Yangon, Myanmar Report of what it's like to live there - 04/07/14
Personal Experiences from Yangon, Myanmar
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
We have also lived in N'Djamena, Brussels, Conakry, Harare, Quito, and Guatemala City.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Hawaii. Connections mostly via Taipei, Seoul, & Bangkok.
3. How long have you lived here?
1 year.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Military.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Golden Hill is close to the International School of Yangon & French school (Joseph Kessel) and only a 8-minute drive to the U.S. Embassy. The landlords seems to raise the rent drastically every year. There is a lake behind the U.S. Embassy. Most expats seem to live somewhere close to the lake if not in Golden Hill. U.S. Embassy Housing will be in a well-maintained house or an apartment with swimming pool. U.S. Embassy houses do not have pools. But the American club is a max of 20-minute commute for most and has a nice pool.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Groceries are quite high for western products. 8oz cheddar will cost about US$7, 8oz cream cheese cost US$5, box of UHT milk cost US$2. Send one of your housekeepers/helpers out for the produce, it will be cheaper.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Chocolate, sunscreen, ant bait, gifts for kids, brown sugar, pecans, pasta, brown rice, basket-ball net, gelatin (Jello), rubbing alcohol.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Pizza company has pizza (US$15 large), salad bar (US$5), & lasagna(US$6)...it's all good. The ice cream shop is believed to be owned by them as well an it is very good (US$2for a Sunday), pick your flavor. There are not really any fast food places in Yangon yet though.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Mosquitoes year round. No need for Malaria prophylaxis in Yangon though. There are people who will fumigate your property for US$25. This option worked out well for an evening outdoor party in the dry season. But the mosquitoes returned by morning time. Ants are everywhere!!! They call them "crazy ants." Bring ziplock bags to store pantry items in. They even got into my Velveeta cheese (processed American cheese) in the pantry.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
APO.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
US$200 a month for a maid (6 person family).
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
The gym at the Embassy is basic, but very good with lockers and showers. You never see more than 2 others in the gym...so it's a good option if you are with the Embassy. We checked out a rather small gym, new with fun looking classes in our neighborhood. It cost around US$200 a month. I have heard of much cheaper gyms though, but not in the Golden hill area.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Cash society.
5. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
That would be very useful, But rare is the expat who knows more than hello & thank you. Myanmar people love it when you say anything in their language. This is because they do not expect you to be able to and it is a pleasant surprise to them. They will pick up on your body language and many do speak at least a little English.
6. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Yes, but not impossible. A Myanmar friend at our church has a sports style wheelchair. He does very well but has no other option. The U.S. Embassy provides ramps and handicap parking to make it easier for those using wheelchairs. The main grocery store (city mart) has ramps and there would be NO problem going to the cafes and small shops in there. But other restaurants, clubs, cinema or events, may not have the necessities needed.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Taxis are cheap...don't bother with the city buses. They are safe but you will most certainly be the entertainment on the bus ride. There is a train that makes one big loop around the whole city. It is exciting for the tour for the first hour then it gets a little boring. It's a neat way to see the city though.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
They know how to fix pretty much anything here. But if you want it done right, bring a few parts with you if you think there might be a problem. 4X4 would be best as the roads are pretty busted with the rain we get here. But many locals drive little low to the ground cars and seem to do fine.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
We pay US$125 a month for the highest speed. The quality is still very slow; internet phone (Vonage) hardly ever works and Skype is good on some days and terrible on others.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
We did not bring a pet to post. Our gardener did give us a cat though and she received her vaccines an spay all for under US$100. They will even come and take care of most procedures at your home. The prices always seem reasonable. There are several vets to chose from. Your domestic help will watch your pet or check in on them for you. I have heard of a kennel/vet. I do not know much about it though.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
No, just volunteering.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Teaching English, donating rice and school supplies, making infant kits for maternity hospitals; there are so many opportunities if you are willing to work for free. It's so rewarding here.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Embassy is dress slacks/shirt/tie for men. Women also wear the same standard business attire you would see in the States at this Embassy. In public you will be more comfortable if your knees and shoulders are covered. Dress is very casual. Flip flops (especially during rainy season) will be your best friend if you can handle them. No shoes or socks are allowed at Buddhist monasteries and temples.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
No, Yangon is very safe. I doubt we will ever live in such a safe place again. We have no worries and allow our older kids to walk to friends' houses alone.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Japanese Encephalitis was a new vaccine we had to get. The Embassy also wants us to get the Rabies vaccine...but we declined. Apparently they do have rabid dogs in Yangon. They have many diseases here so get all the CDC recommended vaccines. Eat salads at reputable restaurants, don't eat the cold samosas on the street, make sure they are still burning your fingers. International SOS is a great clinic that can handle emergency and the minor things, but medevac to Bangkok if further care is needed. The Embassy has a nurse practitioner for staff and dependents. The hospitals in Yangon are not a comfortable place to even walk through as a visitor.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Moderate. There is a lot of vegetation in the city to help clean the air but there are so many cars and old buses and trucks that fume out clouds of smoke. You can't travel with your window down too often.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
It seems to be months of raining or months of dry. It is warm & humid during the rain (but not hot & steamy), and it is very hot during the dry months.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
There are several international schools in Yangon. Our experience is with the International School of Yangon (ISY). IT IS AN IB SCHOOL! This is the school recommended by the Embassy and if you are U.S. personnel, you will not be put on a wait-list. We do not recommend this school to any American teens in high school though. The work-load is that of a university student (or more-so). More than 50% of the high school students have tutoring every day.
