Kathmandu, Nepal Report of what it's like to live there - 07/25/14
Personal Experiences from Kathmandu, Nepal
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Previously lived in Kathmandu as a student.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
From Washington, DC, it's anywhere from 24 to 40 hours with layovers in the Middle East or East Asia. I have flown through Doha, Korea, and Thailand - all are good routes with good airlines.
3. How long have you lived here?
2012-2014.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Government.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Mostly large family homes, with a number of apartments. We lived in the apartments - they were spacious for a couple, and we enjoyed the community and proximity to downtown (5 minutes driving) and the Embassy (5 minutes driving). Facilities and GSO were both very responsive to maintenance/general housing requests, although they are somewhat limited in their ability to make repairs as most of the housing is leased.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Very cheap but limited and very seasonal. Kathmandu was getting more and more products over the course of my tour. Pack lots of liquids and canned foods in your consumables. You can get everything else you need at the commissary or on Amazon. Also, there are a number of great companies that deliver things like strawberry and fresh milk/yogurt to your house. Ask around about them.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Liquids.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
A number of decent restaurants but nothing fantastic. Everything is cheap and there are a lot of restaurants catering to expats that serve hygienic food.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Spiders, ants, mosquitoes, roaches - but all pretty occasional and not bothersome. Others had worse issues with mosquitoes but they don't carry disease here.
Daily Life:
1. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Plentiful and cheap.
2. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There are small gyms at the Embassy and the American club. There's also a burgeoning gym business around town. The Embassy has cross fit and other fitness classes. There's a good yoga studio in town.
3. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Nepal is a cash based economy. There are ATMs in most of the touristy areas as well as at the Embassy.
4. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Very little but a little goes a long way and will make your experience so much better.
5. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Definitely. I frequently saw people in wheelchairs going down the middle of the road in traffic because the sidewalks were inadequate or didn't exist. You could get around in a car but you would be severely limited.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
No trains here. Taxis are safe and affordable although not the most comfortable experience. Public transportation is even cheaper and less comfortable.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Something small but with high clearance. Inquire with post about the car import rules before you come - the rules changed after we arrived and you could no longer import any used cars.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes. On the slower side. We could sometimes stream video. I can't remember how much we paid but it wasn't particularly expensive.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Not a lot. If your skills are in the development field, you'll do much better. There were a lot of jobs at the Embassy but not usually matching with the experience levels of our family members.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Business to business casual at the Embassy. Very casual in public.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Not really - you will feel very safe here. Women should be careful about walking alone at night, though, and should definitely not hike or trek alone.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Plenty of health concerns. Gastrointestinal issues are a major problem here. Most people are sick on a regular basis. Luckily, though, there is no dengue or malaria. Medical care is very limited. The medical unit was not equipped to deal with long-term health issues.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Bad and getting worse. One of the worst things about Kathmandu. Do not expect that you will be able to go for a pleasant jog in the morning, unless you live out on the edge of town (which has its own disadvantages).
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Great temperate year-round. It never gets below freezing in Kathmandu although it can feel very cold in the housing during the winter months (Nov-Feb). Fall and spring are absolutely gorgeous. Late spring can get a little stifling but it soon gets better with the monsoon rains, which clear away all the pollution as well. Monsoon is muddy and humid but pleasant enough.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
I don't have any firsthand experience but people seemed to be happy with the American and French schools.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Medium to large but it can feel a little claustrophobic sometimes because Kathmandu is so isolated.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Lots of in-home entertaining. A number of cultural events, concerts, parties going on around town.
3. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Nepal is surprisingly tolerant of the LGBT community despite the fact most of the society is very conservative. I knew a number of gay expats who seemed to be happy in Kathmandu.
4. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Within Nepali society, absolutely. There is certainly discrimination against expats of color, as well, mostly in the form of staring and inappropriate comments. The gender discrimination is much more subtle but as a Westerner, it will get under your skin.
5. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Trekking in the Everest and Mustang regions. Seeing the Terai in its monsoon colors. Watching the city light up during Tihar (the Nepali equivalent of Diwali). Witnessing the power of USAID projects in rural (and even urban) areas. My wonderful Nepali co-workers. Yoga. Wandering the back streets of Kathmandu, which are full of life and old temples and charming people. Pretty much every conversation I ever had with old Nepali ladies at my Consular window.
6. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
I really enjoyed getting out on the weekends for hikes. It takes a little bit of planning but there are lots of good options. There are a number of nice resorts on the hills around Kathmandu that will get you out of the pollution - Namobuddha is my favorite. Pokhara is a nice escape, if touristy. My favorite tourist activity was to wander around the backstreets of Bhaktapur. Lots of outdoor adventure - mountain biking, trekking, rafting, canyoning, you name it.
7. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Tibetan furniture, Tibetan carpets, Tibetan handicrafts . . . a lot of Tibetan stuff. And some nice Nepali handicrafts too. Pashminas.
8. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
The people here are wonderful. I know people say that about a lot of places but it's really true about Nepal. You will be amazed at the kindness of strangers here. It's also a very beautiful country -- particularly outside of Kathmandu -- and inexpensive.
9. Can you save money?
Yes.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Of course.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Expectations.
3. But don't forget your:
Sense of adventure and willingness to learn new things and be open to new experiences.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Forget Kathmandu - Manjushree Thapa
5. Do you have any other comments?
This post can be challenging at times, particularly because it is isolating, and not everyone loves it. But a lot of people were very happy here.
