Kathmandu, Nepal Report of what it's like to live there - 06/25/13
Personal Experiences from Kathmandu, Nepal
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
First expat experience.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Home base is in Washington DC. Common flights route through Bangkok, Doha, or New Delhi with total flight times being easily between 20-30 hours.
3. How long have you lived here?
1.5 years.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Government.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Embassy housing tends to be within a 30-minute walk to the chancery, and consists of houses with perhaps 9 apartments. Interiors are extremely spacious, and yards are a mix of sizes. If you're with a government organization, you will probably have a generator or inverter (a large battery system) for all the hours of load shedding you'll encounter. Commutes are between 5-15 minutes by car, and maybe 30 minutes by foot.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Groceries are very low in cost - especially produce at the local markets. Household supplies are reasonably priced at the local supermarket.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Microbrew Beer. You can pretty much get most other things here.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
KFC recently opened up -- which was a big hit for some people. There are plenty of restaurants that can serve food quickly, and even a home food delivery service (Foodmandu.com) that is extremely efficient and effective. Cost tends to be very affordable. Meals for two can be $10 USD at a modest restaurant or closer to $100 at the nicer hotels/restaurants.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
None, though leeches come out in the summer monsoon (in the grassy areas outside the city).
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Embassy mail.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Household help is extremely affordable; most U.S. Embassy personnel have someone to assist, either with cleaning, cooking, or driving, or all of the above.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Yes, the US Embassy has a small gym, the large hotels operate gyms that sell memberships, and there are private gyms throughout the city.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
I can't because I haven't used mine in 1.5 years. Very few places will take a credit card. There are some ATM machines around, but you use them at your own risk.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
I think so.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Yes - though I'm not sure of the cost.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
In Kathmandu, it can feel like everyone speaks English.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
There are almost no sidewalks; there are potholes that can go from a few inches deep to a few feet deep overnight; most roads are bumpier than any jeep track in the US; elevators are scarce (and so is the power to operate them) . . . . in short, it's a very dynamic environment. With that being said, you tend to go to a set location in Kathmandu, such as the embassy, or maybe the American Club, or someone's house - so if you can get in/out of a car, then you could be fine. Most expats don't just walk around in the city anyways, as you share the roads with tuk-tuks, buses, cars, and motorcycles.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
I've known people to take the buses and tuk-tuks, and they're okay as long as you don't mind crowded vehicles and strangers potentially sitting on your lap (not a joke). Taxis are available as well. You have to bargain with the taxis, but they are still affordable.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Bring something with 4WD if you want to leave town -- the roads are RUGGED here. Also bring something that you want scratched up. Motorcycles routinely tip into the side of my car at stops. This is the place to add character to your vehicle. Japanese vehicles can be fixed here, but the repairs tend to be pricey (for the area). Indian vehicles are much cheaper (in every sense) and can be repaired very affordably.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes - there are established options for cable internet, though the speed is not as advertised. You will be able to skype/facetime back to the US, though. Cost is maybe $50 per month. Fiber-optic options are also coming out now with promises of much greater speeds.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
You can probably buy an unlocked phone here, but we brought ours. Cell phone plans and data plans are affordable.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No.
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Pet care is available - though the vets don't have the depth or breadth of experience that many US vets do.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
There are a lot of NGO opportunities. Local firms tend to pay very low salaries.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Dress code at work is business to business casual. Public dress is all over the spectrum: Nepalis wearing traditional outfits, and trekkers wearing bizarre outfits (you have to see it). You can pretty much wear most things, though you are still in a conservative society.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
This city is safer than most in the US.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Air quality is my biggest concern, and medical care is available. There is a western health clinic in town, but I think medevacs are fairly common here. Medical care is not readily available (if at all) outside the city.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Very unhealthy. I'm sure many people think their city's air is polluted, a common theme in many places right now. . . . . However, I can say this has been the worst air quality I've ever experienced, and I've traveled in Asia, the Middle East, and South America. There is dust from all the road work the city is doing, pollution from diesel buses, and the smoke/smell/cloud of burning trash is almost always around. I'd recommend going almost anywhere other than Kathmandu if you have any respiratory issues. However, the air outside the city is fine - so if you don't plan on spending a lot of time in Kathmandu - no worries.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
The climate is mild - maybe 2 weeks of true winter weather. Spring tends to get warm, and summer monsoon season keeps temperatures quite moderate.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Huge - There is an amazingly large expat community in Kathmandu which creates a very fun and active social scene. It's quite common to have social committments every night of the week.
2. Morale among expats:
Varied, though generally high. I think the pollution and developing-world aspects tend to bother people the longer they are here, but most people have a good -- or even a great time.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
There is a great social scene in Kathmandu, and it is very easy to get plugged into it. There are many restaurant options, but not much is open past 10pm.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
This isn't western Europe, and there aren't parks, sidewalks, or even smoothly-paved roads in most areas of the city. That being said, if you enjoy going on self-structured/created adventures in the countryside, there are a lot of options. Also, household help is very affordable and widely utilized, which could help a lot of families. Singles and couples have a lot of options for activities, but the key is "active" . There isn't a ton of just meandering the city and maybe popping in somewhere for a cappucino.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Not entirely sure, but it seems okay. I haven't noticed anyone explicitly against gay/lesbian expats or locals, though it is a conservative culture.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
None.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Trekking, interacting with the uber-friendly Nepalis, biking, and just living the expat life in a wonderful place.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Anything to do with trails is great here. There's a fun Hash-House Harriers group, terrific hiking, and great mountain biking. Also, exploring the culture is fantastic. My wife and I have slept in Buddhist Monasteries, seen incredible cultural sites, and just really admire the country's beauty. The key is to get out of Kathmandu. A lot.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Lots of true hand-made crafts, small stools made of trash, Ghurka knives, wooden masks, unique paintings and textiles.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Kathmandu, and Nepal are quite cheap to live and travel in compared to most western economies. The outdoors is an obvious draw, with opportunities to trek (hike), camp, whitewater raft, bungee jump, mountain bike, etc. It's quite easy to get out of the city and into less populated areas where the air clears up and there is less traffic. Also, the city is extremely colorful - filled with culture exciting people from all over the world, and good restaurants.
11. Can you save money?
Absolutely. If you can't save here, there isn't any hope for you.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Absolutely!
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
road bike, low-clearance vehicle, and credit cards.
3. But don't forget your:
outdoors gear and camera.
4. Do you have any other comments?
Recommended for the adventurous and those unafraid of developing-world conditions.
