Doha, Qatar Report of what it's like to live there - 02/08/15
Personal Experiences from Doha, Qatar
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No, fourth.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
DC - when I came, the city-pair was on United through Dubai, but now the last leg of that is cancelled so I think it's a direct flight on Qatar Airways, about 14 hours.
3. How long have you lived here?
2 years.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Embassy.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
There are a huge variety of types and locations of housing here, from apartments to townhouses to "villas." They're spread out across the city, commute times vary from 2 to 45 minutes. Most housing is fairly large, but with very little storage space (and iiittty bitty "closets"). Other than the apartments, the housing is all on compounds.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Very expensive, availability varies. Dairy products are often out of stock and always go bad very fast due to being left out in the heat for too long. There is a pretty wide variety of fruits and vegetables, but for some reason they all go bad exceptionally fast here so it's impossible to get more than a day or two worth. There are random products that are very hard (if not impossible) to find here, such as feminine hygiene products and dryer sheets. It's hard to find sensitive-skin and non-scented cleaning products, too. There is pretty good availability of dry-goods, decent cereal selection, lots of pastas and rices, most canned items, etc., but it's all quite expensive (about US$10 for a box of cereal, for example). And of course there is no alcohol or pork here. Alcohol includes vanilla extract, by the way. So that precludes most baking.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Cereal (it's super expensive here), real coffee (they mostly do that instant stuff here), vacuum cleaner (it's supposedly provided in the furniture pool, but it's really not, and local ones are pathetic and ridiculously expensive), rugs (also not provided in the furniture pool, and floors are all tile; though you can also buy nice rugs locally), slippers (the tile floor thing...), lots of extra clothes (hard to find inexpensive clothes here, mostly they just have designer stores; and your clothes will all wear out super quick because of the hard water and the heat).
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Food is pretty mediocre here, there are only a handful of really good restaurants. All food is very expensive. There are the usual fast food chains, plus some European and Arab chains as well.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Not really any. Some very tiny cockroaches. There are scorpions in the desert, but I've never seen any.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
APO. There's not really local mail here. At least not reliable mail. Partly because there are no real addresses. Pretty much everything is hand-delivered/couriered.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Pretty available and pretty cheap, but generally hard to find good ones. We don't have kids so we just have someone else's maid come once a week to clean, and she's great, but most other people seem to only have complaints about their maids.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
All the compounds have gyms, but many are very poor quality.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Fine to use and available everywhere. Only problem with credit cards is that you need a Qatari credit card for many online or quick-machine services, like Ooredoo (phone/cable company), so you'll have to go in person to do a lot of that stuff, which is a huge hassle and massively time-consuming.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
There is a little church-enclave with churches of several denominations (I think Catholic, Anglican, Baptist, and some orthodox varieties). No Mormon church or synagogue.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
None, most people you'll encounter for daily living aren't Qatari or even Arab.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Yes, almost nothing is handicapped-friendly. Disabilities still have a huge stigma in Qatari society, and most Qataris with disabilities are hidden away at home and never spoken of.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
There aren't really any. There are a couple buses but they have strange and impractical routes, and I don't know anyone who has figured out how to use them. There are also taxis, but they're nearly impossible to flag down or call for one. Previously, everyone just had a private car service guy that they would use as a taxi service. We recently got Uber though and that has been a huge help for transportation. Both of the latter two options are a bit pricey, but mostly safe (sometimes you get a crazy driver and see your life flash before your eyes multiple times on the journey).
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
I recommend an SUV or crossover of some sort, partly so you don't get terrorized on the roads by all the massive SUVs they drive here and partly because the roads are in surprisingly poor condition. When there is construction (which is always) you'll often end up doing a bit of off-roading just to get through it. I wouldn't recommend a huge SUV, though (even though that's what all the Qataris drive...) because despite the fact that most cars here are very large, parking spots here are made for Smart cars. You can get cars here, but they are pretty expensive, especially SUVs. If you bring a car you'll have to get a few things outfitted to meet with local regulations (like install fire extinguishers).
