Casablanca, Morocco Report of what it's like to live there - 06/08/12
Personal Experiences from Casablanca, Morocco
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Second, I was in Japan for four years.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
NYC- easy direct flight to JFK from Casablanca, about 6 hours. Air France through Paris is nicer, but connections can be tricky to make.
3. How long have you lived here?
1 year.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Government.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Apartments close to work or villas five to seven kms away.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Comparable to the U.S. little more expensive on some items. Alcohol is widely available, but no six pack discounts -- pay by the bottle whether you get one or 24. There are a number of modern/western grocery stores, but you can get almost everything you need from a corner shop.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Pork? You can find some on the local market, but best to go to the Spanish enclaves to pick some up.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Anything you can get in the US for fast food, except Taco Bell. Tons of Italian restaurants and French ones too. Local foods are the cheapest and some of the best you can get.
5. What kinds of organic, vegetarian and allergy-friendly foods are available, such as organic produce, gluten-free products, meat substitutes for vegetarians, etc?
I think alot of the meat is "happy," as it is traditionally farmed. Monsanto and the other conglomerations haven't sunk their hooks in Morocco yet, so most of the veggies are decently organic.
6. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Ants in houses, the occasional cockroach.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
DPO for USG employees. Local mail is unreliable and expensive to send internationally.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Very cheap and high quality. I pay about $100 a month for a once-a-week cleaning and meals for 3-4 days.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There are a number of gyms, usually segregated by sex -- men get certain days, women the others.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
ATMS are widely available in Casablanca. Credit cards are becoming accepted more widely, but mostly it is a cash society. You can use cards at major chains and some high-end restaurants.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
I hear there are.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
They are, but I don't utilize them.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
French is very helpful in shopping, a little Arabic goes a long way. The more educated people speak in French or English. The less educated usually only have local Arabic. When you get outside the cities it is all local dialects. Anyone who deals with tourists will probably speak French and maybe Spanish.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
It would be very difficult for someone with disabilities. Sidewalks are broken and cluttered, trees are often planted right in the middle of the walkway. Elevators are pretty common, though always very small.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Trains are affordable and run between many major cities. They are not always on time. Definitely pay for the first class ticket and get a guarenteed seat. The back cars can be like cattle cars. Petit taxis are also cheap, but make sure the driver uses the meter or quotes you a cheap price. The grand taxis go between cities and are very cheap as well, but they pack people into them 5-6 in the back seat sometimes.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
A small one will do you best in Casablanca where the roads are tight and parking is tighter. No need for SUV or 4x4 in the city.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Pretty cheap and decently reliable. Goes out every few weeks for a bit. Use a VPN for Hulu/Netflix. Pay less than $50 a month for internet.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Pick up a local one or have your U.S. one hacked and just buy a local sim card.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No.
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
I hear there are good options.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Only for French speakers.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Western standards for men, more conservative is safer for women, but you will see everything.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Street crime is pretty prevalent -- snatch and grabs from motorcycles and robberies with knives. The criminals aren't afraid to hurt people. Some issues with soccer mobs before and after games, but the government has been cracking down on that.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Decent doctors trained in France. Private hospitals are better than public clinics.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Decent but not great. There are many allergy problems and burning trash is a frequent odor outside the city. Smoking is very prevalent and every bar/restaurant is filled with smokers.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Weather is pretty much perfect year round (highs in the 70's-80's during the day, can get down into the 30's at night in the winter, but nice during the day. This is only in Casa/Rabat though)
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
George Washington Academy currently has the blessing of USG. Casablanca American School has had a rough year but is undergoing leadership changes.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Limited at the international schools. More at GWA.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Many Europeans and lots of tourists.
2. Morale among expats:
Pretty high I would say. Traffic tends to get people in Casa down.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Plenty of good restaurants, bars, clubs if that is your thing. Beaches, tours to different cities. If you have a house with a yard or at least a deck you can BBQ.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
All of them. Plenty to do for families and couples and a vibrant singles scene as well.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Technically homosexuality is illegal, but there does seem to be a slight gay community. Other cities (Marrakech) are probably more friendly.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Definitely a bit of prejudice towards women. It is common to see groups of men verbally harassing women they see walking. The women just ignore and go on their way.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
A desert trek, exploring the markets in Marrakech and Fez, spending some time in Chefchauoen.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
The beaches -- nicer the further you get away from Casa. There are close decent ones like to Dar Bouaza, the "habbous" is great for picking up rugs, crafts, olives, olive oil, going to cafes for excellent coffee and just to hang out, the water park is pretty fun. There is golf, surfing, and more chances to play soccer than you could ever believe.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Rugs for sure. Many other handicrafts like mirrors, wood work, Argan oil.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Getting out of Casablanca to see the beautiful country and more traditional cities. The amazing handcrafts and markets (everything is cheaper and available in Casablanca). A great highway system throughout the country. Low cost of living, cheap and great domestic help, great food. Cheap flights to Europe. Surfing and beaches.
11. Can you save money?
Definitely possible, even with traveling around and experiencing a lot. Just avoid the high end clubs/restaurants.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Definitely.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Ideas that Morocco is a first-world nation. For the majority of Moroccans it is a third-world nation and there is evidence of that everywhere. Enough first-world influence sneaks through to fool people there to visit, but if you come to live, you will see behind the facade.
3. But don't forget your:
Sunscreen, sunglasses, winter clothes, if you plan an overnight in the desert, sense of adventure.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
