Kathmandu, Nepal Report of what it's like to live there - 04/15/25
Personal Experiences from Kathmandu, Nepal
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No. Taipei, Freetown, Chengdu, Guayaquil, Utrecht, Havana, and Chengdu.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Washington, DC.
3. What years did you live here?
2023-2025.
4. How long have you lived here?
1.5 years.
5. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
U.S. Embassy Diplomatic Mission
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Housing is decent and consists of detached single-family homes, townhouses, or modern apartments. Most housing is within walking distance of neighborhood grocery stores and veggie stands.
Most houses, townhouses, and apartments that I have seen have rooftop decks or spacious balconies, offering great spaces for hosting outdoor dinners, taking in views of the mountains, or barbecuing. US Embassy housing all has backup generators, and the embassy provides distillers for home use.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Lots of good veg Nepali and Indian as well as other international options. I have been happy with restaurant options from Thai, Chinese, Indian, and European. International fast-food chains are lacking, and to the best of my knowledge, drive throughs do not exist.
Beef is hard to come by and is substituted with buffalo. Ground chicken in the place of beef is also very good and popular here. This is not a good fish post, so pack your canned salmon in your consumables or expect to pay a premium for fish from Nina and Hagars grocery, which imports it.
There’s a popular farmers' market on Saturdays where many foreigners buy organic veggies and other foods like bagels, cheese, readymade foods and handicrafts from local artisans. There are some organic food delivery options as well. You can buy locally produced, boiled milk from small dairies and locally produced cheese, but it takes some getting used to. Do not expect it to be great.
Generally, packaged products are cheaper and of poorer quality than in the US. Most food is produced locally. Variety is limited to mostly local brands.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
liquids
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Foodmandu, Daraz (like Amazon), Taximandu, Farmshop (organic veggies and products)
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
More spiders than I'm used to, but small, non-threatening ones.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Local Daraz Deliveries come to the house, same with food orders.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Nanny: $250-$700 a month for FT
Driver: $300-$750 a month FT
Gardener: $60-$150 a month PT (depending on needs)
Cook: $200-$400 a month PT, depending on needs
3. Do you feel that it is safe to walk, run or hike outside? Are there areas where bike riding is possible? What is the availability and safety of outdoor space for exercising? Are these easily accessible?
As a man, this is a very safe place at all hours. Crime is generally low here. This is not India, but I have heard that women need to be more cautious.
4. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There are gyms, some have air filters, at much cheaper costs than in the U.S.
5. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
I know people who use them at grocery stores and restaurants that cater to foreigners without problems. I try to use only Nepali Rupees here. Some people get local bank accounts to make life easier.
6. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Catholic, Christian, LDS, Muslim, Hindu, Buddhist, etc.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
I get by with only a few words. If you venture out of the valley and away from tourist areas, you may want more.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Physical - probably. The sidewalks are almost non-existent and many buildings lack elevators.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Local buses are cheap, roughly like $6 for an overnight bus from Kathmandu to Pokora. Around Kathmandu, they are about 10 cents a trip. Local transport is generally safe but may lack seat belts and pick pocketing on crowded transport is possible. Local taxis and motorbikes are cheap and readily available. For motorbikes, you may need to supply your own helmet if you want one. There are no trains but there are a few tourist trams that will take you up mountains.
The roads here are poorly maintained and people generally do not follow any set traffic patterns unless required to by traffic police. Because of this, going 7 miles by car can take an hour, depending on the time of the day. Expect people to walk out in front of you and expect to be cut off by motorcycles and bikes. In most cases, I avoid going far from my house, unless I’m going to the mountains, because I dislike being stuck in traffic.
2. What kind of vehicle(s) including electric ones do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, infrastructure, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car or vehicles do you advise not to bring?
Right hand drive is standard. I have a 24yr old Diesel 4x4, which is perfect. I have roll over bumpy roads without worry for the undercarriage or scratches from other cars. I do worry about the age of my vehicle when I travel outside of the mountains but my driver has done an outstanding job keeping the old clunker in good running condition. If you bring something nice, expect it to be damaged many times.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Local phone and internet is generally very cheap and fairly reliable. I got my daughter cell service with mobile data for about $6 a month.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
I use a local phone and Google Fi. Both work well within the valley. My Google Fi is really only necessary when I travel out of Nepal but it's nice to have both.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
There are good vets here. I imported a small dog and a cat. Not sure about quarantine rules for non-diplomats. Ours did not need to be quarantined but they came directly from the U.S. via a quick layover in Istanbul.
