Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia Report of what it's like to live there - 04/12/25
Personal Experiences from Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No. I've also lived in Eastern Europe, Central Asia, SE Asia, and Western Europe.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
SE United States. Over 24 hours door to door. Through Seoul to Atlanta. I recommend an overnight in Seoul if traveling with family. It's not a particularly arduous journey, but it's long.
3. How long have you lived here?
About nine months.
4. What years did you live here?
2024-2026.
5. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Embassy.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
High rise apartments and compound. Both have their advantages/disadvantages. The apartment complexes are attached to malls with groceries and all the essentials. The complex formerly known as the Shangri-La is connected to the ritziest mall in Mongolia. The Star Apartments (where we are) are an oasis of green (well actually brown for a substantial portion of the year) space in a city sorely lacking in it. It's great for kids and has a decent community center for a variety of events and well-appointed gym with saunas.
Housing sizes are adequate but not super spacious. Interior storage is a bit limited compared to some places I've served. The high rises have underground parking and some of the Star units have there own garage. The rest have shared covered parking and there is adequate outside parking in the summer months in case you want to free up garage space.
Commutes by vehicle/shuttle can be as short as 15 minutes to 2 hours. Morning commutes are usually ok but the evenings are the wildcard. It says a lot that some people prefer to walk 30-40 minutes to the embassy in -30C rather than deal with the insane traffic.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Better than you'd expect. eMart (Korean) is similar to Wal Mart/Target and carries a lot of Korean, Russian, and European brands. There are a few German markets that carry a good variety and there is a decent Turkish spice shop. Carrefour has expanded its number of outlets lately. I can't really think of anything you can't find here, although I can't guarantee a broad selection of options
You'd be surprised by the variety of fresh fruit and vegetables available, even in the dead of winter. They tend to be of decent quality. Sea buckthorn is quite common here. Meat is, of course, a staple here and you can visit any number of butchers, have it delivered, or grab it from the grocery store. If you're into grass-fed beef, you'll love Mongolia.
Alcohol is widely (perhaps too widely) available here. There are a couple local beer brands, some bigger brands from Europe, and a handful of craft brews (from Australia, I believe). The wine selection is surprisingly robust and pricing doesn't seem too different from the US. Hard spirits are in abundance and you can even pick up a small bottle at the local CU or GS25 (7/11 equivalents).
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Maybe a little extra olive oil or peanut butter. You can find both here but quality can be iffy. Also maybe certain spices, sauces, etc from regional cuisines (Latin American, African, Indian, SE Asian).
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
There are a surprising variety of restaurants in UB. Outside of Mongolian, Korean tends to be the most common followed by Japanese. There are some decent burger places and a great chain of Indian restaurants. You can find Peruvian, Tibetan, Italian, German...No McDonalds, but KFC and Burger King are here and Subway recently entered the market.
Food delivery is available but we've never tried it so I can't speak to that.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Not really. Mosquitos can be quite annoying in summer through.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
There's a DPO. It usually takes from 2 to 4 weeks for anything to arrive and things sometimes get "lost" according to Amazon only to show up in a day or two.
I've never had any reason to use the local postal service.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
People often hire nannies, cleaners, and drivers. It's not the cheapest but it's still reasonable and generally reliable.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Star and the Shang have gyms included. The Shang also has a lap pool. I believe membership fees to local gyms can be quite high comparatively.
4. Do you feel that it is safe to walk, run or hike outside? Are there areas where bike riding is possible? What is the availability and safety of outdoor space for exercising? Are these easily accessible?
In the city? not really. Sidewalks can be treacherous (falling apart) and the air is horrific, especially in winter. Just as it's now staring to thaw I am seeing people out running but it's just too cold for a huge chunk of the year. Icy sidewalks aren't as bad as some other places (mostly because snow never melts and refreezes into sheets of ice because it stays so cold) but it's still a risk.
Plenty of bikes on the sidewalks now that it's warmer. It is a bit nerve wracking walking with young kids with some of the reckless bikers and scooter riders I often see. Also, whether drivers will yield to pedestrians or not is a bit of a toss up. There have been some close calls and just walking on the sidewalk watching how some people drive here can irritate you.
5. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Yes, I've had no issue using mine and even many vendors in the Narantuul Market have portable credit card machines. No issues with ATMs.
6. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Not sure. I have heard that the Philippino community here has church services in English.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
You can get by in the city without much and a lot of people speak at least some English. That's good because Mongolian is an insanely hard and under resourced language in my opinion. I'd assume instruction would be affordable on the local market.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Definitely.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
The busses are dirt cheap but of limited reliability as far as scheduling. And they get very crowded. Taxis are hit or miss but generally safe. There is an app that almost never works for me. VIP taxi is the one folks typically go with due to reliability, it's slightly more expensive than other options but worth it. Haven't taken a train yet.
Getting to or from the airport can be a three hour plus affair depending on traffic so be aware.
2. What kind of vehicle(s) including electric ones do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, infrastructure, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car or vehicles do you advise not to bring?
