Casablanca, Morocco Report of what it's like to live there - 05/01/14
Personal Experiences from Casablanca, Morocco
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Yes, but husband has lived abroad extensively.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
West Coast. It's 3 hours to Paris, then another 12 hours.
3. How long have you lived here?
1 year.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Spouse works at the U.S. Consulate.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Two options: big apartments near the Consulate (walkable) or villas near the ocean in urban suburbs (commute is 20-40 minutes depending on traffic). All are fairly old with insect issues and not so great construction.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Groceries seem relatively on par with the U.S., though if you go to the souk markets you can get loads of vegetables and fruits for cheap (and good quality). The health food store chain La Vie Claire (French) is fairly astronomical. Les Domaines ('the King's Market) has Moroccan dairy (probably organic) and decent produce at a low cost. Some American goods. The ECA in Rabat has American stuff.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
More pantry goods like maple syrup and such. Gardening tools, as most of the quality here is very poor. Some outdoor furniture because, again, poor quality and expensive.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Fast food: McDonald's, Pizza Hut, Starbucks, Burger King, Cinnabon. Restaurants: an OK range from Moroccan to Asian to Indian. Don't expect very high quality and you won't be disappointed.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Ants, mosquitos, roaches.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
DPO.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Very available and there is a listing at the Consulate. We pay a bit higher than the going rate but it's still not high, US$25-$40/day depending on if childcare is also involved. Many of the ladies clean (extremely well), cook, and shop for groceries.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Yes, pretty expensive though. Most people run on a treadmill at home or on the corniche. There's a yoga studio near the Consulate that some people frequent. There are some really nice sports clubs on the corniche with private beaches but again - expensive.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Using credit cards is hit or miss; plan to use cash. Most people cash checks at the Consulate.
5. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
YOU NEED AT LEAST FRENCH. Can't stress this enough. Don't expect people to speak English. Darija is nice and you'll be somewhat revered if you can manage to get by a bit but French is key.
6. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Yes - sidewalks are broken up, narrow. Consulate has nothing wheelchair-accessible.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
The tram is reliable, safe, and cheap, but has limited access/service. Red taxis are cheap enough; make sure you ask them to turn on the meter. Don't take the bus. Most people drive their own cars.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Most cars can be serviced here.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes - about US$50/month. It's semi-reliable depending on your residence.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
We use work blackberrys and have a local cell phone (Meditel). It's ok, not great service.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No quarantine. A good, English-speaking vet.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Sort of - you must have French, though.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Formal/business casual.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Don't wear a necklace if you're out and about - chances are it will be ripped off your neck. The more than occasional protest is typically peaceful but you'll want to avoid certain areas. Be more wary on days there's a soccer match. The tram is fine but skip the buses; most people drive themselves. Women alone need to be careful; there have been accounts of attacks on single women by other women, and sometimes women will be harassed/followed by local men.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Medical care is OK I guess; private doctors are recommended by the Health Unit. The local pediatrician speaks fluent English and is American Board certified. But I would never want to get in a serious car accident here or have a serious condition. For any real health issues (or for maternity care) you are Medevaced to London or the States. The RSO is currently stationed in Rabat and comes to Casa twice a month or so and this is a real boon that cannot be understated.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Moderate to occasionally unhealthy. Lots of pollution from cars, regular trash-burning, but then again there is that breeze ...
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Many would liken Casablanca to Southern California. You will get some cold and rainy days in the winter but there's also a lot of sun. March in particular is very nice -- brisk, fresh, everything is green. Summers are hot but not unbearably so. There's often some morning and late afternoon fog.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
The consulate is affiliated with two schools: Casablanca American School and George Washington Academy. Currently all consulate kids attend the latter.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Yes - there are creches, which run the gamut in price and what you're looking for (all in French). Most people with small kids who work have a nanny.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
A few kids' gyms and through the schools.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
A goodly amount; at the Consulate, about 20 American officers plus their families (maybe 30+ in total currently). Morale wildly varies. Right now there is an undercurrent of dissatisfaction, mostly with the general reality of what it's like to live here, but there is a segment that really loves it. Pretty typical I'd imagine.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Restaurants and bars are pretty much it.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
I think singles and childless couple have it the best here -- there are bars, restaurants, etc., though I can't speak to the dating scene myself. Kids are welcome mostly everywhere in restaurants BUT there is a serious dearth of clean parks and outdoor space. There are some activities if you hunt them down -- kid gyms, a water park, surfing lessons, stuff through the schools -- but it's certainly not easy. Most parents would say there aren't a ton of things for kids to do here.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Not really, though there are rumors of a 'scene'; it's not very overt.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Yes - there is racism toward Africans and consequently African Americans. Definitely class distinctions between Berbers/Arabs.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Proximity to Europe is great, especially if you can get direct flights. Exploring the rest of the country helps with the reality of living in Casa.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Getting out of the city is key, even just 15 minutes down the coast. If you're into Moroccan goods, there are lots of things to buy at the habbous. You can run around the track at GWA with your government ID which is pleasant. Villa Mirador has a play structure for kids and a pool and tennis courts that is accessible to all.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Argan oil, rugs, etc.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
People go on and on about the weather -- which is nice enough. It's mostly mild and can be very sunny for days. Summers are hot but not too. Rain in the winter but not terrible. Casa is on the coast so there's often a good sea breeze that also serves to moderate the pollution.
10. Can you save money?
Yes, especially if you don't buy a lot of stuff.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
I wish someone had told us more about the reality of life here: getting anywhere is a slog due to the horrible traffic. Also that the dichotomy is so stark: there are slums within walking distance of nice houses, and the wealthy are quite enamored with their cars, designer clothes, and overall lifestyle and this can get a bit depressing. Forget about really walking anywhere if you live in the suburbs -- it's not that pleasant and you will get looks/receive unwanted (occasionally verbal) attention. Also: there is a stunning lack of green space. The corniche is OK-ish, but doesn't really make up for that and in the summer it's incredibly crowded and unpleasant, esp. with the horses/their refuse. Surfing is the main outdoor activity and if you run, go early in the morning along the ocean. Again -- it's OK, but not great.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
No. I think Morocco is a great country to visit but not to live. And Casablanca is not romantic in any sense of the word. I think it's important that people considering living here know that. Moroccan friends even complain about it. So.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Ideas about Casablanca's 'exotic' nature and first world status -- it's a huge, filthy, congested city with no real cultural activities to speak of and is firmly a developing country.
4. But don't forget your:
Good driving skills (drivers here are ridiculous),
5. Do you have any other comments?
I think it's really hard to summarize a place because it is always changing and people have such different experiences and expectations. For example, right now, there are some folks who love living in Casablanca and Morocco in general, and a decent amount who are pretty unhappy with their situation. It depends on what you want: if you don't mind lots of traffic and crazy drivers and don't want too many outdoor activities, you will probably be OK here. If you are hoping for a cleaner environment with good infrastructure and interesting things to do, particularly in terms of sports or parks or outdoor stuff, you will be disappointed. Traveling outside the city is great, but don't forget you will be living here a majority of the time. Of course it could always be worse, but it could also be a lot better.