Note: dog walking in neighborhoods is complicated because there are so many territorial strays. At my last post I loved walking my dog every morning but now I have my driver walk the dog at the American Club, where there is a dog park and no threatening strays. Note that strays are only threatening to other dogs, generally not people (unlike several other places abroad that I have lived).
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
This is currently changing for the USG but generally there are jobs with international schools, NGOs, and foreign diplomatic missions. Working on the local economy outside of the expat circle could be rewarding but may not pay anything.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Anything you want to do. There are lots of options in every sector.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Informal, or local dress is fine. Just keep it conservative, and no short skirts or shoulders showing. Its a very traditional society.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Dengue Fever, food and water safety related illnesses.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Air pollution, food and water bourn illnesses, dengue, traffic accidents etc… This isn’t Kansas Dorothy! With that said, the Embassy MED unit is prepared to help and there are a few reputable local hospitals that we use. Two of my kids are undergoing orthodontic treatment, which has been affordable and professional.
I've been impressed with the local hospitals and they are very affordable.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Six months of rain keeps with air quality acceptable, four months are tolerable, and two months can be hazardous. Check out WHO Historical Data for Kathmandu (and other cities) to see AQI color coded by severity by year, month and day. It's a great way to do more informed Post research. We used it and still chose to come here. The Air quality right before the rains come can be really bad when everyone is burning the fields. Note, they burn garbage in Kathmandu year round.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
Most meds are available locally. The dust in the dry season is bad and can even be bad indoors.
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
High morale. There's a great expat and local community despite the air quality development issues.
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Mild and dry October-April
Wet and humid April-October
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Our four children attrend Lincoln school and like it. The school has nice facilities and has a well-coordinated busing system to accommodate before and after school activities, as well as those on the weekends. I think most of the Embassy kids go to Lincoln, but a few go to the French school and the British school. I
do feel for my kids because they have a long bus ride to and from school, whereas, I have a 25-minute walk to work or a 5-minute drive. Lincoln is big into swimming, football, track, volleyball, and badminton, and competes in those sports regionally. If your kids like sports and value them above all else, this will be a good school for them. The student body is diverse with about 25% being American, 25% Nepali, 25% Indian, and 25% other. I do wish there were more Americans at Lincoln in the high school, but it seems like there are plenty in the lower grades. My four kids are ages 11 - 17.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
Lincoln can provide some assistance for special needs kids and I have heard good feedback from parents to have kids that use it. I only have limited personal experience with it but the school counselor is excellent.
3. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Lots of local sports and afterschool activities. Anything you want, you can find. Lincoln school offers a wide range of before and after school activities and bussing to support transport to and from home in coordination with it.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Large community with high morale. Many foreigners return to Kathmandu for multiple tours because they like it so much. It is a tough but rewarding place to live.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
American Club, Hash harriers, art exhibits, art studios, dance studios, clubs, fine dining, dive bars, churches, you name it. Kathmandu has a active expat community.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
It's good for all. A very open, and accepting city. Its been great for our family of 6 and two pets.
4. Is it easy to make friends with locals here? Are there any prejudices or any ethnic groups who might feel uncomfortable here?
People are very friendly. If you want friends, you can definitely make plenty.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Yes. There's an active LGBT community in Kathmandu and same sex marriage was legalized here.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
There is a Caste system that affects locals.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Mountain biking into the hills surrounding the Kathmandu Valley and before work most mornings. Bike Trek of Annapurna Circuit. Safari in Chitwan. Weekend trip to the Golden Triangle in India.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
local weddings and festivals.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
not a shopping Post, unless you are crazy bout rugs and local art. It's a great place to save money.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Cheap house help. Good international school. Great expat community. Good work-life balance.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
This really is a developing country, and travel outside of the valley by car is painfully slow.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Absolutely.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
roller blades.
4. But don't forget your:
mountain bike, trekking gear, favorite liquid, and dairy products.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
NO Beast So Fierce (about a man-eating tiger).
6. Do you have any other comments?
The trekking is generally in rough terrain here. If you like mountains, this is the place for you. The mountain biking is amazing, and venturing out from home is the norm.