Don't bring an electric vehicle here. Charging infrastructure is practically non-existent. If you are going out into the countryside, I'd recommend a capable off-road vehicle yet I see locals driving Priuses through some of the most terrifying terrain I've seen.
I wouldn't bring anything you wouldn't want dinged up. Driving here is the most cutthroat I've ever seen and the infrastructure is ridiculously inadequate for the growth the city has experienced. I drive as little as possible and even that is too much. It's just horrible.
Parts for Japanese and Korean makes should be easily obtainable. Burglary doesn't seem to be much of an issue and carjacking is nonexistent.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, it was up and running when I arrived.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
I tried GoogleFi here with mixed results so I suspended it. There are a number of dirt cheap local cell options here. I think I paid $25 or less for 6 months of the top package (unlimited) with the provider I'm with now.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
I'd assume. Several of my colleagues have dogs and cats.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
There are some embassy jobs but...
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Opportunities with children's charities are available. There seem to be a lot of opportunities to practice English with local students.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Mostly relaxed but I've seen folks dress up occasionally.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
It's pretty safe crime wise. I've heard pick pockets can be an issue. You likely will run into intoxicated people on the street, especially in the warmer months. Most are harmless but it's best to just steer clear.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Air quality in the winter first and foremost. And -40C on bearskin probably isn't that healthy.
There are a couple of modern, well appointed hospitals and it seems adequate for most routine things. I have no idea where they'd draw the line for Medevac though.
Dental care is pretty good here, and inexpensive.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Terrible in winter. UB has some of the worst winter air quality in the world due to the ger districts pumping out coal smoke. The government has been trying to lessen the impact with cleaner burning coal (long story). It's not something to play with for sure. Spring has occasional dust storms.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
Allergies aren't a huge concern I'd think here. One of the benefits of having no trees I guess.
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
The winter is VERY long. From late-September to May it can get quite frigid. On the positive side, it's predominantly sunny which can make a huge difference. Pollution and the noticeable change in peoples' moods with the seasons can wear you down as well. Add to that the expense of flights to warm locales and it can add to the "island" effect.
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Extremely cold and dry in the winter, unpredictable in spring with surprise dust storms, mild summer with downpours that can lead to flash flooding throughout the city, pleasant autumns. Not the best climate in my opinion but the cold isn't as bad as you'd imagine most of the time.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Several international schools are available. We've been happy with the French School overall. Some minor communication issues but we are really happy with the staff.
2. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
The French school has a preschool age class.
3. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Lots of activities are available. Gymnastics, karate, soccer, etc. Fairly reasonably priced as well.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
There's a fairly decent sized community although I think the numbers have declined as less expats are involved in mining. There are business people, diplomats, NGO staff, teachers, all sorts. Morale peaks in the summer for some reason.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
There are a handful of bars and expat spots. I can't speak to clubs or groups as I haven't been that socially active to be honest.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Depends. For families for small to early teen kids I'd say it's pretty good. The Star feels like an American suburb at times and the community feel is much better than at my previous post (it didn't exist). Couples and singles manage OK I suppose. I think the key is staying active and engaged in the depths of winter which the overall community does a good job of.
4. Is it easy to make friends with locals here? Are there any prejudices or any ethnic groups who might feel uncomfortable here?
Out of the many places I've been, Mongolians might be the easiest in that regard. I think as long as you have something in common, Mongolians will engage with you.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Not great I'd think. I've seen anti-gay graffiti on walls that has been there since I arrived (also some Nazi stuff). I believe there is a community but it's very rare to see open acceptance.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
I don't think there is much intra-Mongolian issues regarding race or ethnicity. Gender relations are very interesting. Women seem to be doing very well here despite lingering attitudes. I've seen studies that women are far outpacing men in many metrics and that is creating some tension I'd believe.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Trips to the countryside have been nice. It's a nice change from the cramped city. Looking forward to getting out even further this summer.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
The Buddhist temples and museums are fascinating. Take the opportunity to visit some of the more far flung spots such as Amarbayasgalant Monastery. The country really is wide open but I'd suggest a good SUV and experienced driver. You WILL get stuck otherwise.
Mongolian music and dance is amazing and there are several opportunities to experience it around town.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
There is some decent art here and a variety of souvenirs can be found at The State Department Store and other spots. Felt whatnot, leather goods, cashmere. A lot of people buy "deels" the traditional dress of Mongolia. There is a company that makes heavy duty winter deels that wouldn't be out of place in Antartica and they are very reasonable priced.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Most essentials are in walking distance and it's a surprisingly vibrant and cosmopolitan city compared to some in the region.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
How much I'd miss trees. How the capital of the most sparsely populated country on earth could feel like one of the most cramped and impatient cities I've ever lived in, especially behind the wheel. How truly vast the distances are to practically anything once you get out of the city and how truly difficult it can be to escape humanity.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Despite all the great colleagues and it not being that bad actually, probably not. It's just too damn cold for too damn long.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
flip flops, tanktops, speedos.
4. But don't forget your:
sunglasses and sunscreen, patience, carnivorous appetite.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
The Last Disco in Outer Mongolia.