Yangon, Myanmar Report of what it's like to live there - 02/02/14
Personal Experiences from Yangon, Myanmar
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
First long-term experience overseas. I completed several 2 or 3-months postings in Europe.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
East Coast of the U.S. Trip is about 20-24 hours. Usually it's a long flight to Tokyo or Hong Kong and then another flight to Bangkok. Recently there is a flight from East Coast to Seoul to Yangon on Korean Air.
3. How long have you lived here?
Nearly two years.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Educator.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Golden Valleys is popular and so are parts of downtown. About 20-30 minutes commute-time - downtown is getting more popular because it's cheaper. Expat housing has skyrocketed, into a few thousand dollars a month for a multi-room apartment or house.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Very cheap is shopping at local markets. A kilo of tomatoes goes for 50 cents (US). One higher-end grocery store with more imported product, looking closer to Western prices there.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Extra clothes. Won't find Western style clothes here that will fit Western-sized people.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
No Western fast food chains. A few imitation types popping up. Okay, but still can't get a great burger. Coffee circles is decent for coffee. You'll have to accept waiting until you get to Bangkok to satisfy your Western food cravings.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Mosquitos, especially in January-April. Some of the bug sprays used here are not very healthy or environmentally friendly.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
It's best to send out of Bangkok but I receive mail fine now.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Full time maid US$80-100 a month (8 hour days). Live at home nanny US$200-300 a month.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Very few machines, haven't tried using them yet. Virtually 100% cash only society.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
I know for sure there are English Church services. Not sure about other religions.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Very little though a few words help. Most older Myanmar people and younger know basic English. Many signs are in English.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Absolutely. Holes in sidewalks, no ramps, few elevators.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Yes, buses and trains are not comfortable and crowded. Taxis are cheap (30 minutes cross town for US$2-4).
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Lots of pot holes. Lots of Japanese here so those would be easier to fix. Do not worry about carjackings. Unless you're a diplomat, it's difficult to purchase a car (need Myanmar person to sign for it). Most people hire a driver.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, about US$40-50 a month. High speed in theory. Connection can vary and be sporadic.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
No, plus you won't want to work for local salary. Best bet is to work for a Western company.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Walk up to any local school, orphanage and you can find something. Many of my friends tutor monks or local staff (custodians etc) in English. Speaking English is a great asset for the local population. Also many NGOs here that can facilitate or give ideas.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Quite conservative in public. Women should not bare shoulder or knees. Most locals where traditional longyis (women) and men wear baso (sort of like a wrap skirt).
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
No. Very safe to walk at night. Police do not hassle expats. Probably safer than any place I have ever been.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
There is an SOS clinic and a couple of hospital clinics but anything of a serious nature warrants a trip to Bangkok.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Moderate and slowly becoming unhealthy. The number of cars has increased exponentially in the past couple of years and during dry season, field and garbage burning adds to the pollution. However, on hazy mornings, you can still see a beautiful blue sky.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
3 seasons:
May-September: Monsoon with the worst being June-August. At peak, it will rain all day every day. May and September are shoulders.
October- February: Dry and hot. After the rainy season, it keeps getting cooler until winter peaks in January with daily temps around 80F. Clear skies every day.
March-April: Very hot and incredibly humid. Regularly about 105F. It's not fun to be outside. Clear skies.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
International School Yangon (ISY)- is best. Best facilities. Great library. Good teachers. 50/50 expats/locals.
Yangon International School (YIS)- traditionally seen as #2 but sliding lately. Good teachers, but space is way overcrowded and facilities are poor for the number of students (play space, library etc.) 90/10 locals/expats ratio (expats are all Korean, Thai, no We stern students).
International School Myanmar (ISM)- I have heard decent things about this school. High teacher turnover, it's mainly a money-making operation but still better than many smaller schools.
Also have MISY, Horizon, Network and smattering of other small schools developing. No IB school.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
Very little. No school to my knowledge has programs for special education. There is one Western trained child psychologist in Yangon. No occupational therapists. One part-time speech pathologist.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Through schools.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
A couple thousand people in Yangon, with French, British, and Americans being largest. High morale.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Bars, restaurants, parks, beer stations, outings.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Great for everyone. Small expat community but because so few expat hang-out places, it's easy to meet people because everyone goes to same places.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Technically homosexuality is illegal. I know of a few and it seems okay, but do not be open about it.
You will see many women holding hands with other women and vice versa for men but that is strictly a cultural thing and nothing to do with homosexuality.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Ethnic violence with Muslims. Tensions simmered down but attitudes against Muslims persist. Though if you are a foreigner you are immune. There is a huge double standard for foreigners and you will be treated much better than local Myanmar people.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
The city is really more of a smash up of many small villages and there is an incredible amount of rural life for an urban area. People are extremely friendly, and there are some great travel options. The lack of development is astounding and refreshing. If you are partial to first-world living, this is not for you.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Weekend trips to beach or villages around. Running with hash group in rural areas. Wandering downtown. Few parks.
8. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Saving money, culture, cheap of food, great tourism, and lack of winter.
9. Can you save money?
Yes. Depends on how much you want to spend but with maids around US$100 a month and groceries so cheap, you can easily get by on US$500 a month. A custom-tailored 3-piece suit goes for US$80! If you're spending more than US$1,000 a month you must be burning it.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Absolutely. Such a friendly country, so safe, quite untouched by Western world compared to rest of SE Asia but changing quickly.
2. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
Burma VJ: Reporting from a Closed Country
The Lady
3. Do you have any other comments?
I love this place and virtually everyone I know loves it too. You can live like a king/queen. If you need your Western products and food, perhaps it's not the best location, but if you like being confused by weird logic, enjoy a rich culture, and want an adventure, you must absolutely come here.
