Kathmandu, Nepal Report of what it's like to live there - 05/03/08
Personal Experiences from Kathmandu, Nepal
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No, between the two of us - Prague, Nairobi, and Lahore.
2. How long have you lived here?
Two years.
3. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
I am posted to the U.S. Embassy here.
4. Travel time and best routes to this city from Europe or the US:
KTM is on the other side of the world. From DC we fly to Tokyo - Bangkok, overnight and then a three hour flight to KTM. You can also go the Atlantic route but it is usually more $$. Around 40 hours door to door.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Some apartments, mostly single family homes. All homes are fairly large, in walled gated compounds, most with very little green space.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Local food prices have risen sharply here in the past two years as they have worldwide. Anything imported will be relatively expensive. Locally grown food is still fairly reasonable for us, but becoming unreasonable for Nepalis.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Not much. Maybe some specialty foods etc.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Nothing 5 star, but there are many places that are good enough. No fast food chains - for which I am grateful.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Pouch.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Day guard/gardener, Didi (she might nanny/cook/clean) and Driver will run approximately US$350. a month. Hours and benefits and pay actually vary quite a bit. They are very, very helpful to have available when you hit the ground. Hire provisionally from a person who is leaving and reassess after a month. It will make your entry much nicer.
3. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Credit cards - don't do it. Numbers are stolen all the time. I haven't heard any issues with ATMs but check with your bank on fees. I hear USAA doesn't charge a fee.
4. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Yes, Catholic and Protestant and Mormon. There is a Rabbi for the backpack crowd. Of course there are a plethora of expats who come here to pursue Buddhism.
5. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Newspapers in English - inexpensive. TV/Internet is a combined package and is expensive - over US$100 a month.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Of course anything you can learn is helpful and respectful. Many people in the city center speak English and most signs are in both English and Nepali.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
There is absolutely no wheelchair access anywhere. Period.
Transportation:
1. Do you drive on the right hand side of the road or the left?
Left. And people with drivers report a far lower frustration level than those who drive themselves. Traffic is heinous.
2. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
We are only advised to take taxis and they are fine, inexpensive, but dirty and hot.
3. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Slight paradox here. The roads are narrow in town and a huge SUV is difficult to maneuver, park etc. That said, the roads, especially outside the city center can be very poor and a more rugged vehicle is more helpful. We drive on the left side of the road. While some do, I would not bring a vehicle here. Buy it locally, count on a LOT of wear and tear and sell before you go. You'll trade paint every day with other drivers.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes - see above.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
They are issued to all direct hires and EFMs here. We pay our own bills however.
3. What is the best way to make phone calls back home?
Online. Skype, MSN messenger whatever.
Pets:
1. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
The vets do house calls. How good are they??? Make sure to ship all pet meds.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
No. Some NGOs. EFM jobs at the embassy pay very little.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Business attire at work. Modest for women in public, but not too restrictive. Younger women are increasingly dressing more Western - which is kind of a shame.
Health & Safety:
1. Pollution index (Good, Moderate, Unhealthy, or Very Unhealthy)?
People will tell you it is unhealthy. But honestly we don't spend a lot of time walking in the downtown area where the air is the worst.
2. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Certainly you could be at the wrong place at the wrong time. Generally we feel quite safe. The embassy is very security conscious.
3. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Hope and pray you don't have an emergency situation. You'll get medevac'ed for most issues. There is an expat health clinic and a dentist.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Monsoon during summer time, dry season during winter. Nice weather. Mild winter!
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
My children are younger and we have generally had a good experience. People with older parents report a few issues - mainly regarding a lack of training/accountability for some of the long-term resident teachers.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
There is some assistance, but limited.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
There are actually many, many options here. Montessori, playgroups etc. Most people have a Didi or nanny in their home as well.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Unsure. Fairly large for a place like KTM.
2. Morale among expats:
Good for the most part. The long term expats are an extremely unique and interesting bunch. You won't find many places in the world with a group quite like them. Most expats are quite happy and knew they were moving to a developing country. There are some however who don't get a lot of support from their organizations, had unrealistic expectations etc. who are unhappy.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
We have made friends in different communities and have enjoyed our social life here. Some who limit themselves to just the embassy community can feel a little claustrophobic understandably. See note at the end re. Phora Durbar.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Yes - there is something for everyone. Each life stage has its opportunities and challenges.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
It is a traditional culture. That said, the media does report openly about some gay issues. I know people who are gay here but don't know what their experience has been like.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Are you kidding? All of the above.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Nepal is physically beautiful and culturally fascinating. There is more to see than is possible in a two year tour! In the KTM Valley there are many religious/cultural sites to visit. Lots of outdoor adventure trips. And, of course, trekking in the Himalayas is incredible.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Rugs, pashminas, jewelery, brassware etc.
9. Can you save money?
Now that all depends on whether you choose to. There is plenty to spend it on - but you don't have to.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Absolutely.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Strappy sandals. Strollers except for airport use and at the American Rec Club.
3. But don't forget your:
Adventurous spirit, hiking boots and sense of humor.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
All Samrat Upadhay.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
All Samrat Upadhay.
6. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
No ... but you can rent some Bollywood stuff to get in the mood :-). Nepal is not India ... but it is often India Lite.
7. Do you have any other comments?
The American Rec Center, or Phora Durbar, makes this a great place for families. It has swimming pools, tennis courts, playgrounds, a cafe etc. You will be there a lot. It is a hub for expat community in the center of town. A nice oasis for which we are all grateful.