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, expensive and speed varies. They're working on installing fiber-optic everywhere, but the buildings that don't have it yet still have pretty slow speeds. If you have fiber optic you have the potential to have high speeds, but the speed is throttled by the cable company so that they can charge you insane rates to get it faster.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Get a fancy smartphone (or bring an unlocked one), get Ooredoo Shahry for whatever minutes you need and then add a data plan for whatever data you use (I get the smallest pack on Shahry and a 1 or 2GB data plan - it's much cheaper than getting the Shahry with as much data as you want, because they come with very small data allowances).
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No quarantine. There are a couple decent vets, but they're pretty expensive. The vets have boarding services.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Mostly, yes. There's no spousal work agreement for diplomats, though, so getting one might be tricky and is kind of on a case-by-case basis.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Not much. There's no homelessness here, and only poverty as inflicted by employers on the migrant workers. The orphanage doesn't let outsiders in. I guess you could clean up trash on the beaches or something... but the government can also hire people to do that.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Conservative. Suits for work. Cover your knees and shoulders at a minimum (I never show legs at all, and mostly wear 3/4 length or long sleeves), no deep necklines.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
In terms of crime it's very safe here. There was a small terrorist attack about 10 years ago, and you do have that constant threat looming over you in this region, but it's easy to forget it on a day-to-day basis. The main safety concern is road safety - Doha has one of the highest rates of vehicle accident death in the world. It's a strange combination of Qataris who don't care about traffic rules and expats who come from an assortment of countries with little or no traffic laws, and it doesn't mesh well together.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Mostly respiratory problems related to air quality. There's also MERS here, but just stay away from the camels and you'll be fine. There seems to be some kind of child disease epidemic at the moment (lice and pink eye and such), not sure what's going on with that. Medical care is questionable at best. The hospitals look fancy but there are hardly any qualified doctors in them. As in many do not even have valid medical qualifications. There are a few good ones here and there but it's hard to find. I wouldn't recommend getting anything worse than a bacterial infection treated here...
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Very unhealthy - one of the worst cities in the world for PM2.5. Almost everyone has respiratory problems here, many children develop asthma, and when it sandstorms, thousands of kids end up in the hospital. Many adults with no history of allergies have developed terrible allergies and chronic sinus inflammation, and the only advice doctors give is to leave Qatar.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
Don't come to Qatar if you have dust allergies. Just don't. Food, depends on what it is... there's not much peanut used here, but there is a lot of gluten. I find being a vegetarian here quite difficult, that's just not really a thing here.
5. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Unbearably hot for 9 months of the year, idyllic for 3 months, and oddly chilly for about 2 weeks. Summer temperatures are usually around 115-120F, and extremely humid on top of that. In the winter it is in the 70s F, except for about 2 weeks each year when it dips into the low 60s or high 50s. It's sunny 362 days of the year or thereabouts, and usually rains 3 or 4 days in the winter (at which point all the streets flood because there's no drainage).
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
ASD is the main American school here; there are several other options but they fall far behind in quality. ASD is reputably one of the best American schools around the world.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
Depends on the school. At ASD it should be fine, but other schools might not have the capacity.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Yes but they are very expensive. Good quality, though, they are actually more like schools than just daycares. Space is very limited though, so plan far ahead to get your kid in. Also there are weird rules in Qatar now about not allowing kids in nursery school past age 4 (as in literally the day they turn 4 they get kicked out) so there are big issues with gaps in childcare for kids who turn 4 before they start kindergarten.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
ASD has school sports. I'm not sure if there are external expat sports leagues... for Qataris (boys) there are various sports clubs that have youth divisions. There are very nice facilities here, just not many people willing to play.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Expats make up about 88% of the country. Morale is pretty low in general, for various reasons depending on the group. Largely because it's very expensive, hard to get around, and the weather sucks most of the year. Also because expats are mostly treated like garbage by Qataris. There seems to be a standard maximum tolerance level for living in Qatar, and most people reach it at about the six year mark.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Good question... Go out for tea at a fancy hotel seems to be the main form of "entertainment."