A side note: more than 60% of the students are from somewhere in Asia. Asians have a priority to be challenged beyond the average grade level in order to get a superior education to the average student around the world. These teens do get into very good universities too. Last but not least on this subject...THERE IS A HOME SCHOOLING GROUP! Just ask around when you arrive. They do field trips together and activity days to bring the kids together for some socializing. There were not any home-schooled teens in this group currently though.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
I am almost certain if ISY does not already have provisions for kids using a wheelchair, they would make them for an incoming student. The work-load at this school can be very difficult, but it is a very nice, structured school. It is my understanding that US-MIL dependents who need scholastic assistance are not able to come to this post at this time.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
We have American friends with young children who are happy with their preschools. Nannies are often used here as well.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
There is Saturday soccer, Thursday cub scouts that girls also attend (currently just started), play groups for the younger ones, the American club has parties with jumping castles all the time. The American club also has swim lessons twice a week and offers baseball and tennis. There is equestrian, dance and TONS OF MUSIC CLASSES from any instrument to singing. Other sports are mostly offered through the schools.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
We have two of our children at the French school...there are many French here with "Total". There are also many Australians and a nice Australian club. The U.S. Embassy is medium in size. There seems to be a large and growing number of expats in Yangon. Most seem to be happy here. But no one ever seems to be sad to leave either. It is a nice 2-year post.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
English language new release movies at the cinema, tea time, Barbeque for non-members on Sunday's at the Australian club, canoe, swim, & tennis at the American club, biking club, photography group, nice bars, restaurants and parks, shopping at the markets.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Great for families - weekend sports & events, holiday events, English movies @ Cinema.
Great for singles - bars, churches, hash meets, party every weekend somewhere.
Great for couples - Markets, day trips, quality restaurants, cinema, pretty parks.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
I believe it is. There does not seem to be much thought on the matter and we have friends who are gay. Everyone is friendly with everyone. We are unaware of specific clubs though.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Within Yangon, it seems rare, but we have indeed heard of problems between Buddhist and Muslims within the city. It is more of a problem outside of the capital though in more remote areas. Although it seems these attacks are sometimes coupled with political reasons.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Traveling to the beach, riding elephants, monkeys hiking along with us. Seeing the amazing statues and monuments ancient and new. In Yangon... the markets, little tea shops and seeing the general way of life of the city people.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Cinema, "Pizza Company" is a new restaurant with US$15 large pizza (our family thinks it's the best pizza in Yangon), any of the pagoda's are amazing and fun to see, Favorite place? Bogyoke market...pronounced BO-JOE. Bogyoke has everything and you could easily spend all day there. It is fun for the whole family. Find a recommended seamstress, pick out some pictures online and have her make clothes for you for amazing prices.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Although we are not big fans of it... lacquer-ware is very popular, woodwork, gems/jewelry, pearls, antiques, carved mother-of-pearl, long skirts...so many things!
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
The people are the friendliest you will ever meet. Things are still done as they have been done for several years. The monks are everywhere and there is beautiful jungle landscape between the buildings.
10. Can you save money?
Yes, if you are not eating out and/or buying western products at the shops.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
The locals don't care much for desserts and candy. The kids much prefer school supplies, a toy or a savory food. I also wish I knew that ISY's students are at a higher level than most American students and that the high school is IB. I would have looked into ways to change our assignment. Our teens who have always been in advanced classes, making only A's, are now stressed and making B's & C's.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
No, only because my children are not happy with their schools here. It is actually a fun friendly and beautiful place to live.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Winter wear, photo books, anything that might get damaged by humidity or a leak.
4. But don't forget your:
Good mop and broom, ant bait, good quality umbrellas, extra flip flops, favorite drinks, makeup, fabric to give to a good seamstress.
5. Do you have any other comments?
French school in Yangon: Called "Ecole Joseph Kessel". If your children already speak French, then this would be another option for schools. It is currently a school of about 60 students near ISY (Golden hill neighborhood). It is owned by French company "Total". My children have brought their level of French up from mediocre back to fluent in 5 months. There are other expat kids attending along with the kids of Total employees. A new director (Principal) will come for 2014-1015 school year. A little side information about French schools though is that bullying is a part of growing up. It is tolerated at this school. A new director could change this, but our years of experience with different French schools tells us that it won't change. That said, our kids are very happy with their attentive, kind teachers and do have friends at the school.
