Doha, Qatar Report of what it's like to live there - 03/04/12
Personal Experiences from Doha, Qatar
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Fourth expat experience.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Washington, DC.Trip is an 18 hour flight, including a stop in Europe.
3. How long have you lived here?
Over 1 year.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Government.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
My commute isn't bad - 15 or 20 minutes. There is a lot of traffic in the city though, and it's getting worse every year. They are building a new roads infrastructure, but in the meantime the traffic will get even worse has they block off the roads for construction.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
There are a number of Western supermarkets including Carrefour and Spinney's. You can find pretty much any British product and most U.S. products if you are willing to pay for them. Veggies are imported and expect to pay a premium for quality. If you have to have the exact same brands you eat at home, shopping can get expensive, but if you're willing to go with other brands and try some tasty middle eastern and indian foods, it's not too expensive.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Pet supplies. Wall hangings and other things to decorate the house. Air purifiers. We loaded up on cleaning/household supplies at Costco and it saved us money - even though you can find everything here.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
All the fast food/corporate food you could want - from Applebees to Burger King to Nando's. Restaurants run the gamut in price, but you can find some good deals, particularly for middle eastern/indian foods. Eating out is a major pastime for locals and expats alike. Expect to put on some weight.
5. What kinds of organic, vegetarian and allergy-friendly foods are available, such as organic produce, gluten-free products, meat substitutes for vegetarians, etc?
There's a supermarket my wife and I like called Megamart which has lots of speciality items. My wife was on a gluten free kick for a while and was able to find products, albeit at a premium. You can also order a lot of stuff online if you have APO
6. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
A few cockroaches, but not much. Few lifeforms can survive the climate.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
APO.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
You can get one for $7 or $8 hour, or less if you have a live-in maid.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Most of the compounds have small gyms. Mine is more than sufficient
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
No issues with ATMs
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
There is a government-sanctioned "church city" where several denominations have churches, including Catholic, Protestant (Anglican I think), LDS, and Greek Orthodox.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
There are three english language newspapers. Most cable stations are in english.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Arabic is not necessary to get around. Signs are all in english and arabic, and most people speak english. You may find yourself forgetting your Arabic while you are here.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Relative to many world capitals, it's not too bad. You can drive everywhere, there is handicapped parking at the malls, and plenty of elevators.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Taxis are affordable, but few and far between. If you want to order one you will need to call half a day in advance. I've never taken a bus. You'd probably wilt while waiting for the bus during the warmer months.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
I would recommend a large SUV, which is what most of the locals drive. People drive very aggressively here, and the bigger you are the more likely you are to get respect on the road. There are a lot of accidents, so a bigger car will probably give you more protection. You could get by with a sedan, but there are some nasty speedbumps on the side roads, so you'd want to have a decent clearance (no low-riders).
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Internet is fast. I don't remember what it costs, but it can't be too bad or I would remember.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Qtel works fine.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No.
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
There are some decent vets/kennels. We are happy with ours.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
There are plenty of job opportunities on the local economy, but due to legal restrictions it can be hard for the spouses of diplomats to get permits to work.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Business dress at work. Men usually do not wear shorts unless going to the pool. Women are generally expected to dress conservatively in public (longer dresses/pants, no shoulders, no cleavage).This isn't Saudi Arabia though, and you will often run into people in the malls or hotels dressed rather scandalously.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
The country has very low crime. Some Qataris leave their cars with the key in the ignition when they go to shop, though I think that would be tempting fate.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Food safety is pretty good. There are some decent medical facilities including the private al ahli hospital. For some speciality procedures/treatment you need to go to Hamad, the public hospital. Hamad has decent equipment/doctors and is very affordable (a real boon for many of the expat laborers) but takes a long time to get service. You can spend half a day there trying to get some nurse's attention and then have to walk around in circles to get the right feespaid.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Limited artificial pollution but there is lots of dust, particularly during dust storms, which happen about once very couple months
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Virtually no rain, yet plenty of humidity because of the Gulf. November through March is beautiful. October and April-May are pretty warm. June through September is unbelievably hot. In July and August the temperature can get up to highs of 120 and lows in the mid 90s. It feels like you're on the surface of another planet. Everything is air-conditioned
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Everyone raves about the American School here, which is said to have great facilities and dedicated teachers. I was told that children have to meet certain basic standards to enroll in the school, and some USG employees were not able to enroll their kids because they didn't meet the qualifications.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Not sure, but given that sports is a big priority here (they recently declared a National Sports day holiday), I'm sure there's got to be stuff.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Large. Expats outnumber locals 4 to 1.
2. Morale among expats:
Varies. Most Western expats don't last more than a couple years, but a few stick around for a while. Most people are drawn here for the money.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
A lot of socializing centers around kids. Drinking is expensive in bars - expect to pay as much as $15 for a heineken - so people often have parties at home. Some of my single friends have active social lives, and others seem rather bored.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Families with kids seem to do the best here. Some single people do fine, but others are unhappy. You have to be able to entertain yourself.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Homosexuality is illegal here, as it is in the rest of the Gulf. There's probably an underground scene, but I don't know anything about it.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
There is quite a bit of prejudice/discrimination here, particularly towards South Asians and Filipinos, who form the the bulk of the workforce. Some of the malls have "family days" which technically implies that single men cannot go, but in practice does not apply to Arab or European men. I have not heard of women being excessively harassed here, but it is a conservative and male-dominated society.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Our house and the compound - which has plenty of open space. I've enjoyed the work a lot and the fact that you rarely feel cold. I enjoyed travelling to Sri Lanka and other places in the Middle East. I like eating out a lot. I also like the interesting blend of expat cultures here.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Souq Waqif, the Islamic Art Museum (and a couple newer museums), Katara cultural village, and the boardwalk of the pearl (artificial island) are all amusing. Plenty of good eating out options, especially for middle eastern food. There is an area about an hour's drive south with a beach resort and sand dunes where you can ride ATV's. You could fill about a week with activities before you started running out of things to do. Many expats spend their free time at malls or in hotels (which are the only places where alcohol is served).
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Not very much is made here. I have a pakistani tailor I like that makes affordable suits.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
No Winter. Easy and cheap to travel in the Arabian Peninsula or to South Asia. Plenty of good middle eastern/Indian food. Interesting sporting and cultural events that come through town during the cooler months , most of which are very cheap because they are subsidized. For example, yesterday I went to a huge Murakami art exhibit, and a couple weeks ago there was a Women's Tennis tournament that brought in the top-ranked players.
11. Can you save money?
Not the best place to save money. If you travel that will eat out of your budget. Surprisingly, flights to anywhere but the Arabian peninsula and South Asia are quite expensive from Doha.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Definitely if I had some older kids and could send them to the American School (though I would send them home during the summers).I've enjoyed my work a lot, but socially it hasn't been the most exciting tour.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Winter clothes.
3. But don't forget your:
Zen-like patience. Driving can be very frustrating here and you will need patience when someone in a land cruiser pulls up inches behind your bumper and flashes his brights at you to move out of the way, because you're only going the speed limit. Flipping the bird is a crime. You'll also want to bring plenty of DVDs, video games, books, and other forms of self-entertainment.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
6. Do you have any other comments?
There are definitely many worse places you could be posted to. Doha is safe and comfortable, if a bit boring at times. Come here with managed expectations and you will do okay. I recommend sending your spouses/kids home during July and August so they can retain their sanity.
