Kathmandu, Nepal Report of what it's like to live there - 08/05/15
Personal Experiences from Kathmandu, Nepal
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
I've lived in Paris and Cairo.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Chicago... it's a long trip, shortest route is nearly 36 hours, through Doha or Istanbul (but beware Turkish airlines is not the best and they are late almost everyday).
3. How long have you lived here?
20 months.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Government
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Houses are larger than in the U.S., most U.S. government employees live in large single family houses with a few on compounds. The houses can be old and not very updated with funny-colored all-tile bathrooms (I have a bathroom with floor to ceiling blue tiles with jumping dolpins). They are all close enough to the Embassy to walk to work in a reasonable time.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
The local food and produce is cheap, but can be low quality. The imported items are very expensive (US$8 for cream cheese, etc.). Beef and some vegetables (red peppers, peas, brussels sprouts) and almost all quality dry-goods are imported (cereals, pasta, etc.). Depending on how you eat, you can either save a ton of money or go broke.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
My favorite beer, liquor, and wine. There is some here, but a limited selection. pickles. I miss pickles. Bring Western spices, quality cleaning supplies, personal care, pet food, ziplock bags. These can all be difficult to find on the local market. Basically anything you really NEED, bring with you, as you probably can't find a quality version here.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
There is a food delivery service that will deliver food from many restaurants for $1.00 delivery charge. There's not really fast food available (there's a KFC, but I haven't tried it). There are a lot more restaurants than I expected. There's really almost everything your could want, including sushi and Japanese food, Korean BBQ, Thai, Vietnamese, etc. in addition to Nepali restaurants. The "American" restaurants seem to have the lowest quality food.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
mosquitoes in the summer, but not too bad.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Through the Embassy. I have heard that there is a local post office, but haven't ever tried to use it.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Cheap and prevalent. Many people employe 3 or 4 local staff, from housekeepers, nannys, drivers, gardeners, and guards. A typical salary is less than US$150 a month. Many staff can be afraid of dogs, but if you search you can usually find good quality staff to suit your needs.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There are a few, but I have not used them.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Credit cards are accepted at some places and are becoming more widely accepted, but cash is still the norm. ATMs have a 10000 nrs. limit (approx. US$100), so you can find yourself using them frequently and if you have to pay an ATM fee with your bank it can really add up.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
I don't know any and get along just fine. Many locals don't speak English, but there's always someone who does and is willing to translate nearby.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Yes. There are no accomodations for individuals with physical disabilities. There are few sidewalks and they are generally in bad condition. I have seen individuals in wheelchairs rolling down the side of the street. That said, there is an active disability rights advocacy scene, so it's not impossible.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
No trains. Buses are scary. Taxis are safe and really affordable, crossing from one side of the city to the other will cost you US$5. You can convince taxi drivers to take you to really remote places for US$10-$20. Bring your negotiation skills.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Depends. In the city, a compact car is just fine. If you are thinking of driving yourself outside the city (yikes!) you would want a high-clearance, 4-wheel drive vehicle. I don't know many people who drive outside the city. They drive on teh left and have really strict import restrictions, so I highly recommend buying a car locally. The servicing seems to be fine here, but at Western prices.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, there are three main providers, each with their own issues (reliability, customer service, cost). The most reliable with the best customer service will cost US$150 a month for 1MBPS service. The least reliable will cost US$60 for 5 MBPS, it really depends on your tolerance for outages. The middle of the road provider is around $100/month but has terrible customer service.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
If you want a smart phone, bring it with you. iphones, etc. are available here, but can be expensive. The local cell service is 3G, and generally very good.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No quarantine, but the quality of vet care can be a challenge. There are two decent vets in the city, but there is a lack of pet medicines and pet products in the city. Kennels, especially large ones, are impossible to get in the city, so bring one with you. That said, there is a huge street dog and stray cat population, so if you are considering getting a pet, this is the place to do it, just come prepared.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
No. They can be hard to find, pay little, and work permits are very difficult to obtain.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Many- there's a ton of need, so anything you would want to do you could find a place to do it, from animal welfare to orphanages, to counseling centers.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Generally quite casual in public, in the office it's business casual/business depending on where you work. Leave your high-heels at home as its difficult to walk on the streets/sidewalks.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Not really, this is one of the safest places I have ever lived. As a single female, I have never felt threatened or uncomfortable. Be careful while driving as the drivers are terrible and if you get into an accident, people will "mob" around the scene.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Yes, many. Medical care is not the greatest although there are two clinics that cater to tourists and westerners. Any major health problems are better dealt with outside the country. Food poisoning and the Kathmanpoops happen to everyone, frequently. Bleaching fruit and veggies is recommended. Don't drink the water. Many people have challenges with the air quality and respiratory illnesses.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Terrible in the winter. Not bad during monsoon season as the rain washes away most of the pollution, but it's not a clean place by any means.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
bring allergy meds, dust, dander, and pollen are prevalant.
5. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Its mild year-round, with hotter summers, but with monsoon it cools off when it rains, so it's not too hot. Winters require a light jacket.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Much smaller after the earthquake. Morale is okay, there is a lot to do and see. It can be hard to live here, especially if you need Western things (like paved roads!), so some people have a harder time than others. Things are slowly getting back to normal, so hopefully the expat community will begin to rebuild.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Mostly just bars and restaurants. It's a make-your-own entertainment kind of place. There's no theater or concert venues, but there are a lot of local bands that play at the bars in town if you like live music. One of the local bars just installed the first draft-beer system, so that's available now.
Many people prefer to socialize while being active here, running, hiking, mountain biking, yoga all have active communities.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
I think its good for all, but some youger singles find it difficult to go out as the bars are very smoky and can be quite crowded and very loud. However, those who are into the club scene have a few decent choices. There are a lot of activites for those who are looking for an active lifestyle, there's a climbing wall, tennis courts at the American club, many yoga options, etc.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
yes, Nepali culture is accepting of everyone.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
As a Westerner Nepalis will stare at you. However, they are all very nice. I have not run into any prejudices that I've noticed. Dating can be challenging due to cultural differences and men can still be condescending to women sometimes.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Visiting places outside Kathmandu. Get out of the city if you can, places like Ilam, Dolpa, Mustang are phenominally beautiful. It can take some time to get there, but it's really worth the trip as long as you are in the country.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
There's a go-kart track that can be fun, a climbing wall.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Antique Tibetan furniture and carpets; hand carved wood or stone sculptures; Buddhist Thanka paintings; textiles, really a lot of neat things.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Saving lots of money. Mild weather. Exceptionally nice locals. Fun/interesting culture. Great handicrafts.
10. Can you save money?
YES!!!
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
How to drive a manual transmission car. I don't really think any amount of preparation would have changed my experience. Unless you've lived in India it's a culture/living experience like nothing else.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
I think so. Maybe for a shorter time, but it's been a really great experience.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Western standards. Desire for green space and running/walking outdoors.
4. But don't forget your:
Openness for new experiences.
