Casablanca, Morocco Report of what it's like to live there - 04/04/10
Personal Experiences from Casablanca, Morocco
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
5th- previously in Bermuda, Wales, Spain, and Algeria.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Considering the fact that Morocco is in Africa, you can't ask for a better commute to the US.There is a direct non-stop flight to NY JFK from Casablanca almost every day of the week. The flight takes off from JFK around 7 pm and lands in Casa the next morning. It couldn't be any easier. I've been back to the US 4 times in my tour and have never done anything but the NY JFK flight. Some people go through Paris, but that airport presents its own challenges.
3. How long have you lived here?
2008-present.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Assigned to US Consulate.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Fabulous large villas with walled in yards (I even have a pool!) outside of the city, large apartments inside the city. The villas can be upwards of 40 minutes from work during rush hour traffic, but my commute is right long the Atlantic and I don't mind the drive. Apartments are usually within walking distance to the Consulate. We live very well here.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Meat can get expensive, but produce is cheap and of great quality. Clementines and strawberries by the truckload, delicious and dirt cheap. No need to bleach the veggies here. We are very lucky to have access to the commissary in Rabat for the US products you just can't do without, but the prices are really high, so be prepared.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Seasonal items like Valentine's Day and Easter and Halloween stuff - random gifts to give for kid's parties- toy stores here are really expensive. Also stamps of various denominations - the DPO doesn't sell them. Pool equipment, a trampoline, playground for the kids.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
McDonald's, KFC, TGIF - prices are the same. Also great local restaurants.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
The occasional cockroach or ant in the homes, but other than that, nothing too bothersome.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
DPO and pouch. It takes week or 2 to get back and forth.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Plentiful and reasonably priced. Might not speak much english though.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There are gyms all over the city. Some can be expensive. Plenty of places to run along the ocean.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
ATMS and credit cards can be used here without trouble.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
I believe so.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
TV is cheap here. You can get a satellite installed for about $70 for the decoder and the satellite - there are hundreds of channels to choose from. AFN decoders can be rented from Rabat or you can just buy your own.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
French will get you most places, but some of the less educated people might only speak Arabic, and Moroccan Arabic at that. If you only spoke english it might be difficult to get around.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Plenty. Sidewalks are narrow, broken, no ramps. Not to mention the Consulate is not handicapped accessible.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Trains - excellent and cheap. Taxis - run down but cheap. Buses - way crowded and not used by post personnel. Taxis are a much better option to busses anyways.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Sedans, SUVs, family vans, anything is fine. There's no need for SUVs here, but many people have them. The roads are of good quality, it's just the drivers that are a bit crazy. Your vehicle might get a bit dinged up while you're here, so don't bring anything precious. Toyota, Honda, European models all have dealerships here.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
The internet isn't bad. I pay about $25 per month for internet that allows me to download a movie off iTunes in about 4 hours. I've had a few problems here and there but overall I can't complain. Skype works great. There aren't any sites blocked by the host country.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Post issues blackberries to direct hire Americans, but there are numerous phone companies that offer various plans if you needed a phone for someone else.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No.
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
There is an awesome English speaking vet who makes house calls. And he's cheap. Can't speak about kennels but you would probably be better off having someone come to your house to watch your animal vice taking them to a kennel. The weather here is such that you could leave a dog outside year round if you wanted. The yards are perfect for pets.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
I think it would be tough, but I don't know for certain.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
You can dress here as you would in the US, no need to cover up like in the Gulf countries.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
I think the previous post reports gave Casablanca a bad rap. There's no serious violent crime to speak of, and aside from the occasional purse snatching here and there, it's no different than living in any large city, just watch your back.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
The occasional stomach bug is present, if you aren't careful where you eat. Medical quality in Casablanca and Rabat is pretty good, but I wouldn't want to get sick or injured out in the boonies. Rabat has a nurse health practitioner and Casa has a local nurse.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Fine - we are on the ocean and get the sea breeze. I have never had pollution concerns here.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Awesome. One of the best parts of being here.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Casa American School has an excellent reputation and I wouldn't think of putting my kids anywhere else. The teachers there are true educators and have a great amount of experience. I have been very happy there. The school is about 95% Moroccan because many wealthy Moroccans send their kids there. The school does not provide transportation, so the Consulate brings the kids to and from school.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
Contact the school first, but CAS has a special ed coordinator and a school psychologist. In the community, however, there are very limited resources for OT, PT and Speech, you'd really have to do some checking. Overall the school has been very good in accomodating my son's mild special needs.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
I think almost all the local preschools close at lunch and send the kids home, so if you are using the preschool as "daycare" you would be better off just getting a nanny at home. If you have a stay at home spouse and want your kid to get a preschool experience, there are preschools here (all in French, I think) that are affordable alternatives to Casa American School.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
There is a kiddie gym called Mon Club that has gymnastics and karate classes for kids. It'sbit expensive but is modern and well equipped.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Mostly private business types, not as large as Rabat.
2. Morale among expats:
Since Casablanca is a small post, the morale can fluctuate greatly based off the personalities involved. Right not we have a good bunch, so we're happy.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
The corniche is lined with clubs and restaurants and cafes. The CG residence has a pool and BBQ area that can be used by post personnel and is a great place to gather in the summer.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
I've heard people say Casa is not a family post but I disagree. If you live in a villa you will probably have a decent yard for your child to play in. There are places to take the kids, you just have to look around a bit. While it's true that there aren't as many kids here as in Rabat, it's a small post, so that's the nature of the beast. Rabat is only an hour or so away and you can always join in on their CLO activities. There are decent restaurants here, a nice tapas bar, plenty of night time activities.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
While there may be no gay bars around, Marrakesh supposedly is somewhat gay-friendly.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
None that I have seen.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Awesome trips to the desert, incredibly warm and friendly people.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Travel, eat, shop, and when you get tired of Morocco, you can hop a cheap short flight to Europe.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Metal and glass lamps, pottery, embroidered tablecloths.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Where can I start? The weather is to die for. Not too cold in winter, never gets too hot in summer. It will average in the 70s throughout the summer. Inland it's much hotter, but since Casablanca is on the Atlantic, we get the cool Atlantic breezes. Tons of places in country to visit, and it's a very diverse country - deserts, forests, snow covered mountains, all within a day's drive. The food is phenomenal. Great shopping. Easy access to Europe - and the list goes on.
11. Can you save money?
I did.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
In a heartbeat. I wish I could stay here longer.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
ideas that Morocco is the Paris of North Africa. It's a big dirty city and has all the challenges that come with living in a big dirty city. But the people are great, the weather is fantastic, and the food is lovely.
3. But don't forget your:
sled. Sleds work equally well on sand and snow and you can see both in the same day here.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
The Caliph's House, Tahir Shah
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
The movie Casablanca has very little to do with the city as it is today. It wasn't even filmed here. No doubt it's a classic, but has nothing to do with this post.
6. Do you have any other comments?
I love it here, maybe more so than I should, so I hope this isn't too biased. But some of the other post reports painted Casa in a bad light, so I wanted to present the other side.