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Families seem to like it, since the school is very good and the country in general is pretty family-oriented. Couples and singles often don't have much to do. There's a decent amount of cultural and athletic activities going on, but it's very difficult to go out anywhere in Doha. The city is hugely spread out, traffic is horrendous, and parking is always a problem, so even just going out on a simple expedition will take hours and often it's just not worth the effort for most people.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
No, homosexuality is "illegal" here... just like how they're talking about making anorexia "illegal." Yep cause it makes sense.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Yes, all of the above. Qataris are supreme, then other Gulfis, then everyone else is below that, but especially anyone who looks like the people they bring in as migrant workers (south Asians and Filipinos mostly) will be treated poorly. It's a very conservative Muslim country. There's a little church-town where all the other religions can practice (except Mormons, because the other Christians here held a vote and said they don't count... yes, seriously). Atheism is not even understood at all (and may even be in some ways illegal, I can't remember if that's still the case or not). And as a woman you'll just have problems in general with everything. You don't have to cover here, but you can expect to be leered at most of the time since you don't. There are a lot of male-only places that women either aren't allowed or are just made to feel EXTREMELY uncomfortable if they do venture in. Many male contacts just won't take you seriously as a woman. You'll probably get rude gestures made at you if you drive, and someone will definitely make an absurd comment about women not being able to drive (even though like 90% of vehicular accidents here involve men...) For men, you'll have some annoying access issues. You can't go to girls schools, or girls youth centers or clubs, or the women's sections of buildings or the university. You'll probably have fewer contact with female Qataris, and miss out on half the society.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Iftars, dhow trips, picnics in the desert, seeing the Serra statues.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Desert tours, camel farms (careful of MERS!), Film City, the Serra sculptures in the desert, forts, Souq Waqif, Museum of Islamic Art, Mathaf, Katara, walking along the Corniche, Sheikh Faisal museum, dhow rides, inland sea, singing sand dunes, camel racing, Aqua Park, Al Shaqab horses.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
There's not much actually made here. You can get gold at good prices, though.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Good school, unique culture and people; right now it's a really interesting time to be here since it is developing so quickly. It almost feels like a country caught in two different centuries. Or as the more cynical would say, a third-world country with a first-world facade.
10. Can you save money?
No way. Even if you don't do anything, just food alone will break the bank.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
I wish I had known how bad the air quality was and how hard it is to do anything here. I was prepared for a lot of the flaws of Qatar, but those two have really been the biggest pains for me (literally! I'm in constant pain from the dust and pollution). If you have a full-time maid or stay-at-home spouse who can take care of a lot of the necessities of life for you, it's probably okay, but for me having to do all that by myself it's just not possible with a full-time job. Just going to the grocery store is a several-hours expedition. When I first arrived and tried to register a car it took 3 or 4 hour+ visits to the traffic department. In order to pay my phone and cable bills I have to physically go to an Ooredoo store and wait in line for usually an hour. And anytime you go anywhere you have to allow at least 30 minutes each way for driving (even if it's only a mile away; if it's on the other side of the city that'll be an hour drive, at least), plus another 20+ minutes for finding parking and getting into the location. Then of course when you get there that store won't have what you need, so you'll have to spend another 2 hours going somewhere else. And they won't have it either. And you'll nearly die 3 times on the way.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Nooooooo. Mostly because of health reasons. I've pretty much been constantly sick for 2 years. But also because life here is just so difficult for so many little reasons that all add up to one constant headache and a lot of stress.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Umbrella, shorts, short skirts, tank tops, winter clothes.
4. But don't forget your:
Sunglasses, sunscreen, power adapters (British outlets here, but for some reason all the appliances the Embassy gives you have European plugs), top-of-the-line phone.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
6. Do you have any other comments?
There seem to be 2 types of people here: people who are blissfully happy and apparently ignorant of any negative thing about Qatar, and cynical pessimists who've had a really hard time here and can't wait to leave. As you can probably tell, I'm in the latter category. Almost all women are in the latter category. Pretty much only men with kids and stay-at-home wives are in the former. I actually tried really hard when I first got here to hold off the cynicism (even though in general I am someone more likely to see the negatives). But when you have to drive and deal with daily life here it is just impossible not to get stressed and depressed. You know how people say it's more about the job and the people you work with than about the local conditions? This is the exception. I LOVE my job here, it's fantastic. And almost everyone at the Embassy is great, too. But I've hated it here. Everything here is just too difficult. I have colleagues here who've been to warzones, 25% hardship posts, been evacuated from posts, and they still all say Qatar is the hardest place to transfer to and live in.
