that brings vendors from across the country. Marginea in the north for the famous black pottery at rock bottom prices.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Easy living with reasonable prices.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
I wish someone told me pork was so prevalent in local cuisine. I was unprepared for the number of parks in Bucharest. It's great. However, this is overshadowed by the poor health care system and under-developed infrastructure outside Bucharest. Despite its location on a map, living is Romania is like being in the Balkans, not Europe. If you come prepared with this mindset, you'll be better able to handle the frustrations and contradictions of life in Romania.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
No.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
expectations for medical care, parking, cold drinks, spicy foods, and customer service.
4. But don't forget your:
personal passport and hiking gear.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
The documentary 30 Years of Democracy. It's long, but gives a good overview of why Romania still struggles with corruption and rule of law. Amazon Prime video Tales from the Golden Age. It's a satire that makes fun of the communist times. Both videos have subtitles.
