Kathmandu, Nepal Report of what it's like to live there - 04/20/14
Personal Experiences from Kathmandu, Nepal
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
I have lived in Europe, Central America and Mexico.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Washington, D.C. to Frankfurt, Frankfurt to Istanbul, Istanbul to Kathmandu
3. How long have you lived here?
Five months.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Government.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Amazing large spacious housing. My favorite house yet.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Most everything is available here and is pretty cheap if you get the local version. Household supplies are cheap but also flimsy cheap. Nice quality household goods are not available.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
LIQUIDS! Snacks, potato chips, salsa, soy sauce, apple cider vinegar, perfume, make-up, long shelf silk milk and tomato sauce, quinoa. I would not have bothered with olive oil, oatmeal, salt or sugar. The ones here are very good.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
No fast food which is a good thing, and about a dozen decent restaurants which are SUPER CHEAP. A nice night out with your spouse, with drinks and dessert and a good meal will cost about US$20 each. A regular meal is about US$7 at the nicer restaurants. You can eat here, and I mean an entire filling delicious meal, for 95 cents.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Some spiders and roaches. Not a problem really.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
I use government mail.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Very cheap but not very good. We clean our house ourselves; it is never clean enough.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
No. I have not seen a gym or workout studio. I have actually not seen any yoga studio in Kathmandu, which is surprising. If you thought you would come here to easily do yoga every day while looking at the Himalayas, you will be disappointed. You will be doing yoga tapes in your bedroom.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
I would not use them unless it was at one of the nice hotels.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
I think there is a Catholic Church, not sure of the rest.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Well.....not much for us since we just function inside American circles. But I have found that to ask for directions and things like that, it is so much better to have a little knowledge of Nepali.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Oh yes. Roads are crowded, sidewalks are minimal, and if they exist, they are broken and with lots of holes. There are ZERO street lights, so if you are walking at night, you run the risk of stepping in a hole. I have twisted my ankle twice here.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Only taxis, and only if you need them. They cost about US$1. There are no buses or trains.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
A cheap 4x4 automobile that you don't care about. It will get dinged and will get super dirty. No carjackings or things like that. You are better of buying a car here for US$1,000 and just selling it for US$800 when you leave. Do not bring a large expensive car. You won't be able to get through a lot of streets.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, in theory. It is fine for browsing the internet, but I have the best and costliest internet and I can't get Amazon Prime to work most times. Netflix works about 70% of the time. Worldlink is the best service. I bought a year or fast internet for about US$175 (not unlimited but consumable by GB) and it lasted about three months. Still pretty cheap though.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Get one here or bring an iPhone. You can easily get a chip for an iPhone and you will be able to make calls to the States super cheap.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No quarantines and plenty of very good and very cheap vets. My cat almost died here because the pollution was so bad. I desperately took him to a vet down the road and he has been fine ever since. I paid US$3.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Nope. None.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Yes and very needed. This is a very poor country.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
At work it is suit and tie, and in public you can be pretty casual.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
It is pretty safe here. For females, hiking alone has become dangerous, so if you are in a group you are fine. Driving here is dangerous. You will be hit or hit somebody almost guaranteed. Pretty scary.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
You will get sick here. The air will give you an upper respiratory infection almost as soon as you get here, and the food will make you sick. It is only a matter of time. There is ok healthcare here but if you are seriously ill or injured, you will have to be medevaced to another country.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Horrible. The air quality is prohibitive. If you think you will be waking up and seeing the mountains while you are drinking coffee, relishing in the beauty of the Himalayas, you will be very disappointed. This is the worst air pollution I have ever seen in my life. I am constantly sick, even my cat almost died from the air pollution.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Beautiful weather. Four seasons, which are pretty mild. It is not cold like most people think. I have really enjoyed the weather.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Most people send their kids to the Lincoln school.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
Not many. I know there are speech therapists and such.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Yes through the schools.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Huge expat community and pretty good morale. If you have chosen to live here, there must be some reason you are here and you are most often happy.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Going out to eat and going drinking in Thamel. That is it. It is the most boring city I have ever been in.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Great for families and singles. Couples will get bored here unless you are a couple who treks together. Let me say again, if you are not outdoorsy and do not LOVE trekking, you will be bored out of your mind in Kathmandu. The city shuts down at 8 PM, there are some bars but not many, and there are no parks, malls, clubs or theaters to take a nice walk in. My husband and I are so bored here.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
I am not sure. I don't see a lot of couples holding hands of any sort. It seems like PDAs are looked down upon, so gay PDAs might be shocking to people. That being said, my husband and I hold hands and kiss all the time, and we don't get any stares from people. It is my experience that the Nepali people are very kind and accepting.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
If you look like a Westerner, you will be stared at. That is about it.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
I have saved some money.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Nina's Cafe by the Embassy is the best place here. Also, Fire and Ice Pizzeria in Thamel is great. That is it. I have found absolutely nothing interesting to do here. Bored out of my mind.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Pashminas.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Saving money. If you like hiking and trekking, this is the place for you. But ONLY if you love these things. If you may or may not want to trek while you are here, Kathmandu is not for you. The weather is very temperate, very nice.
10. Can you save money?
Yes a lot. Very cheap and nothing much to spend your money on.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
That is was so dirty and polluted. I am so blown away by the filth that I don't have any desire to see anything else here. I don't want to see temples or monasteries because I know it will be just full of trash and driving to get anywhere brings me to tears. I wish I had known that this city is only for people who love trekking and camping and mountain biking. If you like these on occasion or don't like this, you will be bored to tears here.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Never again. I am counting the days to leave.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Expectation of Kathmandu being the place where you will finally find peace by doing yoga and meditating while basking in the beauty of the Himalayas. Nepal might be the place, but Kathmandu is not. Leave behind your high heels, they are impossible to wear in Kathmandu.
4. But don't forget your:
Air masks and air filters. Antibiotics too.
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
6. Do you have any other comments?
I really wanted to love it; I really did but I don't. Kathmandu was #1 on my list and I feel like a complete and total failure for hating Kathmandu, but I have found nothing beautiful here, nothing natural and green, and nothing peaceful. I cannot connect with the culture and have found nothing interesting to do. So I watch TV, eat out sometimes, and cry a lot. I have saved money though.
