Casablanca, Morocco Report of what it's like to live there - 03/06/08
Personal Experiences from Casablanca, Morocco
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No. I have also lived in Harare, Addis Ababa, Khartoum, and Luanda.
2. How long have you lived here?
2 years.
3. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
I work for the U.S. Government.
4. Travel time and best routes to this city from Europe or the US:
Royal Air Maroc flies non-stop from New York/JFK in about seven hours, without any delays or mechanical problems. Air France offers 4-5 flights a day from Paris with connections to the U.S. There are many discount airlines that fly to Casablanca from many European cities as well, including Jet4you, EasyJet, and Click Air.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Large and spacious apartments near the Consulate for singles or married employees and villas with small yards near the ocean for employees with families. Shanty towns exist throughout the city, even in the nicer parts of town. Most families in villas live within a short walk to a shanty town.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
You can find anything you need in Casablanca including two pork butchers. Prices are generally much higher than the U.S. Diplomats can apply for reimbursment of the 20 percent VAT.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Between the fancy shops in Casablanca and the use of the APO, you can get anything you need. The well-stocked commissary in Rabat can also special order most things from the U.S.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
KFC, Pizza Hut and McDonalds have several locations in the city. Casablanca also has excellent Sushi, Lebanesse, Thai, Indian, French, Spanish and Italian Food. There is also the overated Rick's Cafe.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Use the APO in Rabat.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Maids, nannies and gardeners cost anywhere from 10-20 Euros a day.
3. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Credit Cards and ATMs can be used throughout the city. Rates are usually poor for these services.
4. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Yes.
5. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
You can pick up an IHT for 2 Euros. 'Black Market' TV is available for a small initial set up fee and will get you CNN, BBC, CNBC, and lots of movie channels in English
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
You will need some basic French or Moroccan Arabic to navigate around the city.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Someone with a physical disability should think long and hard before coming to Casablanca.
Transportation:
1. Do you drive on the right hand side of the road or the left?
Right, like the U.S.
2. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Many people take the train to Rabat, Marrakesh, and Fez. Local petit taxis are affordable, but often do not have working seatbelts.
3. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Its a fine balance between feeling safe and navigating traffic in the city. Personally, I would opt for a larger, safer car or SUV. Most car brands have an authorized dealer in the city. One should expect vehicles to have several scrapes and bumps before you leave, but there are tons of bodyshops in the city willing to fix your dents. Carjackings and break-ins are almost unheard of, espicially if you remember to tip the guardians who watch your car when you pop into a store.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
For anywhere from US$40-100 a month you can get unlimited ADSL service.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Maroc Telecom, Meditel, and Wana all offer cell phone service ranging from monthly plans to minutes to go.
3. What is the best way to make phone calls back home?
Skype or Vonage.
Pets:
1. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
There are several vets and kennels in the city for both dogs and cats.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Unless you speak French and/or Moroccan Arabic there are few decent job opportunities. Anyone willing to teach English should be able to find part-time work for 10-20 Euros an hour.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Mostly business casual but some events do require suits. On one hand, Casablanca is a chic city and you will see the latest fashions on display in Maarif. On the other hand, its not uncommon to see women veiled.
Health & Safety:
1. Pollution index (Good, Moderate, Unhealthy, or Very Unhealthy)?
Moderate most days; unhealthy some days.
2. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
There are serious personal and terrorism security concerns in Casablanca. At one point, nearly a fourth of all women associated with the Consulate had been victims of a mugging or attempted mugging. These muggers have often presented and threatened to use knifes to gain valuables. The use of a moped to snatch a purse is also a concern.
In terms of terrorism, the Consulate was closed for seven weeks in the Spring of 2007 due to security concerns associated with two suicide bombings in the area in March. Government of Morocco authorities seem committed to stopping these people, but regional terrorism issues are a concern.
3. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Medical care can be very good and medical staff are generally well-trained. Its not uncommon to get sick with a stomach ailment and people complain of respriatory problems.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Pretty ideal. Winters are mild with highs of 60-70 (F) degrees not uncommon even in January and February. Summers can be hot. In the past, some people have complained about the rain.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Two American-based curriculum schools offer instruction in English, the Casablanca American School and the George Washington Academy. CAS is an accredited facility while GWA is not. Generally speaking, consulate staff have been pleased with the academic approach at CAS. Some families have expressed concern about social pressures at CAS. A few years ago, several employees removed their kids from CAS due to harassment at the school. Since then, a new director has come in and tried to improve the social dynamics. At GWA, some families have complained that math and science instruction are not on par with U.S. standards.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
Beginning in elementary school, CAS can work with most special needs.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Excellent nannies can be hired full-time for 250-350 Euros per month. Several excellent French-based preschools can be found in the city and tutition ranges from 120-160 Euros per month, depending on whether your kid goes half-day (9-12pm) or full-day (9-12pm, 2-5pm).
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
There is a small diplomatic corps in the city serving several consulates. There are also some American businessmen and women as well as lots of French expats.
2. Morale among expats:
Generally speaking, morale ranges from indifference to poor.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
There are a few representational events in Casablanca, but you should expect to attend several events in Rabat. Several galleries and Cultural Centers have events in French throughout the year. For English speakers, there are few events and most can be found at the Churchill Club.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Casablanca is often described as a big city without the benefits of a big city. Crime is high, pollution is bad, and traffic is terrible. On a positive note the restuarants are fantastic. Families often complain of how little there is to do for kids.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
I have heard but cannot confirm that the city, despite its conservative Arab culture has a discrete gay scene.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Gender harassment is a huge problem and women should expect to be harassed on a daily basis. I have heard of significant racial harassment directed towards West Africans living in the city.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
In Casablanca...walk along the Corniche with everyone else on the weekend, tour the Grand Mosque, shop at all of the fancy French stores, explore Habous, eat out at a restuarant.
Getting out of Casablanca for a few hours or a few days can be a fantastic expierence. There are decent beaches within 30 minutes of the city. Coastal cities such as El Jadida and Essaouira are unique places to visit. Marrakesh, Fez and Tangier can all be reached in 2-4 hours on new 4-lane highways. Families often drive 90 minutes to Rabat to go to the Zoo or play at the American Club playground.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Rugs, lanterns, fabric, furniture, brass, pottery.
9. Can you save money?
Between the high prices for food and clothes and the need to get out of the city, it's hard to save money. The Moroccan Dirham is pegged to the Euro and the US$-Euro rate isn't doing us any favors at the moment.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
While I would entertain another posting in Morocco, I would not come back to Casablanca.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Skimpy clothes unless you enjoy constant harassment.
3. But don't forget your:
Sense of humor, willingness to explore the country, and ability to find fun and interesting things to do.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Paul Bowles.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Paul Bowles.
6. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
Lots of movies are filmed in/around Casablanca and most people will find an opportunity to be in a movie themselves. Otherwise, you should watch 'Casablanca' just for the memories.
