Casablanca, Morocco Report of what it's like to live there - 07/17/14
Personal Experiences from Casablanca, Morocco
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
First time overseas.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
NY, about 13-14 hours: 3 hrs to Paris, 2-3 hr layover, 7-8 hr flight to JFK.
3. How long have you lived here?
1.5 years out of 2
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
US government, Foreign Service spouse.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Two sets of housing:
1) apartments downtown for singles/young couples, 5-10 min walk to the consulate, lots of restaurants, grocery stores within 10-15 min walk. Neighbors tend to be wealthier Moroccans who seem confused about apartment living (want you to be quiet but have no problems having a party until 1 am).
2) houses in one of the suburbs near the beach for families with school-aged children, 30-45 min drive
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Local produce is fantastic and super cheap (Moroccan government subsidized). Wash thoroughly, but no bleach necessary. Bulk goods (rice, bread, flour, etc) are also cheap. Seafood is very good and relatively cheap and meats (beef, chicken, lamb, turkey) are available from a number of places. Despite being a Muslim country, you can still find pork sausage/hams in a few French/Italian specialty shops. Processed foods and household supplies are on par/more expensive than US.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Baking supplies. ECA in Rabat can special order beers and wine and has other American items, but is expensive. Most groceries can be ordered through Amazon with minimal effort. Can also put in orders with the Marines to purchase stuff from the Navy Commissary in Rota, Spain, during their monthly trips (if there is room).
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Fast-food: McD, KFC, BK, Pizza Hut, Dominos, Starbucks.
Restaurants: mostly French and Italian. Spanish, Indian, Thai, and Chinese also available. Reasonably priced.
Cafes: Lots, but definitely a male-dominated space. Most have a few sandwiches, pastas, kababs, or pizzas.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
In the residences, ants and roaches. Some mosquitos/flies, but not bad.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
DPO and pouch. DPO usually takes 3-4 weeks. Pouch can take 2-3 months.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Consulate has a list of housekeepers and nannies. Very reasonable. Most housekeepers will clean, shop, and cook. Ours even helped us unpack when we moved into our apartment, bossed the movers around for us, and organized the furniture. A true housekeeper!
3. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Cash economy. Consulate has a cashier to cash checks. I've used ATMs without any problems, several downtown near the consulate.
4. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Having basic French (FAST course at least) is a must. There is very little English spoken and even less understood (you will get blank stares and heads nodding "yes"). If you can get the local Moroccan Arabic dialect (Darija) even better, but it's very difficult and nothing like standard Arabic.
5. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Yes. Sidewalks are often narrow, in poor condition, and have cars parked on them. Most elevators in the apartments are very small and would have trouble fitting a wheel chair. The consulate itself lacks any elevator, despite having multiple floors (basement, ground, 2nd).
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Trains are pretty good around Morocco. We've taken it to Fes and Marrakech ($35-40/person/1st class). We are not allowed to take the city buses. Small taxis can be adventure (can hold multiple fares), but just make sure they use the meter.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
We have a medium-sized SUV. Glad we have something a bit larger/higher up as driving in the city is a nightmare due to traffic and Moroccan drivers. We only use the car when we're leaving the city. Apartments have parking garages below ground. Basic repairs can be conducted at the Embassy motorpool in Rabat (~1-1.5 hours north).
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, $50/month. Fairly reliable in the apartments. Depending on the day/time, it can sometimes stream Netflix/Hulu.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Consulate supplied phones for employees. I think a few people have cell phones with local carriers.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
Nope. There is a very good vet who speaks some English (took care of our sick kitty).
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
There are a handful of American/English speaking schools that someone with an education background could possibly work. Unless you speak some French, not much else.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
We've had trips to clean up local schools, beach cleanups, and Dar America (the PD space) always needs volunteers to help with programs.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Business casual. About 50% of Moroccan women cover their heads. Western women are not expected to.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Petty crime is very high. Pickpockets and snatch/grab are common (even in the nice areas). Certain areas of town muggings are more frequent (usually with knives, no guns).
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Tap water in Casa is generally safe, but can have an off-taste. Filters are installed at all residences and bottled water is available at stores. Tap water is not safe in other parts of the country. Private hospitals are good, but for anything major, medevac to London/US.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Moderate to Unhealthy - car pollution, pollen, and dust can all be very high at times. Thankfully there is usually a nice breeze from the ocean to help clear it out.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Mediterranean climate. summer high's in the mid/upper 80s, low's in the mid 60's. Winter high's in the upper 50s, low's in the low 40s. Warm/dry but humid summers, cool wet winters with rain from Nov/Dec to Mar/Apr. Spring and Fall are beautiful.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
There are two schools, George Washington Academy and Casa American School. Currently all consulate children go to GWA. No personal experience.
2. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
GWA has several programs.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Small-medium: outside of the Consulate community, it's mostly teachers at the various American schools. Morale varies, but tends towards the negative. Post had 2 or 3 curtailments in the year before we arrived.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Casa is fairly limited on the social scene. Fortunately, we have a pretty good group of people at post so there are frequent get-togethers. The CG's residence also has a pool, bbq, and tennis court available for the Consulate community. It's also one of the few spots with green space that's safe for children.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Families: Maybe. I think the schools are decent, but there's not a lot for school-aged children/families to do in Casa outside of the beach and mall.
Singles: No. Most single Americans would have difficultly meeting someone here. Women would have more success than men due to Moroccan cultural norms. There are a handful of clubs on the corniche, but not much else (our Marines are fairly bored).
Couples: Yes. Lots of restaurants, lots of travel opportunities.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
No. As with most Muslim countries, it's illegal to be gay in Morocco. Moroccans can be jailed for being openly gay.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Race does not seem to be a problem, as Morocco is fairly diverse amongst it's own population. For religion, it's illegal to prosteltize in Morocco, as Islam is the official religion and all Moroccans are by default Muslim (with the exception of the small, but sizable Jewish population). However, Morocco makes an exception for foreigners with a few churches in Casa.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Having lunch with a random Berber family in the Mid-Atlas, our housekeeper (she's awesome!), couscous Fridays.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Shopping in the habbous - French designed "souk", you can get good deals here as very few tourists come through.
Seeing the Hassan II Mosque.
Eating at Rick's.
Water park (especially during Ramadan).
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Moroccan rugs, woodcrafts, ceramics, metal-work, hand-made furniture, argan oil products. Lots of opportunities for buying hand-made items. Avoid buying in big touristy places like Marrakech and Fes (unless you are recommended to a specific shop by someone from post). Prices for hand-made items are always negotiable (the co-ops are the one place they aren't).
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Travel. It's super easy to get around Morocco thanks to newly constructed expressways and trains. Also, very easy/affordable to fly to Europe out of Casa. Weather is wonderful. Food is fantastic.
10. Can you save money?
If you eat in and do not travel, you could save a lot of money. However, we found traveling out of Casa for a long weekend every 1-2 months a necessity for mental health.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
Wish I had known it was a big, dirty, crowded city with no real culture. The beaches in town are not nice and tend to be very crowded and male dominated. There is a lack of clean, safe, outdoor space.
The rest of Morocco is wonderful and a tour in Rabat would be very different.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes, but I would have very different expectations. The travel opportunities were worth it. Morocco is a wonderful country to visit for a few weeks, but two years was long enough living in Casa.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Sense of western logic/fairness, winter clothes.
4. But don't forget your:
Sense of humor/absurdity, eating pants, weekend travel bag, golf clubs (very nice/affordable courses throughout Morocco).
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
NOT Casablanca.
